THE CLOSING
EVENTS OF THE
CAMPAIGN IN
CHINA: THE
OPERATIONS IN...
Granville G. Loch
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THE
CLOSING EVENTS
OF THE
CAMPAIGN IN CHINA.
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London*:
Printed by A. Spottiswoodi,
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THE
CLOSING EVENTS
OF THE
CAMPAIGN IN CHINA:
THE
OPERATIONS IN THE YANG-TZE-KIANG ;
AND
TREATY OF NANKING.
BY
CAPT. GRANVILLE 6? LOCH,
ROT AX NAVY.
LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
MDCCCXLIII.
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DS
7S7. 5
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PREFACE.
Anxious to see China and witness the operations
then proceeding there, I took the opportunity that
offered of my return from active service in the
Mediterranean to apply in December, 1841, to the
Admiralty for leave to join the Expedition, which
was most kindly granted, and I embarked for a
passage on board H. M. S. Dido by the invitation
of her captain the Hon. H. Keppel, my old and
esteemed friend.
When we joined the force at the mouth of the
Yang-tze-kiang, I was invited by Vice* Admiral
Sir William Parker to live with him ; and I take
this opportunity to express my gratitude to him
for his unvaried kindness, as also to Sir Hugh
Gough, who permitted me to act as his extra
aide-de-camp whenever the army landed, and not
A 3
vi PREFACE.
less to Sir Henry Pottinger, who afforded me the
same opportunity that he himself possessed of
meeting and observing the Chinese authorities,
with whom we came in contact during the period
of the negotiations.
While I was with the Expedition I kept a
journal, and this volume is the result of it.
After the treaty was signed, I proceeded to Cal-
cutta in the H. C. S. Tenasserim, the vessel sent
with the despatches to Lord Ellenborough, an-
nouncing the conclusion of the war and the treaty
which had been agreed upon.
Desirous of seeing something of the British
possessions in India, I visited the three presidencies,
therefore did not reach England until the end of
March, which circumstance has delayed the publi-
cation of this book three months longer than I
could have wished.
During the period of our short stay, after the
capture of the city of Chin-kiang-foo, I had no
opportunity of examining, with any degree of ac-
curacy, its extended suburbs, or the course of the
Great Canal ; but I have been so fortunate as to
receive some valuable observations from Captain
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PREFACE.
Vll
the Hon. Fred. Grey, who was left there as senior
naval officer pending the negotiations which suc-
ceeded the treaty of Nanking : these he has kindly
pennitted me to insert, and they will be found
in the Appendix.
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CONTENTS.
CHAPTER T.
Straits of Sunda. — Equatorial changes. — The monsoons. —
Banca and Sumatra- — The Dugong. — Malay super-
stitions. — Singapore. — Population and trade of the island.
— Chinese etiquette. — Visit to the jos-house - Page 1
CHAP. TT.
Departure from Singapore. — Drumming fish. — Lema
Islands. — Hong-Kong. — Pedestrian excursion. — Chinese
reverence for the aged. — Trip to Macao. — Chinese boat-
women. — Mercenary character of the Chinese — Kid-
napping. — Portuguese settlers. — Return to Hong-Kong.
— Departure of the fleet for the scene of operations - 16
CHAP. HI.
Dismantling of the Woo-sung forts. — Chinese gallantry. —
Conduct of the peasantry. — Sir Hugh Gough. — Chinese
cannon and their inscriptions. — Town of Poushung. —
Advance inland. — Taking of Chan-hai. — Chinese tea-
gardens. — Dwarfing process. — Pawnbroking depositories.
— Communication from Elipoo. — Visits to the Arsenal
and other public buildings. — Disaffection of the popu-
lation towards the mandarin*. — Exploration of the river
Woo-sung - - - - - W>
JglC
X
CONTENTS.
CHAR TV-
Observations. — The Yang-tze-kiang. — Island of Sung*
ining - - - - - - Page 59
CHAP. V.
Surveyors1 return. — Sailing of the fleet. — Destruction of
a fort. — Pagoda of Tong-shou. — Chinese proclamation. —
Destruction of the Se-shan forts. — Capture of a fugitive.
— Ascent to a pagoda by moonlight. — Chinese fishing-
tackle - = = = = - 64
CHAP. VI.
Seung-shan, or " Silver Island." — Chinese recluse. —
Phlegethon battery. — Chin-kiang-foo. — Kin-shan, or
" Golden Island." — Fire rafts. — Visits of the Chinese. —
Inner canal. — Temple of the Dragon King. — Process
of cramping the feet. — Remains of ancient gardens of
Kwa-chou. — Chinese bridges. — Message from Elipoo. —
Palace and temples of Golden Island. — Fire rafts - 82
CHAP. VII.
Reconnoissance of enemy's position. — Siege of Chin-kiang-
foo. — Blowing in of the gate. — Rally of Tartar troops
inside the town. — Suicide of towns-people. — Chinese in-
terpreter.— Exploration of the city. — Return on board. —
Uniforms and arms of Tartars and Chinese - 101
CHAP. VIII.
Landing of provisions for garrison. — Appearance of a cap-
tured city. — Absence of birds and beasts of prey. —
Cast-iron pagoda. — Chinese plunderers. — Junks. —
Tartar secretary. — Emperor s letters. — Hollow bastion.
— Progress towards Nanking. — Chinese dinner. — First
view of Porcelain pagoda. — Great wall of Nanking. 1 It?
CONTENTS
XI
CHAP. IX.
Anchor off Nanking. — Reconnoissance of the western wall
of the city. — Report of the appointment of commis-
sioners. — Offer of ransom. — Yan-tse-shan, or Swallow's
Nest. — Sickness. — Intercepted despatch. — Correspond-
ence between the Envoy and Ke-ying. — Disembarkation
of troops. — Reconnoitring party. — Major Malcolm's
junk. — Night alarm - - - Page 132
CHAP. X.
Chinese official correspondence. — The pawnbroker of Yang-
chow. — Conferences with the deputies. — Respect paid to
the Imperial edicts. — Excursion along the banks of the
canal. — Floods. — Climate. — Thunder-storm. — The
bamboo. — First interview with Imperial Commission-
era - - - - - - I4S
CIIAP. XI.
Trip to the Dido. — Second interview with Commission-
ers - - - - - - 164
CHAP. xn.
Excursion to Nanking. — Mausoleum of the emperors of
the Ming dynasty. — Porcelain pagoda. — Description of
Nanking. — Return to the fleet. — Visit from the Im-
perial Commissioners. — Signing of the treaty - 176
CIIAP. XIII.
The Imperial Commissioners, Ke-ying, Elipoo, and New-
king. — Departure from Nanking. — Great size of Yang-
tze-kiang - - - - - - 189
Xli CONTENTS.
APPENDIX.
Imperial edicts -
Page 201
Porcelain pagoda ....
- 203
Treaty of peace -
- 206
Topography of Kiangsu -
- 208
Notes on the Imperial or Grand Canal by Capt
. Grey 225
TO THE HINDER.
The map of the Yang-tze-kiang to face page 1 .
■
i
V
THE HIV K R
from
TO THE MOUTH.
En^liah Miles.
t depth of Water is expressed, in. Fathmtvs.
i — ^ " i . i ■
Longitude
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1 20°
rnow- poo
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THE CLOSING EVENTS
OF THE
CAMPAIGN IN CHINA,
&C.
CHAPTER I.
STRAITS OF 8UNDA. — EQUATORIAL CHANGES. — THE MON-
SOONS. — BANCA AND SUMATRA. THE DUGONG. MALAY
SUPERSTITIONS. SINGAPORE. — POPULATION AND TRADE
OF THE ISLAND. — CHINESE ETIQUETTE. — VISIT TO THE
JOS-HOUSE.
Late on the evening of the 26th of April, 1842,
we rounded Java Head and entered the Straits of
Sunda, the great western entrance to the China
Sea.
Our passage so far had been prosperous; we
sailed from Plymouth Sound on the 23d of
January, and anchored in Simon's Bay on the
2l8t of March. To our surprise, we there found
Lord Saltoun and his troops. They had left
England five weeks before us, and we may attri-
bute our good fortune in overtaking them to the
light and variable winds they experienced between
2
EQUATORIAL CHANGES. chap, l
Rio de Janeiro and the Cape. They sailed the
forenoon after our arrival, and four days before
us : it remains to be seen whether we have gained
stronger and better winds since leaving the Cape
by steering a parallel latitude farther south, and
continuing it farther to the eastward than the
usual track vessels follow, or Horsburgh recom-
mends. Hitherto our daily runs have been par-
ticularly good, having accomplished a distance of
5752 miles in 31 days.
Wednesday, 21th of April — I rose before sun-
rise to enjoy a sight that is seen to greater
advantage in this climate than in any other, and
to appreciate fully the satisfactory sensation of a
ship sailing in smooth seas after an antarctic
passage.
The water was as little disturbed as an inland
lake, — only slightly rippled by a six-knot breeze,
wafting " the spicy gales of the sweet South " to
our up-turned noses. No pack of fox-hounds
were ever more anxious to sniff Reynard's tail
than we were to inhale the smell of the land.
For the last few days the winds have been
light and variable, and the temperature extremely
oppressive; to us particularly so, who only a
week before had snow upon our decks.
This is the month of change, the month in
which the easterly winds and fair weather are
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CHAP. L
THE MONSOONS.
3
ushered in by lightning and tempests, violent
tornadoes, and deluges of rain. After a short
period the heavy clouds disappear ; the atmosphere
expands; the air becomes pure and refreshing;
nature revives, and the earth is once more clad
with beautiful verdure. In September, nature
begins to droop; the breezes become light and
fitful ; the strongest are oppressed with languor ;
clouds assemble in huge masses, which, in Oc-
tober, burst forth in thunder, lightning, and
heavy squalls. These squalls frequently ripen
into gales; and thus the rainy S.W. monsoon
sets in, continuing until the sun is again within
the tropic of Cancer.
This is the climate of the islands to the south
and upon the equator. The great continent of
Asia alters the direction of these winds. The
summer monsoon of Java and Sumatra is N. E. ;
it is N. W. over China and Hindostan ; in like
manner the S. W. monsoon of the Archipelago is
the S. E. of the mainland.
During the day three canoes came off with
some unripe fruit, fowls, and paroquets; they
were manned by Malays, all ready and anxious
to take every advantage in disposing of their
commodities. The canoes are scooped from single
trees and finished in the rudest manner. It is
strange how much the natives of the South Sea
b 2
TROPICAL VEGETATION.
CHAP. I.
Islands excel in neatness and ingenuity these
people, who, in some of the useful arts, are their
superiors.
We skirted the verdant shores, which were
every where beautiful, exhibiting all the rich
variety of tropical vegetation ; — the teak, owing
a borrowed fragrance and bloom to the parasitical
plants that clung to it ; the gigantic suren, dying
within the embrace of a creeper larger than
itself; the palm and the valued cocoa nut; the
bamboo and the betel nut; the sago palm of
Amboyna, and its sister in produce the Sagurus
rumpnii; the wax and the cotton tree, and other
plants supplying every want to a lazy race ; and
in the arid spots, we learned, that the pitcher
plant, Nepenthes distillatoria, is found, with its
beautiful provision for securing and retaining
sufficient moisture for its support under an equa-
torial sun.
The famous upas, or poison tree, also flourishes
here, distinguished by its straight and stately
stem rising to the height of seventy or eighty feet ;
too noble a vegetable, one would suppose, to have
ever obtained so bad a reputation.
We were also told of that fearful valley within
which no living creature can exist ; and a story
of a poor convict, who, having escaped from
Batavia, had, in his anxiety to elude pursuit,
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chap. L BANC A AND SUMATRA.
5
overlooked the dangerous vicinity, and perished
within its fatal precincts.
At sunset we shaped our course to the north-
ward. The "Button" and the "Cap" (two
small round islands) were far astern, and Batavia,
the old queen of the East, where Chinamen pay a
tax to wear their pig-tails, far on our starboard
quarter.
30th of April — This morning we sighted the
island of Banca, and are now running between
its shores and those of Sumatra. Pirates and a
colony of Chinese tin miners are, I believe, the
only inhabitants of the former island, and have,
from long practice and industry, arrived at great
proficiency in their separate pursuits. Stretching
from north to south, we saw on our left the low
coast of Sumatra, covered by a continuous forest
to the water's edge, which affords shelter to a
greater variety of savage animals than perhaps
exists in any other country. The single and
double horned rhinoceros, the elephant, and a
tiger whose strength and ferocity are said to be
superior to those of the better known native of
Bengal, are amongst the largest. Numbers of
people are annually carried off by the latter animal ;
but still the simple natives as frequently endeavour
to propitiate them by offerings of fruit and flowers
as they do to destroy them by energetic means.
B 3
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TIIE DUGONG.
CHAP. I.
I believe no sea within the tropics contains so
large a family of Cetacea as the Eastern Archi-
pelago. Perhaps the most peculiar is the Dugong,
Its body is bulky, tapering to a broad horizontal
tail; instead of fins, it has two webbed paws,
armed with talons ; its head in shape is very pe-
culiar, and its mouth is furnished with browsing
teeth. Its food consists entirely of herbage,
which it crops at the bottom of the sea. In size
it varies from ten to twenty feet in length, and
the flesh resembles young beef, and is highly
appreciated by the Malays. The females are
strongly attached to their young, and allow them-
selves to be taken if their offspring are destroyed.
They utter sharp and plaintive cries, and are said
to shed tears, which are carefully preserved by
these most unsophisticated cut-throats.
The Malays, pre-eminently superstitious, even
amongst nations remarkable for such a tendency,
have numerous legendary stories of the wonderful
qualities of many of this tribe of fish ; they have
obtained a supernatural connection, in their simple
imaginations, with many of the sounds and ap-
pearances that arise from natural causes amid the
wild and beautiful scenery by which they are sur-
rounded. While gliding in their swift prohas
among their romantic islands, now through the
bright moonlight, and now within the deep shadows
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CHAP. I.
SINGAPORE.
7
cast by each wood and headland, every faint echo,
the flutter of a startled bird, or growl of savage
beast, even the fall of a distant paddle on the
calm sea, are not unlikely at such a moment to
acquire a mysterious import
6th of May. — For the last few days we have
been running between patches of beautiful islands
covered with fine trees, literally embedded in
dense and luxuriant underwood. Numerous
roots of huge aloes and palms, long bamboos and
branches, carried out by the currents from the
rivers of Sumatra, have been daily drifting past.
They will doubtless accumulate, as we have re-
marked, in these seas; ground in shoal water,
and form a deposit around them ; and from this
nucleus Nature will cause vegetation to extend
her territory.
Yesterday we saw for the first time two Malay
prohas full of men : I suspect they disliked our
appearance as much as a pickpocket does that of
a police-officer.
To-day we are in sight of the flag-staff close to
Singapore; and if the light air increases, shall
hear from old England before nightfall, and also,
I trust, a great deal about the Chinese war. A
steamer and five or six large ships are in sight,
and we are in a state of great expectation; it
would not be easy to describe the mingled feelings
b 4
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8
SINGAPORE.
CHAP, t
of anxiety and hope that at such a moment assail
a man.
Saturday y 1th of May. — Last night the wind
fell, and we were obliged to anchor within a few
miles of the port — a most tantalizing occurrence.
The transports we saw in the morning had to do
the same ; so the Captain sent a boat to gain in-
telligence. These four vessels contain the last of
the detachment of 5000 men despatched from
India for China. We heard of Lord Auckland's
return ; of the Ning-po business, and of the in-
creasing obstinacy of the Chinese; and Keppel
learned what justly pleased him much — that the
Dido was the first ship out of a batch of five men-
of-war that left England five, and some even six,
weeks before us.
We anchored in this fine harbour about noon
in the centre of a fleet of merchant ships.
On the crest of a round hill topping the town,
free from jungle and ornamented with nutmeg and
other trees, and covered with a compact green
sward, worthy of England, stands the governor's
handsome bungelow. At the hill's base, on the
flat and even ground in front and to the right,
extend the houses of our luxurious Eastern mer-
chants— spacious buildings, with fine Roman
Doric porticoes, and separated from each other
by inclosed gardens. Beyond these appear the
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CHAP. X.
SINGAPORE.
9
humble dwellings of the Chinese colonists skirting
the edge of the dense jungle, acres of which are
annually cleared, making way for spice plantations,
which richly repay the industrious proprietors.
The unvaried luxuriance of vegetation, although
very pleasing at first, after some time becomes tire-
some. The eye longs for a clear expanse, or the
abrupt interruption of a rugged crag. Here there
is merely a diversity of gentle hills and shallow
dales, all alike clothed with the same thick foliage.
Well-made roads now intersect the island in dif-
ferent directions ; and they, indeed, in conjunction
with every other improvement, have been planned
and executed through the indefatigable exertions
of the clever and energetic Governor, Mr. Bonham.
When the British flag was first hoisted by Sir
Stamford Raffles in 1819, the population did not
exceed 200 souls. In 1820 the numbers had in-
creased to 10,000, principally Chinese ; and now
the trade (as Lord Jocelyn has correctly stated)
is equal to that of Bombay, and the population,
consisting of Europeans, Chinese, Malays, Ben-
galees, Arabs, Buggis, and others, is nearly 30,000.
Singapore is a free port, which is a pity, for a
light harbour due would not prevent vessels from
coming to a place of such commercial importance,
and would more effectually defray the expenses of
the straits, and enable the Governor to prosecute
B 5
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10 TRADE OF SUMATRA. chap, l
many projected improvements, which, from a pau-
city of funds, he has been obliged to defer.
At day-dawn, when the sky receives its first
bright tints from the rising sun, and the morning
mist yet shrouds the marshes and hangs about
the damp verdure, the harbour is alive with boats
and resounding with the noisy hum of awakened
crowds ; — the long low canoe of the Malay, pro-
pelled by twenty or thirty paddles, each stroke
accompanied by their peculiar cry; punts, the
undoubted progeny of the mother junks, convey-
ing to the shore the Chinese mariner with his
fan and umbrella; the sanpans, with their clean
matted seats and plantain-leaf awnings, waiting
for passengers, and promiscuously manned by the
Hindoo, the Moor, the Malay or the Arab, the
wild native of Borneo or Amboyna, Madura or
the more independent and manly inhabitant of
Bali ; the unwieldy junk herself, with painted eyes,
which are presumed to guide it in safety clear of
shoals and dangers, its large masts without rig-
ging, mat sail, high-peaked stern (not unlike ours
of the fifteenth century) bedaubed with flying dra-
gons, painted devils, and proverbs, and the poop
entirely occupied by the indispensable jos, dis-
gorging scores of chattering Chinese ; boats laden
with fruit of every description, amongst which pine-
apples predoniinate, arriving from distant creeks.
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CHAP. I.
VISIT TO THE GOVERNOR.
11
ready for the morning market; and the light fish-
ing canoe, with its patient occupant, who will sit
for hours under the shade of his light grass hat,
are amongst the many novelties that attract the
attention of the stranger.
I went on shore with Captain Keppel to call
upon the Governor. We found him at his office,
a large building near the beach ; he received his
old friend Keppel most heartily. His active
duties, he says, have greatly accumulated since
the commencement of the Chinese war, and it
is lucky for the naval service that there is so
excellent a manager to supply their demands.
In the evening we relanded to dine with Mr.
Bonham. A palankin drawn by a spirited little
Timour poney, not larger than a Shetlander, con-
veyed us up the ascent at an active trot : the very
pretty approach to the house, winding round the
east side of the hill and flanked by nutmeg groves
interspersed with some fine timber, is kept in very
excellent order. White jackets and a punkar,
open doors and a free current of air, made the
temperature delightful.
The house commands a fine view of the town
and adjacent country.. The former, although built
on a marsh and surrounded by vegetation, is very
healthy, owing to the sea covering the lower
ground at every tide, and thus preventing putre-
b 6
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12 CHINESE NAVIGATION. chap, l
faction, which would inevitably ensue from the
great heat, if the water was not so regularly
renewed.
I was glad to hear that the war has not de-
stroyed the confidence of the Chinese traders, and
that the same number of junks continue to arrive,
and as richly laden as before. When it is con-
sidered how defenceless these valuable vessels are,
and that they are generally sailing within sight
of numerous little islands, separated by winding
channels, yet unsurveyed, and containing creeks
and harbours unknown to and screened from the
observation of the passing vessel, it is surprising
that so few acts of plunder are committed by the
Malays, many tribes of whom regard these seas
theirs by right of prior possession, and a black
mail exacted in their way as lawful taxation.
Such exactions they do not consider piracy, nor
do they regard them otherwise than did our old
borderers their frequent forays. We may hear
eventually of some flower of Battan, like the one
of Yarrow, displaying a crease instead of spurs on
an empty dish.
Alligators abound in every inlet ; tigers in the
jungle. It was only the other day that one of the
former capsized a canoe with its tail, and devoured
the proprietor ; and about the same time an Indian
was carried away by one of the latter while walking
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chap. L CHINESE ETIQUETTE. 13
on the road close to the town. I was informed
on good authority that upwards of forty persons
are annually destroyed by these savage beasts,
which, singular to say, did not exist on the island
of Singapore before we formed settlements there.
8th of May, — I drove through the town this
morning with Keppel. The principal proprietors
and inhabitants are Chinese: there are streets
full of Chinese blacksmiths — fine athletic fellows ;
others, of shoemakers and tailors ; and some con-
taining open booths, under canvas awnings, re-
sembling the Persian and Turkish bazaars.
I understand that our celestial subjects here
do not treat us with the same outward respect
practised by their brethren of Java towards their
more tyrannical masters, the Dutch. Here, they
never think of letting fall their tails (which, for
greater convenience, they wear twisted round
their heads) when they speak to you. In China,
such an omission is considered as great an insult
as it would be in England to enter a room with
a hat on ; in Batavia, they not only drop their
tails, but stand or squat until Mynheer passes.
What struck me particularly was to see employed
in common use the various (and to our habits
inconvenient) utensils which are in England con-
sidered mere curiosities or ornaments, as, for
instance, the small china tea-cup and cover, large
14
VISIT TO THE JOS-HOUSE. chap, l
glazed paper lantern, and porcelain stool, chop-
sticks, painted umbrella, glass cloth shirts as fine
as cambric, paper soled shoes, and china jars.
Drove to the jos-house, so well described by
Lord Jocelyn. It is built close to the sea-shore,
in the centre of the Chinese quarter of the town ;
the materials were brought from China for the pur-
pose. It is dedicated to Fo. The outer gates con-
duct to an open court, neatly tiled and surrounded
by a verandah, under which the embroidered silk
canopies of procession appropriate to the various
idols are arranged. On the beams, stone pillars,
cornices, and wood-work, insects and flowers,
birds and monsters are carved, with depth and
boldness, in every variety of grotesque form.
The corners and gable ends, curving upwards,
are surmounted by porcelain dragons with forked
and gaily coloured tails ; the roof is covered with
glazed tiles made of the same material, but of
a coarser texture, and underneath the projecting
edge, upon a white china belt, flowers and
creepers are exquisitely embossed and coloured.
In the midst of the temple, behind the high
altar, and placed between a blue and red devil,
each the size of life, sits an image of the Tien-
How, or Queen of Heaven — a most ungainly
idol. At the feet of this image are a number of
little devils, each fronted by its pot full of
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CHAP. I.
THE JOS-HOUSE.
15
incense sticks. The devotees seek for the pro-
tection of a grinning elf of sandal wood, or
endeavour to propitiate some favourite idol of
porcelain, much after the fashion and practice
among the most superstitious of the followers of
the Romish Church : as P&re Intorcetta said, it
seemed as if the Devil had run a race with the
Jesuits to China, and, having got the start of
them, had contrived these things for their mor-
tification.
16 DEPARTURE FROM SINGAPORE, chap. n.
CHAP. II.
DEPARTURE PROM SINGAPORE. DRUMMING FISH. LEMA
ISLANDS. HONG-KONG. PEDESTRIAN EXCURSION. —
CHINESE REVERENCE FOR THE AGED. — TRIP TO MACAO.
CHINESE BOAT-WOMEN. MERCENARY CHARACTER OF
THE CHINESE. — KIDNAPPING. PORTUGUESE SETTLERS.
RETURN TO HONG-KONG DEPARTURE OF THE FLEET
FOR THE SCENE OF OPERATIONS.
We sailed from Singapore on the afternoon of the
1 1th of May, leaving the Rattlesnake and Serpent,
two of our outstripped and crestfallen vanguard,
actively employed completing provisions and water.
When about five miles from the harbour, we passed
within hail of H. M. frigate Thalia, Captain C.
Hope. He, like the rest, had experienced lighter
winds by keeping a lower latitude.
In the evening we heard, for the third time
since we entered the Archipelago, an extraordinary
noise under the ship's quarters and round her
stern. It resembled the buzzing of a multitude
of bees, and caused a tremulous motion, which was
distinctly felt by placing the hand on the vessel's
side. The profound among us speculated upon
the phenomenon, and reasoned most learnedly on
every ideal probability. One conjectured that
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CHAP. n.
DRUMMING FISH.
17
we were grinding over the top shoots of a coral
forest; another, that shoals of sucking-fish had
mistaken us for a shark ; some, that it might be
caused by myriads of hissing serpents (I may
mention that yellow and black snakes are very
numerous in these seas) ; and some surmised that
we were cutting through floating spawn : but the
water was free from any phosphoric sparkle, and
notwithstanding the varieties of opinion as to its
cause, the noise was sufficiently loud to induce
the carpenter on its first occurrence to leave his
bed and sound the well.
I have since ascertained that it arose from
shoals of a large fish peculiar to these seas called
the "drumming fish." They make themselves
distinctly heard while passing under the bottom of
the ship, even at the depth of seven fathoms.
Instead of the steady S. W. monsoon, which
we had reason to expect, we encountered light
and variable winds, with rain and squalls occa-
sionally. At daylight on the 30th of May we
sighted land, and ran between two islands of the
Lema string.
The first appearance of a hostile shore must
always excite a feeling of strong interest. The
approach to China, hitherto so little known, in-
creased if possible such sensations. Every feature
and object on these conical and grass-covered
Digitized by Google
18
LEMA ISLANDS.
CHAP. II.
islands of sandstone formation, surrounded by
numerous little coves affording safe harbours for
fleets of fishing-junks, was examined with more
curiosity than its appearance or importance could
otherwise have called forth, and the mean huts
that occasionally appeared planted on the de-
clivities were peered at by at least twenty glasses,
which the quickly repeated cry of " land in
sight " brought on deck.
The scenery reminded me forcibly of that of
the N.W. coast of Scotland; and if, instead of
vessels with mat sails, painted bows, and high
trelliced sterns, there had been compact boats,
with well-set tanned canvas spread to the breeze,
the association would have been complete.
Upwards of 300 large junks passed us, standing
out to sea to pick up their night nets. They
average about twenty-five tons, and are peopled
by entire families of men, women, and children,
many of whom have never been on terra Jirma.
About noon we entered the channel of Hong-
Kong, and made our number to H. M. ship Blen-
heim, 72, Captain Sir Thomas Herbert.
We anchored in the midst of men-of-war and
transports, in a port where, a few short months
before, ships were scarcely ever seen. Along the
shore, and scattered over the breast of mountains
rising to the height of 1500 feet, were wharfs and
Digitized by Google
CHAP. II.
HONG-KONG.
19
extensive stores, forts and magazines, streets of
huts and commodious houses, a bazaar and a
market place, besides some comfortable bungelows
and handsome country-houses, belonging to the
public functionaries, built at considerable eleva-
tions, to command fresh air and a fine view. Ten
months before, when Sir Henry Pottinger first
landed, he lived in a pitched tent !
Then three small villages contained the entire
population, amounting to about 4000 ; now there
are upwards of 12,000 souls in our new town alone,
and the great difficulty is, to restrain the rapid
increase in proportion to the gradual advancement
of the colony. As much as 6000/. has been
already received during the last year from the sale
and lease of lands, and hundreds of desirable lots
are marked out, which will be eagerly purchased
at a high price when people become fully aware
that government will guarantee its powerful pro-
tection.
It has many advantages over Macao, although
there are several who advocate the superiority of
the latter place. Doubtless an old established
settlement has its benefits at first, and its closer
proximity to Canton secures a gain of time ; but
this is more than balanced by the superior and
safer anchorage of Hong-Kong, and the greater
facility we shall have in maintaining a strict
Digitized by Google
20
PEDESTRIAN EXCURSION. CHAP. n.
obedience to our rule, and greater ease in de-
fending it against attacks.
1st of June. — I left the ship at four o'clock in
the morning, with Keppel and a small party,
to attend Major C , the principal magistrate,
on an official tour of inspection throughout the
island ; we were rather late, so he had preceded
us. We missed the better path, and had to
scramble up the face of the steep and rather high
mountain, — an effort which, after our four months'
cruise, pumped all the breath out of our bodies.
Fine green fern and rich grass clothed the entire
surface, and would do capitally to fatten sheep
and cattle. When we at last reached the summit,
we could see the sea on both sides of the island,
and a beautiful and heart-stirring sight was the
bay below, in which floated our squadron, con-
taining a portion of the brave band sent to invade
the largest empire in the world.
Half way down the narrow and precipitous
valley, we saw our good friend the Major seated,
surrounded by some soldiers and Chinese servants
waiting our approach. We accordingly made the
best of our way, and found it no easy matter to
stop our way when our sea-accustomed legs had
fairly gathered impetus. I think nothing is more
painful than a rapid descent after a fagging
Digitized by Google
chap. n. REVERENCE FOE THE AGED. 21
ascent ; however, some cold tea the Major had in
readiness quickly revived us, and on we pressed
A stream, as like a Highland burn as possible,
bounded over the rocks, leaving small basins at
every turn until it reached an expanse of ground
near the bottom of the valley, where its clear
waters were turned into muddy paddy fields. The
path now wound round a tongue of land to the
left into a small dell, where there were a few
houses built in a line. The patriarch and ruler
of this community was standing foremost, ready
to receive us. This universal custom of ac-
knowledging the superiority of age has been
recognised by us throughout the island ; and it is
agreeable to see so amiable a usage in practice
among the most lawless orders of the Chinese,
which these islanders are. In this little village
they were exclusively employed in agriculture.
The road was shaded here and there by a spe-
cies of Scotch fir common in Spain and Portugal ;
shrubs of wild pomegranate, pine-apple, and the
mangoe, but in no great abundance, grew by the
sides of the several rivulets. We walked eastward
along the southern shore to Titam Bay, were it
was once proposed our port should be ; but al-
though a considerable harbour, the south-west
Monsoon raises a disagreeable swell, and might,
Digitized by Google
22
CHUCK-NI-WAN.
CHAP. II.
when it blew hard, be difficult for ships to work
out against.
At the head of this bay, the principal village,
Chuck-ni-wan, is situated, — a great resort for
fishing-junks, which are generally manned by the
most lawless ruffians. The unprotected inhabitants
frequently suffer from their depredations.
As this village was the post of importance, the
magistrate assumed all his dignity, and paraded all
his power. He marched in front ; we, the guests,
followed, and the soldiers and servants brought up
the rear. The little children stood with their
fingers in their mouths as we passed ; the men
looked stupid, and the women inquisitive; and
thus on we went. But, unfortunately, the road
was narrow ; houses to the left, the sea close at
hand to the right, and at a corner, tied by a rope
from a post to an iron ring through its nostrils,
stood a small wild mountain cow, which, as soon
as we approached, by a vigorous onset broke its
tether, and charged straight for the proper person
of the magistrate, who made the best use of his
activity for some distance, and at last, by an agile
leap over an aloe hedge, planted himself in an old
woman's garden, — the owner, I believe, of the
frantic beast, — who, losing sight of the Major's
judicial dignity, only remembered the trouble
likely to attend the recovery of her cow, and gave
Digitized by Google
chap. IL IMPROVEMENTS AT HONG-KOXG. 23
it him with the ability and heartiness of all old
women of every country, when they are inclined
to vituperate. We did not visit the elders this
time, but passed on to the bed of a mountain tor-
rent, well shaded with trees, where we found a sub-
stantial breakfast ready prepared.
After a siesta for a couple of hours, our portion
of the party shook hands with Major C ,
and followed a guide on our return home. We
ascended a sufficiently steep hill to the summit,
and here the north side presented a bank of brush-
wood descending to a level, called the " Happy
Valley," spread over with paddy fields, except
at certain spots where there were cottages sur-
rounded by indifferent gardens. A good road is
in progress of construction along the shore, and a
cut of some depth through an intervening hill is
nearly completed. We were surprised to see
wharfs and foundations for extensive storehouses
laid with a fine grey granite, and wrought with a
finish that would reflect credit upon a London
mason. They were private property.
It is the general opinion that when the mer-
chants make Hong-Kong their place of residence,
it will, being a free port, attract the shipping of
all nations, and consequently transfer the prin-
cipal trade from Macao, and the Chinese will
then become the carriers to and from Canton.
Digitized by Google
24 CHINE8E BOAT-WOMEN. chap. n.
Early on the 3d, I made one of a party that
went in the H. C. S. Hoogly to Macao. Our
course lay between islands and past headlands
not differing in feature from the Lema islands.
Upon almost every projecting promontory, fisher-
men's huts were built, and a bamboo windlass
fastened to heave up large square nets spread
upon stretchers or beams. They were worked
much upon the principle of a drawbridge; the
inner ends moored by anchors, the outer fastened
to the ropes round the windlass, which lowered
them down or hove them up at pleasure.
After a longer passage than we expected, we
sighted Macao and the shipping in the outer
roadstead. Our small draught of water enabled
us to anchor close to the shore, when we were in
an instant surrounded by squat, oval-bottomed
punts, pulled by specimens of the fair sex. The
Chinese woman utters a clacking sound peculiar
to herself, and employs her tongue with a volu-
bility and a perseverance impossible to surpass.
These jays — these unplumed paroquets — lauded
the qualities of their respective barks, and de-
preciated those of their companions, until we were
but too glad to stop their clamour by becoming
their customers.
The bay opposite the town forms a crescent ;
a handsome causeway girds the shore, and protects
Digitized by Google
MERCENARY CHARACTER OF THE CHINESE. 25
the old Hongs, governor's house, forts, stores,
and public buildings, facing the sea : a hill rises
at the back, on which are several churches and
monasteries. The Chinese dwellings cover its
southern flank.
The aspect of Macao strongly impresses the
beholder with the idea of power departed, — the
feeling so constantly associated with the appearance
of all Portuguese colonies. The Chinese exercise
a surveillance over the Portuguese highly de-
grading, and restrict their force to 300 indifferent
troops.
The lower orders were better dressed and
cleaner than I expected to find them, and withal
civil enough. I was disappointed in the shops ;
they were small, and built of wood; the lower
rooms open to, and on a level with, the streets ;
the upper are low dens, badly constructed and
very dirty.
We saw them painting representations of some
of the late actions, and tracing charts of Chusan
and the river Yang-tze-kiang from some of our
recent surveys, which will enable the Fan-kweis
to sail with safety " in their inner waters." What
will not the Chinese do for money ? They are
curious beings: with an outward placidity of
temper, and the good humour of amiable people,
they possess the hardness of heart and unforgiving
c
Digitized by Google
26
KIDNAPPING.
chap. n.
nature of the Moor. From all that I hear, as a
nation they are without virtue, deep feeling, or
dignity of character. Sir Thomas Herbert told
me, that after battering down forts and houses,
and killing hundreds at Amoy, the boats of the
Chinese were alongside his ship with supplies,
before the guns were secured, to obtain what they
prize before any good sentiment or moral obliga-
tion— profit and gain.
It is this greed for money which induces them,
for so small a bribe as three quarters of a dollar
per head, during a truce or amnesty, to kidnap
every straggler, and murder every poor sailor or
soldier whom they can entice away from camp by
fair words or deceitful promises. I grieve to say
that many atrocities have been lately perpetrated
worthy of the savage cruelty of the robber Pro-
crustes. At Ningpo a marine was kidnapped,
and for some time was treated with apparent
kindness. In a letter he wrote to a comrade, he
expressed his gratitude and surprise at their good
nature; the next day his mangled body floated
down the river, the sinews torn from the flesh,
and the ears and the eyelids cut off. About the
same time a sentinel at one of the gates stopped
two Chinamen carrying a heavy bundle slung
between them on a stick ; notwithstanding their
remonstrances, he stopped them, and discovered a
Digitized
chap. n. PORTUGUESE SETTLERS. 27
fellow soldier bound and gagged. The culprits were
seized, and sent to Hong-Kong to work in chains.
We may say that the town of Macao was first
founded in 1537, by the Portuguese, when they
erected sheds to dry some goods destined for
tribute, which had been damaged in a storm.
These sheds very soon grew into substantial
buildings, and albeit such audacious presumption
at first drew from the mandarins menaces and
threats of extermination, a well-applied bribe
soothed their ire; fortifications were raised, and
fear connived at further encroachment. They
however have never been independent of the
Chinese government; a rent paid annually con-
firmed their vassalage, and a resident mandarin
inquisitor, beside ruling the Chinese settlers, takes
cognizance of, and reports the proceedings of the
Portuguese.
In 1612 they were prohibited from building
new houses or repairing old — a corrupt enactment
which emanated from the viceroy of Canton for
the purpose of exacting an additional revenue by
the sale of special permits, and also as a warning
to the insolent and rapacious barbarians that they
must only depend upon the compassion of the
" Son of Heaven n for their support and existence.
In 1580 Macao was declared a republic by its
inhabitants. In 1582, by invitation, they ac-
C 2
Digitized by Google
28
DECLIKE OP MACAO.
chap. n.
knowledged themselves subjects of the Spanish
monarch, and continued to submit to the Spanish
rule until 1641.
In 1622, and again in 1627, the Dutch at-
tacked the town, and were each time repulsed
with severe loss.
When the Manchow Tartars captured Canton in
1650, the Portuguese again degraded their country
for the sake of gain, by bending the knee of vas-
salage to the Tartar viceroy.
The Emperor twice offered to make Macao the
general emporium of foreign commerce, and the
offer was twice refused by its short-sighted and
narrow-minded rulers, who were afraid of facili-
tating the progress of other nations to wealth
from the Chinese trade through their port. Macao
was then rich and prosperous; it began to de-
cline from that period.
Macao declared in favour of Don Miguel, and
on his accession sent him a considerable sum of
money.
This colony has never been an incumbrance to
the mother country; it has always maintained
itself, and has in several instances been able to
send presents and remittances to its kings.
The glory of Portugal in India and in China
has departed. Her flag is now rarely seen in her
few remaining ports; her languishing trade is
Digitized by Google
chap. n. RETURN TO HONG-KONG.
29
carried on in foreign ships; the best houses in
Macao are occupied by foreign merchants ; her
very existence in China is now upheld and sup-
ported by the commerce she was formerly so
anxious to suppress.
Our settlement of Hong-Kong will withdraw
the greater portion of that countenance; and
Macao, if the great merchants leave it, will cease
to be a place of importance. From us they
deserve no compassion; — we who have always
regarded them with kindness as subjects of our
ancient ally, and who have always offered them
our powerful protection in the hour of need, have
met with in return contumely, falsehood, and
broken faith. Macao is a true shoot from the old
stem.
Saturday, 4th of June. — We took our depar-
ture a little before noon (the gallant Hoogly not
being one of the fastest) to ensure our return to
Hong-Kong by sunset. By visits to China ware
stores and repositories of curiosities our purses
were more than sufficiently lightened. The first
cursory glance at the former disappointed me:
with the exception of a few large bowls and
garden seats, the shop displayed nothing but
flaunting patterns, upon indifferent china, visibly
made to order for foreign exportation. But when
the crafty old proprietor saw that we perti-
c 3
Digitized by Google
30 DEPARTURE OF THE FLEET. CHAP. IT.
naciously grasped some few samples of old Nankin
porcelain which we had ferreted out from behind
a pile of trumpery, and refused with great con-
tempt even to look at his gaudy collection, he
reluctantly produced specimens worthy of his
country's reputation.
Immediately upon our arrival at Hong-Kong,
I accompanied Keppel on board the Blenheim,
where we found the Plenipotentiary and Lord
Saltoun at dinner. Keppel received orders to
sail with his convoy at daylight next morning.
The Major-General in the Belleisle, and Sir
Henry Pottinger by steam, take their departure
two or three days after ; so we may expect instant
work.
As day broke on the 5th, the gun was fired
and signal hoisted by the senior officer, and re-
peated by us, for the convoy to weigh. Eleven
ships spread, or rather ought to have spread,
their topsails to the breeze: however, they did
so sooner than I expected, and we were on our
way with the whole of them by 7 o'clock, attended
by H. M. brig Serpent.
At first the monsoon was fresh and steady,
until, on the afternoon of the fourth day, the
wind chopped round against us, accompanied by
thick rain, which has lasted to the present day,
the 13th of June. We anchored off the Kwesan
Digitized by Google
CHAP. IL
PROGRESS OF THE FLEET.
31
Islands the night of the 11th. Yesterday we
made our number to H. M. S. Endymion, Capt.
the Hon. Frederick Grey. He left Hong-Kong
a week before us, but had been detained by con-
trary winds and the dull sailing of some of his
transports. He was waiting for two stray ships.
All the afternoon of yesterday the weather was
so thick we could scarcely see 300 yards before
us. A light air blew in fitful puffs from the
North, and the tide ran strong against us. The
atmosphere was still and oppressive, and nothing
was heard but the sound of the heavy surf on the
distant beach and the strokes of the ropes against
the masts, as the ship rolled to the seaward swell.
In such weather duty is a labour, and the tired
officer of the watch was looking with a wistful
eye at the steam rising from the good things on
the table of his mess below, when his attention
was aroused by a booming sound from the N. W.,
resembling the irregular fire of heavy artillery.
It came from the direction of Chusan, where a
mere handful of men was left to garrison the
large fortified town of Ting Hai, full of inveterate
and vindictive enemies. At intervals throughout
the afternoon, until nightfall, we fancied that the
same sound was repeated.
To-day the remainder of our convoy arrived
led by the indefatigable little Serpent. The
c 4
Digitized by Google
32
FROGRESS OP TIIE FLEET.
chap. n.
thick bank of mist rose for a period, and the fleet
tripped anchors. We anchored again in the even-
ing, the fog as thick as ever. On the 14th the
weather cleared, and we weighed with the tide
and wind both in our favour. The frigate led
the van, while the Dido whipped up the rear
under topsails. We passed Buffaloe's Nose on
our left, and traversed a winding channel between
high verdant islands, cultivated to their summits.
Embankments faced with stone were thrown
across every shallow inlet to collect the alluvial
deposit for paddy-fields, and up the slopes rising
from these there were a number of neat villages
and farm-houses, shaded by fruit trees and sur-
rounded by their little compounds. The only
vestige of timber I saw were a few firs and
groves of bamboos lining the narrow watercourses.
We observed labourers in the fields, who hardly
ceased their work to gaze upon us, nor did the
fishermen in the boats we passed evince either
fear or curiosity. Every object to us was full of
interest, and I fear I may be in consequence in-
duced to commit the unpardonable sin of pro-
lixity.
We left the southern shore of Chusan on our
right; saw a large French frigate at anchor at
Spithead, the name that has been given to the
outer roadstead, and anchored off " Just in the
Digitized by Google
CHAP. IL
THUNDER STORM.
way," a small islet in about the centre of the
North- Western Channel, and fronting the harbour
of Tihg-Hai, — distance ten miles. Captain Grey
took the Vixen steamer in to get letters, orders,
and gain intelligence. In two hours he returned,
and the commanding officers of the troops and
masters of transports repaired on board the En-
dymion to learn their final destination.
During the interim a heavy thunder-storm
accompanied with squalls sprung up, and two of
the transports' boats drifted to leeward of their
ships, and would have been driven on shore, if
one of ours had not rendered them timely assist-
ance. They were close to the reef when she
reached them, without anchors or arms, and the
crews completely exhausted. The night had set
in, and they could distinctly hear the people
speaking on shore. The Chinese had seen the
perilous position of our countrymen before it was
dark, and doubtless anticipated their capture.
However, our cutter's cable proved good, and the
three boats rode by it until the tide slackened, —
the loss of supper their only distress.
The steamer brought me letters from some
friends in the fleet. They write in high spirits :
they speak of the small but gallant force, and of
the glorious spirit of enterprise which unites both
arms of the service. They mention their onward
c 5
34
BEAUTIFUL SCENERY.
chap. n.
movement to Woo-sung, at the entrance of the
Yang-tze-kiang, a place which is said to be
strongly fortified; that is, after the Chinese
fashion, with their flanks uncovered and rear
open.
The next day we weighed with eight ships;
the Endymion with the remainder entered the
harbour of Ting-hai. The islands on onr right
were beautiful ; the little bays, receding in grace-
ful curves, were full of junks ; villages round
their shores nestling in bright foliage, and terraced
fields rising above them, interspersed with nume-
rous lanes and hedge-row trees.
We passed Chin-hai to our left, and saw two
men-of-war at anchor behind the island. The
Union Jack waved from the fort that crowned
its summit.
We anchored for the night. The next day
we sailed between thousands of nets fastened to
stakes driven in six and seven fathoms' water.
As we almost rubbed our sides against them, we
could see their bags full of fine fish.
At noon we were within five-and-forty miles
of Woo-sung, with a fresh and favourable breeze,
and fair expectation of seeing the admiral before
nightfall, and fully anticipated being in time for
the coming event, when all our hopes were dis-
]>elled by the distinctly heard sound of heavy
Digitized by Google
chap. IL AWKWARD DISASTER.
ordnance from the north-west. Our anxiety now
increased beyond endurance, and although it could
not make the ship sail faster, it stuck her on the
ground, and as in duty bound, some of our convoy
kept us in countenance. The tide, however, was
on the rise, so we soon floated and pushed on up
the river.
At five P. M. we saw the admiral's flag con-
spicuous above the masts of the smaller men-of-
war around it. The transports and store-ships
were riding in the offing, and the occasional
explosion of a magazine was the only evidence of
the recent destruction.
C G
Digitized by Google
36 PREPARATIONS FOR ACTION. chap. in.
CHAP. III.
DISMANTLING OP THE WOO-SUNO FORTS. CHINESE GAL-
LANTRY. CONDUCT OP THE PEASANTRY. SIR HUGH
GOUGH. CHINESE CANNON AND THEIR INSCRIPTIONS.
TOWN OF POU8HUNG ADVANCE INLAND. — TAKING OP
CHAN-HAI. CHINESE TEA-GARDENS. DWARFING PRO-
CESS. PAWNBROKING DEPOSITORIES. COMMUNICATION
FROM ELIPOO. VI8IT8 TO THE ARSENAL AND OTHER
PUBLIC BUILDINGS. DISAFFECTION OF THE POPULATION
TOWARDS THE MANDARINS. EXPLORATION OF THE
RIVER WOO-8UNG.
\6th June. — When we anchored, a pursy good-
natured officer came on board bursting with news,
which we were as eager to receive as he to
detail.
The night before the shallow and winding
channel was buoyed by Commanders Kellett and
Collin8on, but not without being perceived by the
Chinese, who were so confident of their power to
repel us, that when they were under their strong-
est battery they gave three derisive cheers, but
did not fire a shot.
This morning the sloops Columbine, Clio, and
Modcste, and the well-known Blonde, were towed
into position by steamers, and the admiral followed
Digitized by Google
chap. in. CHINESE GALLANTRY.
37
in his line-of-battle ship, where, in fact, many
would have thought it imprudent for a frigate
to venture.
The Chinese opened the ball, and with more
spirit and skill than they had hitherto evinced.
A brisk fire was maintained on both sides for
two hours and a half. At one battery, after the
embrasures were in ruins and almost every gun
dismounted, a Chinese stood upon the ramparts
waving a flag in the midst of the Blonde's mag-
nificent fire.
Many instances of personal bravery have lately
been observed, particularly among the mandarins.
At Chapoo one fine old officer gallantly led his
men twice to the very points of our bayonets,
manfully rallying them after each repulse, until
he fell shot through the loins. When he was
carried to the rear, an interpreter, seeing tears
streaming down his cheeks, told him not to fear —
that mercy and every kindness would be shown
him — " Mercy," he said, * I want no mercy. I
came here to fight for my Emperor, and neither
to give nor to accept mercy ; but if you wish to
gain my gratitude, and can be generous, write to
my revered sovereign, and say I fell in the front,
fighting to the last."
We repaired on board the flag-ship, and found
the adniiral in high feather, while half his offi-
Digitized by Google
38
FORTS OF WOO-SUNG.
chap. in.
cers were in a state of happy oblivion, trumpet-
ing in longitudinal postures, in their cabins and
upon lockers, after their clay's fatigue.
The forts of Woo-sung guarded the entrance
of the river of the same name. The mud ram-
parts topped the sea-wall, which is built to protect
the vast alluvial plains from the inundations of
the river. They do not exceed the height from
the water of a line-of-battle ship's main-deck
guns. They flank every winding turn of the
narrow channel, and could be made, in the hands
of experienced engineers, works as formidable as
those of Cronstadt.
The river conducts to Chan-hai, and I have
little doubt to the lake of Tai-hou, and conse-
quently is the channel of communication through
this province of Kieng-su from the two great
emporiums, the cities of Sou-tchou-foo and Hou-
tchou-foo.
On the 17th I attended the admiral on a tour
of inspection round the eastern battery and a
short distance inland. This was the side furthest
from the shipping, and consequently the least
damaged, but still the crown fort on the point,
cased round with piles, and with two and a half
feet of mud and stones jammed between, was
riddled like a sieve, and the guard-rooms and
small magazine in the centre smothered in ruins.
Digitized by Google
chap. in. CONDUCT OF THE PEASANTRY. 39
Broken gingalls, dismounted and spiked guns,
arrows, spears, matchlocks, shot, and loose powder,
besides hats and other articles of dress, were
strewed about in every direction. The carriages
of the guns were generally of the rudest de-
scription, but there were a few new ones upon an
improved principle. The gun was fastened on
a bed which traversed upon a fixed pivot in the
centre of the carriage; the breech supported,
when trained either to the right or to the left,
upon a stool.
At first the peasantry kept aloof ; but when we
sat down to luncheon they approached without
fear, at the same time intimating that the soldiers
had all run away, and that they had no connection
with them. We returned on board, leaving them
peacefully occupied in their ordinary pursuits.
The next day I landed on the other shore, and
accompanied the General-in-Chief on a tour of
inspection. He had quartered troops along the
lines, and in the two towns at their extremes, —
Poushung, facing the Yang-tze-kiang, and Woo-
sung, at an angle formed by a stream running
due west from the river Woo-sung, comprising
at least five miles of fortified lines. These the
General intended to inspect on foot ; all say, who
know him best, that few young officers in his
army can support what he frequently endures.
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40
CHINESE CANNON.
chap. in.
It must be remembered that a march of ten
miles with the thermometer 88° in the shade, and
the air dense and oppressive from recent humidity,
is not the light exercise that a ramble of twenty
miles over our own heathy hills would be to a
sportsman. I remarked, however, that, although
so prodigal of his own strength, he was anxiously
careful of that of the soldiers. Every sentry we
passed was directed to keep in the shade, and
cautioned if found unnecessarily exposing him-
self to the sun.
The scattered fragments of the recent work
were here much more considerable than on the
eastern side; several of the embrasures were liter-
ally knocked into one large gap. Parties from
the ships were employed embarking the brass
guns, some of which were of great length, and
had more metal in them than European cannon
of the same calibre ; but as they are cast muzzle
downwards, the feculence necessarily accumulates
at the breech, where the strength is most required ;
so that I apprehend the risk is greater to the
gunner than to the foe. They adopt the custom
common among many Eastern nations of naming
their guns. Some of these were stamped with
Chinese characters signifying " The robber's
judgment," " The tamer and subduer of Bar-
barians ; " and one tremendous fellow, upwards of
Digitized by Google
chap. in. TOWN OF POUSHUNG.
41
twelve feet long, was designated by the single
title of " Barbarian."
The sea-wall, along which we walked, is a
solid structure of wrought granite, with a brick,
and occasionally a mud, parapet We passed
several dead bodies, and a wounded man, who had
managed to drag himself to the edge of a canal.
A grape shot had struck him above the knee and
passed out at his hip ; the poor fellow, forgetting
we were enemies, implored our aid (a fruitless
request in his condition to one of his own country-
men). He was carried to a station, and every
attention shown him.
The town of Poushung is a square in shape,
with streets running at right angles ; those ema-
nating from the centre front the four gates of the
surrounding wall. The houses are mean hovels of
wood ; some of the large Jos temples are striking,
but built of the same material to the roofs, which
are handsomely ornamented with glazed tiles of
different colours. The habitations were entirely
deserted ; and those we gained access to presented
nothing sufficiently tempting to induce the plun-
derer to run the risk of flagellation.
On our return we met Mr. Gutzlaff the inter-
preter, who told the General he had received un-
doubted intelligence that the people of Chan-hai
were actively employed removing their valuables,
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42 ADVANCE INLAND. chap. m.
and that we should, he feared, be a day too late to
secure a ransom.
We passed the smouldering ashes of a line of
tents, and to our horror saw the roasting remains
of their former occupants, probably some of the
wounded unable to escape from the rapid con-
flagration. We visited the town of Wo-sung, em-
barked, and returned on board the Cornwallis.
It was arranged by the Commanders-in-Chief
that the force destined to advance upon the city
should be divided ; one half, including seamen and
marines, to proceed by water ; the other, under
the command of Colonel Montgomery, by land.
I determined to accompany the latter.
On the 19th, at four o' clock in the morning, I
landed on the banks of the rivulet before men-
tioned, just as the 18th Royal Irish were in the
act of crossing. The 49th, Madras Native Rifle-
men, Horse and Foot Artillery, and Sappers and
Miners, composed our force. The sky was clear,
and the air full of that delightful fragrance pecu-
liar to early morning, and the men were in high
spirits in anticipation of an inland march, — rather
a novelty to them of late.
We were en route by six o'clock, and an im-
posing sight these 2000 hardy fellows marching
in single files along the narrow path-ways must
have offered to the gaping Celestials. The country,
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chap. nr.
GENERAL SCENERY.
43
flat as Kent and Essex by the banks of the Thames,
is completely cultivated, and as beautiful as its
sameness of features will allow fertility to make
it. The flattened tops of earthen dykes between
the fields are the only roads, and these are flanked,
and here and there crossed by deep ditches, which
we passed on granite slabs, generally too narrow
for the Horse Artillery. This provoking but not
unforeseen hindrance caused some trouble and
much delay, the Sappers having frequently to fill
the ditches for the passage of the guns. We trod
drier ground as we receded from the river ; and,
besides the perpetual rice, saw fields of beans,
corn, cotton, and other plants. Farms, surrounded
by high shrub hedges, neatly interlaced with
platted bamboo, were thickly scattered over the
country. Nothing could be more rural than the
appearance of the houses, some in clusters, others
by themselves, all half hid by umbrageous in-
closures, delightful lanes of fruit-trees, and abun-
dance of wild honeysuckle and roses. Affluence
and industry were every where apparent, and a
love of neatness conspicuous from the arrangement
of the house to the tilling of the ground.
We saw crowds of peasantry in every direction ;
they climbed the trees and little knolls to obtain
a good view of us from a distance ; but when a
long survey convinced them that we were not
44
SCARCITY OF QUADRUPEDS. CHAP. m.
u frantically" disposed, they approached with con-
fidence. Our handful of men would not have been
a mouthful a-piece to the multitudes around us.
We passed two wounded men lying on a bank
dying without assistance in sight of thousands.
Unfortunately we could not afford them aid, ad-
vancing as we were through a hostile country.
We went through two villages ; the shops were
open, and the people remained in them ; the first
time such confidence had been shown towards us in
China. Strict orders were issued to touch nothing,
and to the credit of the thirsty troops be it spoken,
they were obeyed. Almost every house has its
little garden shaded by trees ; among them I re-
marked the tulip, the tallow, and the mulberry.
We flushed a pheasant or two, and I heard some
partridges, during our march. The former bird is
very plentiful throughout all Central China; at
Chusan the officers in winter quarters had excel-
lent sport.
Graves were in every field — mounds of earth,
some hollowed into vaults, others solid with the
coffin resting on the top, and covered with matting.
There appeared to be a great paucity of quad-
rupeds, although I venture to say every man in our
little army kept as sharp a look out for beasts of
the field and of the sty as for the enemy ; as the
wherewithal for dinner, to the best of our belief,
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chap. m. APPROACH TO CHAN-HAI. 45
still enjoyed the breath of Heaven. Two raffish
ponies and a water buffalo were the only animals
we saw.
At last, after a march of eleven miles, we ap-
proached a river, and had to skirt its banks for
some distance to the westward, when we came to
a bridge of five piers — single slabs of granite
spanning a space of twenty feet at least from the
shore to the first pier. These were flapped over
by others of the same length to the second, and
so on to the last, the upper slabs being in the
centre. When we had crossed the bridge, we
were in the suburbs of Chan-hai. The way to
•I
the city gates inclined to the left ; the shops along
it were partially shut, and the people in a state of
great excitement, sometimes coming in our line
of march with basins of samstchu, which they
offered to the men as an irresistible bribe, and for !;
which they got well drubbed; but the greater
proportion clustered together in stupid terror
round the tea-shops, and at the entrances of the
narrow streets. Merchants' stores, warehouses,
builders' yards, and what I took to be distilleries,
indicated our approach to a large and wealthy
city.
A soldier of the advanced guard fell back to in-
form us that we were close to the walls — formed
in close order, the advanced guard fell back,
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46
TAKING OF CHAN-HAI. chap. hi.
and on we went double quick to the closed gates.
We saw through a crevice two small guns pointed
to sweep the causeway, but not a sound was
heard. We scaled the wall by an old house, ap-
propriately placed ; found the ramparts deserted,
and saw the townspeople flying. The gates were
opened; the bugles struck up; and the troops
marched through.
After taking formal possession, we proceeded
along the ramparts to a Jos house, erected on a
bastion, and commanding a view of the river.
We saw our steamers coming up with the North
Star, Modeste, and Columbine in tow. When
within two miles of us, a small battery, which we
had unavoidably passed far to our left, opened
fire upon them. It was silenced in five minutes.
The appearance of the town, considering its
rank as a second " chop " city, disappointed me.
Certainly the shops were shut and the streets
deserted, but yet the houses were generally
shabby and insignificant, built of wood, the upper
stories projecting over the narrow streets.
The General took up his quarters in a pavilion
built on the edge of a sheet of water in the public
gardens of the Ching-hwang-mian. To convey
an adequate notion of these shall be my endeavour,
as they are so completely Chinese in taste, idea,
and execution.
Digitized by Google
chap. m. CHINESE TEA-GARDENS.
In the centre of a serpentine sheet of water,
there is a rocky island, and on it a large temple
of two stories, fitted up for the accommodation of
the wealthy public. Pillars of carved wood sup-
port the roof ; fretted groups of uncouth figures
fill up the narrow spaces ; while moveable latticed
blinds screen the occupants from the warmth of
the noonday sun. Nothing can surpass the beauty
and truth to nature of the most minutely carved
flowers and insects prodigally scattered over every
screen and cornice. This is the central and
largest temple. A number of other light aerial-
looking structures of the same form are perched
upon the corners of artificial rocky precipices, and
upon odd little islands. Light and fanciful
wooden bridges connect most of these islands, and
are thrown across the arms of the serpentine
water, so that each sequestered spot can be visited
in turn. At a certain passage of the sun, the
main temple is shaded in front by a rocky emi-
nence, the large masses of which are connected
with great art and propriety of taste, but in shape
and adjustment most studiously grotesque. Trees
and flowers and tufts of grass are sown and
planted, where art must have been taxed to the
utmost to procure them lodgment.
In another part of the gardens there is a mi-
niature wood of dwarf trees, with a dell and water-
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48
DWARFING PROCESS. chap. m.
fall ; the leaves, fruit, and blossoms of the trees
are in proportion to their size. This ingenious
science (if science it can be called), to bring it to
perfection, requires the most assiduous care and
patient watching.* A small branch of a forest
tree is deprived of a ring of bark, and the bare
place covered round with prepared unctuous
earth ; this is kept moist, and when the radicals
have pushed into the loam, the branch is separated
from the tree, and planted in a trough or porcelain
flower-pot. The pot is then filled with bog earth
manure and clay, and water is applied according
to the necessity of the plant. The branches are
repressed by cutting and burning, and bent into
shapes resembling an old forest tree; and even
to the roughness of the bark and hollow knots of
pruned and decayed branches, they are complete
in resemblance. The roughness is produced by
ants, attracted by smearing the bark with sweet
substances.
Tortuous pathways lead to the top of the ar-
tificial mountain, each turning formed with studied
art to surprise and charm, by offering at every
point fresh views and objects. Flowers and
creepers sprout out from crevices ; trees hang over
the jutting crags; small pavilions crested with
* Davis's China, p. 331.
Digitized
chap. m. PAWNBROKING DEPOSITORIES. 49
the white stork, their emblem of purity, are seen
from almost every vista, while grottos and rocky
recesses, shady bowers and labyrinths, are placed
to entrap the unwary, each with an appropriate
motto, one inviting the wanderer to repose, another
offering quiet and seclusion to the contemplative
philosopher.
Three regiments were quartered in these gar-
dens, and the rooms formed for the enjoyments
of the wealthiest were occupied by the private
soldier, and many of the most exquisite ornaments
were torn down and burnt to cook their numerous
messes. Nor could this be well avoided: they
had just entered quarters after a long march ; no
wood was at hand, and there was no time to send
parties to search for it, and fuel it was of course
necessary the men should have. Round these
fires the soldiers might be seen sitting enveloped
in silk and satin cloaks lined with rich furs, ex-
citing a blaze with embroidered fans, lawful pro*
perty taken from the Chinese caught with these
pilfered articles about them. Such loot was
easily obtained in a large Chinese town, owing to
the general practice of placing things in pawn.
These depositories are numerous, always well
stocked, and consequently the first places to be
broken into by the rabble preparatory to our
d
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50
CHINESE ROBBERS. chap. m.
assaults, and after the respectable inhabitants had
left the town.
The first thing that strikes one upon entering
a captured city is Chinese robbers, passing, like
a string of busy ants, in a continuous line, from
some large house to the city gates, heavily laden.
In this pursuit the Fokiens are the bravest of
the brave. They will bear thumping, kicking, and
maltreating in every way, but will most pertina-
ciously hold to their bundles.
I quartered upon my kind friend Colonel
Montgomery and the artillery. Their locale was
a pawnbroker's house ; the lower rooms and courts,
which we occupied, were spacious and empty, but
the upper suite of apartments was filled with
shelves and stands laden with rich stuffs. A
smaller room, set apart for the reception of gold
and silver ornaments, had been partially ransacked
of its contents. Broomsticks were in requisition
to clear our future premises of the rabble, but not
before the goods of greatest value had been ab-
stracted.
The Coolies proved themselves of keener sight
than their masters, by the capitally supplied
board we sat down to, — principally the result of
the day's forage.
When the merry laugh and hearty tone of good
fellowship were changed by my tired companions
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chap. ra. COMMUNICATION FROM ELEPOO. 51
to a nasal trumpet note, I endeavoured to excite
a proper feeling of romantic enthusiasm worthy
my novel position ; — under a Chinaman's roof, in a
city of a central province of the Celestial Empire,
honoured for the first time by the presence of
English masters ; — but it was of no avail ; pagodas
and mandarins, ships and soldiers, feasting and
fighting, images of dead and dying, and, lastly,
happy peaceful England, flitted past my drowsy
vision, until the comforter of the wretched, and
friend of the weary — sleep, overpowered me.
The next morning I sallied out to see the town,
and call upon the General-in-chief. He was in
conference with the Admiral about a letter which
a well-known character, designated by the ap-
pellation of Corporal White, had brought from
Elepoo. This petty mandarin (Corporal White)
was first known to the expedition when up the
gulf of Petchelee, off the Pei-ho. He was then
the medium of communication between Admiral
Elliot and Keshen.
We examined numerous Jos houses, some
covering a greater extent of ground than West-
minster Abbey. None possessed beauty of archi-
tectural design ; all were elaborately ornamented,
and contained rows of gilded wooden deities of
the Budha faith, three times the size of life.
D 2
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52
VISIT TO THE ARSENAL.
chap, ni
We visited a public hospital under the charge of
some priests of Budha; the wards, surrounding
an enclosed court, were full of spectres dying from
disease and recent neglect. The medical staff did
all that humane and clever men could do to
alleviate their sufferings, but they had neither
time nor remedies at hand to amend their con-
dition.
Hence we went to the Arsenal, where we found
ten pieces of flying artillery mounted on wheel-
barrows. In fact, the carriage was precisely like
a large garden barrow, with a locker before for
the shot, and a drawer between the handles con-
taining loose powder and a small shovel to load
with. Besides iron guns of various calibre, we
discovered some new brass 12-pound carronades,
modelled from one lying by their side, having on
it the crown and "G. R. 1826." With the
difference of the crown, in the place of which
there was a Chinese character, they were exact
copies. Close to them was a new circular slide
for a Paixhan gun; probably the design was
made from drawings taken by some of the Chinese
occasionally detained on board our steamers.
This is not the first instance of their talent and
expertness as copyists, and satisfies me that this
war will do them (in some respects) more good
than harm, by sharpening their wits, and will
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chap. m. DISAFFECTION OF THE PEOPLE. 53
render a second, at any future period, a much
more difficult undertaking.
Upon the approach of our fleet to Woo-sung,
the Chinese governor issued notices assuring the
people that our final destruction was at hand —
that they might rest in confident security, and
prepare festivities to welcome the glorious day on
which the "barbarian eyes" taken in the battle
would be sacrificed. Shortly before our arrival, it
appears that the mandarins had nearly "squeezed"
all the patience out of their long-enduring infe-
riors, and that in consequence the sufferers had the
audacity to complain of oppression. Our onward
movement naturally alarmed their masters, and pro-
duced these proclamations. The consequence was,
that after the forts of Woo-sung fell, the people
retaliated, and denounced the mandarins as traitors
and cowards for running away on the first ap-
proach of danger, and vowed they would never
permit them to return. My informant was Mr.
Gutzlaff, who seemed to consider this unusual
independence of sentiment a favourable omen.
We have reason to believe, from information
collected since our arrival, that the Woo-sung is
the principal river of communication to the central
country, through which the great canal passes, and
into, by various branches, its largest reservoir, the
lake of Tai-hou; that instead of the coasting produce
D 3
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EXPLORATION OF
CHAP. III.
passing directly up the Yang-tze-kiang to the
canal for distribution through the empire, the
portion destined for the inland provinces to the
southward is transported by this tributary. This
belief was further confirmed by an examination of
an old map by a French Jesuit, procured by
Major Anstruther, and which he had most inge-
niously and satisfactorily compared with a Chinese
book of maps found in our quarters.
21 st of June, — I was one of those who ac-
companied the Admiral up the Woo-sung in the
Nemesis. We were attended by two other
steamers with 400 marines on board. From
Chan-hai the river leads in a southerly direction
for twenty miles, retaining the same breadth
(which is equal to the Thames off Gravesend) and
extraordinary depth of from six to eight fathoms.
Passed two large streams on our right leading to
the towns of Sing-kong and Song-king. Their
position is marked by two pagodas of seven stories,
conspicuous above the trees. As it wound to the
S. W., distance thirty miles from the town,
we passed some forts destroyed the day before
by Captain Boucher. Opposite these, another
large river entering from the eastward (the name
of which we could not ascertain from our pressed
informants) communicates with the town of
Sing-te, which is situated on its banks ; thirty-
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chap. in. THE RIVER WOO-SUNG.
55
three miles, estimated distance, the river swept
round from the N. W., with a depth of water
sufficient to float a three-decker ; forty-five miles,
the river divided into two great streams, one ex-
tending towards the N. W., the other to the north-
ward. Three Chinese we took from separate
junks agreed that the northern is the right one to
take to enter the lake, and that it is deeper than
the other ; both of which assertions I am inclined
to doubt. As we proceeded, armlets became
numerous entering our main stream in every
direction through low swampy ground. Unfor-
tunately we could not ascertain our latitude by
the sun's altitude.
We embarked on board the Medusa, a flat-
bottomed iron steamer, and pushed up the river,
now scarcely double the vessel's breadth. After
proceeding two miles we became convinced that
we had entered a subordinate channel, which was
soon proved, by information obtained from a
hardy, intelligent-looking boatman we caught for
the purpose. We retraced our steps out of this
creek, and for about three miles down the con-
tinuation of this delta of armlets, when he pointed
out a branch to the N. N. E., which he positively
asserted led into a great lake ; so we conjectured
that we had mistaken the main branch, which pro-
bably enters the lake at its eastern extremity,
D 4
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56
EXPLORATION OF chap. m.
and had passed into a minor river that must run
Slong a portion of the N. E. shore, and is drained
by the low swampy ground of the greater part of
its waters.
Unfortunately the Admiral could not afford
time, or we might have extended our research up
the N.W. artery, which, if it leads to the lake
(and there can be little doubt of it), places at our
mercy Sou-tchou-foo, the richest manufacturing
city in the empire after Canton, and round which
we know coal and iron of excellent quality
abounds. We boarded three junks laden with
the former most useful article.
The country retained its level surface as far as
we went ; the same alluvial soil throughout ; the
whole apparently under cultivation of rice, the
staple produce of the southern half of China.
The only relief the eye experienced from the
sameness of prospect were three conical hills,
rising abruptly from the plain to the height of
about 400 feet. As these were in a parallel lati-
tude with the division of the river, we were at one
time inclined to think the lake washed their
base ; but our upward course proved this conjec-
ture extremely improbable. It strikes me that
the whole of this great flat was originally the bed
of the estuary of the Yang-tze-kiang, and that
these islands of the plain may be the apices of
chap. m.
TIIE RIVER WOO-SUNG.
57
hard strata remaining prominent after the loose
parts had been washed to a leveL
The weather was, unfortunately, extremely
unfavourable. It rained in torrents the greater
part of the day, and a lowering vapour obscured
the distant prospect. The population appeared
to be as dense here as elsewhere. Numbers of
men and some few children approached with
great confidence and more curiosity than I had
hitherto observed them evince. During the rain,
those working in the fields wore large capes of
leaves fastened together like thatch, and hats
made of the same material, with a rim as broad as
an umbrella,
I boarded a punt with Captain Troubridge ; it
contained a woman and two men, beside being
laden with bundles of rice-grass ready for re-
planting.* They seemed very glad to see us,
and appeared much amused at my companion
showing them how to plant rice, uttering " Iah
ah!" after each bundle as it was flung into an
adjoining swamp until they were all expended,
when their countenances elongated considerably.
We thought we had been doing them a favour :
* They pull up and replant their rice after it has at-
tained a certain growth.
D 5
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58 RETURN TO CHAN-HAI. chap. hi.
unfortunately, it was not the place designed for
the reception of their crop.
At 4 a. M. we were again at anchor off Chan-
hai, and embarked the troops before eight o'clock
to return down the river to the shipping. The
same day we were at anchor off Woo-sung.
Digitized by Google
CHAP. IV.
OBSERVATIONS.
59
CHAP. IV.
OBSERVATIONS. THE YANG-TZE-KIANG. ISLAND OF
SUNG-MING.
All our reinforcements have arrived: 73 sail are
now at anchor around us ; the surveyors are forty
or fifty miles to the westward buoying the pas-
sage; and we only wait their return to proceed
up the Yang-tze-kiang to Nanking, the old
capital of the Chinese empire.
I believe it is thought by some in England
that time is wasted while the operations of the
expedition are confined to the southward, and
that the final blow must be struck at Pekin,
against which city we ought in the first instance
to have proceeded. But, in considering the
chances of success of the mode of operations that
has been adopted, it should be remembered that
the. capital rose from being an obscure village in
a comparatively unfruitful country to its present
vast size and opulence only through the fostering
care of an arbitrary government, and aided by
the advantage of its being chosen for the seat of
the Imperial residence ; the crowds which flocked
d 6
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GO
OBSERVATIONS.
CHAP. IV.
to it in consequence were soon more numerous
than the entire population of Petchelee besides.
The capital thus became necessarily dependent on
distant sources for its support, and the great
canal was cut to convey the absolute necessaries
of life from the southern provinces to its numerous
inhabitants.
Such being the position of the capital, it is
certainly reasonable to hope that all the practical
objects of the war will be most quickly attained,
and that an equally impressive moral effect will
be produced, by selecting that course of action in
which we are now engaged, rather than by
making a more direct attempt on Pekin.
By striking into the heart of China by the
Yang-tze-Kiang through Keang-soo, Gan-hwuy,
and even to Ho-nan — with Nanking in our
hands, the Woo-sung and, above all, the Im-
perial canal under our control; having Sou-
chou-foo, with its riches, its iron and its coal
dependent on us, by our possession of Chap-pu
and Chan-hai, and with the power our position
on the great lines of water communication will
give us over the important branches of national
industry, the manufacture of silk at Hang-
tchou-foo, and the porcelain trade, of which
King-te-tching is the emporium — we shall
effectually have Pekin at our mercy. The go-
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CHAP. IV.
TIIE YANG-TZE-KIANG.
61
vernment cannot then continue any prolonged re-
sistance to our just demands, without incurring
the risk of disaffection through all its territories,
caused by such an interruption to trade and
industry, while it will be still more coerced by
the immediate inconvenience to which all classes
in the capital will be subjected by the deprivation
of the means of subsistence.
I therefore anticipate that such a mode of
making war will prove much more effectual than
would a barren conquest of Pekin, deserted as we
should probably find it by the court and the
wealthier classes.
All geographical surveys of China are neces-
sarily very imperfect, as is exemplified by the
great inaccuracies as to the coast line upon the
maps of our most eminent geographers, Wyld and
Arrowsmith, both of whom, I presume, have de-
rived the greater portion of their information from
maps made by the Jesuits. It is in the position
of places that they are mostly incorrect, but the
general features of the country, towns, ranges of
mountains, the source and size of rivers, and
extent of plains, seem, as far as our observations
have extended, wonderfully accurate.
The Yang-tze-kiang, one of the finest and
most navigable rivers in the world, strictly
speaking, takes its rise from the northern moun-
Digitized by Google
62
ISLAND OF SUNG-MING.
CHAP. IV.
tains of Upper Thibet, traversing a course
through that country and China Proper of 3237
miles. It runs to the southward through Thibet
under the name of Petchou; through a small
portion of Sze-chuen under that of Muh-loo-soo
and of Kinsha (" golden sanded ") ; through the
remaining portion, as also in its course through
Yun-nan, and where it again traverses parts of
Sze-chuen to the northward, which are inhabited
by the tribe of Meaou-tsze ; thence it takes the
name of Yang-tze-Kiang at the distance of
2800 miles from the sea, which length is given
in consequence by many authorities as that of the
whole river. It flows through Thibet, Sze-chuen,
Hoo-pih, a portion of Keang-se, Gan-hwuy, and
Keang-see to the ocean.
This noble river is supposed to be navigable to
the borders of the empire. It is broad, deep, and
sometimes very rapid; islands rise from its ex-
tensive bed, and are amongst the most fertile and
densely populated portions of the empire. Nu-
merous tributary streams are fed by its floods, and
these are connected by canals forming a network
of water communication.
Our present anchorage off Woo-sung is opposite
the great alluvial island of Sung-ming, said to
have risen above the water since the thirteenth
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CHAP. IV.
BLOCKADE OF CANAL.
63
century, and now containing a population of
nearly two millions.
At this season of the year all the grain and
treasure are transported by the canal to the
northern provinces ; so our chiefs are most anxious
to establish a blockade of that main artery as soon
as possible, and the viceroy of Kiang-see, being
well aware of our intention, is, they say, using
every exertion to get these all-important supplies
across the river before our arrival.
« So let's away ;
Advantage feeds him fat while men delay.
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I
64 SURVEYORS' RETURN. chap. v.
CHAP. V.
SURVEYORS' RETURN. SAILING OF THE FLEET. DE-
STRUCTION OF A FORT. PAOODA OF TONG-SHOU. — CHI-
NESE PROCLAMATION. DESTRUCTION OF THE SE-SHAN
FORTS.— CAPTURE OF A FUGITIVE. ASCENT TO A PAGODA
BY MOONLIGHT. — CHINESE FISHING TACKLE.
The 5th of July was a day of eager excitement.
The steamers that had been absent with Captains
Kellett and Collinson (our two active surveyors)
had returned with the gratifying intelligence that
the channel, although in some parts intricate and
narrow, was very deep and sufficiently clear for
the largest ships to traverse.
The signal was made to prepare for sea for the
following day, and the order of sailing was issued
by the Admiral.
The army was divided into four brigades under
the command of Major-Generals Lord Saltoun,
Berkeley, Schoedde, and Brigadier Montgomery
of the Artillery. These were distributed in five
divisions, each division led and under the entire
charge of a man-of-war: Captains Boucher of
the Blonde, Hon. F. Grey of Endymion, Hon. H.
Keppel, Dido, Kingcome, Belleisle, and Kuper,
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chap. v. SAILING OF THE FLEET. 65
Calliope, were the officers appointed by the
Admiral.
It is not easy to describe the feeling of exulta-
tion which more or less animated all at the
prospect of entering as invaders into the heart of
an immense empire, where we are looked upon as
" barbarians from beyond the civilised world."
The Admiral weighed on the 6th, at day-light,
with a fair wind, the first and fourth divisions
following. The General-in-chief at the head of
the first, Lord Saltoun in the Belleisle, Captain
Kingcome leading the fourth. A distance of two
miles separated each division. We in Dido
were last — a most tantalizing position.
Grey's division passed at noon, when the wind
grew very light, and the tide began to ebb before
our turn arrived to weigh ; so we found we could
hardly stem it. The headmost ships were by this
time out of sight, when we, scarcely a league
from our former berth, were obliged to anchor;
the Blonde, in charge of the second division, on
shore, six miles ahead; one of Captain Grey's
and one of our own convoy in the same condition :
heavy rain commenced; the light air entirely
abated, and we became most anxious.
7 th of July. — The wind was fresh and foul, but
the weather very fine ; the dark thick vapoury
clouds had rolled way, and a clear, bright, dry,
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66
NATIVE TRAFFIC.
CHAP. V.
blue, speckled sky, with knotty dappled clouds high
up, appeared.
Keppel gave me his gig to pull up to the Ad-
miral. On my way, eight miles from the Dido, I
boarded the Columbine; she had just anchored
off a creek supposed to communicate with the
river Woo-sung, which poor despairing Morshead
was ordered to blockade. He was very sorry for
himself, and could not bear to look at the ships
passing. However, all cannot win lottery prizes,
and withal it was of the utmost importance that
the outlet should be guarded. I condoled with
and really felt for him, and after devouring a great
portion of a Chinese ham, in which he could not
keep me company, I shoved off and stretched over
towards Sung-ming, and ran along its shore until
the tide changed, when I bore up for the H. C. S.
Auckland at anchor in the centre of the stream.
Mr. Lay the interpreter was on board, acting
the part of a good commissary for the benefit of
the combined forces. When I arrived the ship
was surrounded by junks, each containing from two
to three water buffaloes, besides pigs and baskets
of poultry. It was difficult to determine which
were the noisiest, the pigs or their masters.
The natives of the island had been compelled
by threats to give up about eighty buffaloes — a
forced but not an unjust exaction, as they received
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CHAP. V.
HARVEY POINT.
in payment from eight to ten dollars per head,
besides the benefit of our future protection. At
the same time I have no doubt that this necessary
demand on our part caused them a temporary in-
convenience, as, from the evident marks of the
yoke the animals bore, they must have been used
for agricultural purposes.
At half past eight P. M. the tide slackened, and
I proceeded up the river in my boat. I plainly
saw the Cornwallis at sunset at anchor about
seven miles ahead off Harvey Point — the western
extremity of the island, named after poor Harvey,
a midshipman of Captain Bethune's ship the Con-
way. He was killed two years before, while
employed upon a survey.
A sharp pull placed me by eleven o'clock on
the flag-ship's quarter-deck, much to the surprise
of the officer of the watch, who for some time
was at a loss to account for my nocturnal ap-
pearance.
8 th of July, — I was up early, and found the
Admiral already on deck ; he welcomed me most
kindly. Weighed with a fair breeze at seven
o'clock, all the divisions in sight coming up in
famous style. Under the pilotage of Captain
Kellet we ran up five-and-twenty miles without a
stoppage, generally keeping the northern shore on
board. Where the river shoaled much towards
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G8
PAGODA OF TONG-SHOU.
CHAP. V.
the centre, or where the course was winding and
irregular, the surveyors had moored Chinese
sanpans for beacons. Some of these had been
swept away by the stream, or cut adrift ; but they
knew the various bearings, and we passed on
without detention or mishap.
The country continues a low and level flat,
with occasional exceptions, at long intervals, of a
few cone-shaped hills, jutting up without the pre-
lude of undulating ground or change of feature.
We anchored opposite one of these, on the south
bank close to the shore, and sent an armed party
under the command of the first lieutenant, accom-
panied by Mr. Gutzlaff, to destroy a small fort
even with the water and backed by the rising
ground. The garrison of the fort absconded
before our men entered, leaving behind them a
few old iron guns, besides some brass ones of more
modern construction. The former were destroyed
and the latter shipped.
We saw between the trees the ancient and pic-
turesque pagoda of the third-class city of Tong-
shou ; the town itself lies in a hollow surrounded
by some fine old timber; the dilapidated tower
marks its site from the river view.
9th of July. — We weighed about one P. M., the
channel irregular and difficult, but had the satis-
faction of seeing our magnificent line of ships
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chap. v. PROGRESS OP THE FLEET
69
wind through in safety. It must have been
a grand, and to use a Chinese term, " awe-
inspiring " sight to the dense crowds everywhere
lining the banks — this gallant fleet stretching
along their fertile shores as far as the eye could
reach, their light upper sails reflecting the bright
sun over the tops of the tallest trees, and thread-
ing their way past dangers for the first time
without a stoppage, sometimes within a stone's
throw of the shore, at others in the centre of the
stream, where the current runs the strongest.
This struck them with astonishment. At the
commencement of the floods (the present period)
they do not think the upward passage in their
largest junks practicable; so generally transfer
their cargoes to smaller vessels, able from their
lesser draught to skirt the shore and take advan-
tage of the eddies.
10th of July. — We remained at anchor the
greater portion of the day, waiting the return of
our indefatigable pilot-fish, the two small steamers.
In the evening we weighed, and ran on till
sunset.
llth of July. — We were under all sail before
breakfast. After a few miles ascent the south
shore varied from the hitherto tame unchanging
prospect to a diversity of abrupt hills. On the sum-
mit of one which we passed we observed a square
70
THE PAGODA IIILLS.
CHAP. V.
tower with a peaked roof, resembling much our
copies from those of the Flemings. I fancy it
must be intended for a watch-tower, a structure
in common use ; but as far as my observation
has extended, this stands single in originality.
In a valley behind the hill we saw a pagoda of
seven stories ; opposite to it on the northern bank
are two remarkable hillocks, on which there are
towers. These we named the Pagoda Hills. They
offer excellent landmarks to assist the navigation
of the river. We passed them rapidly, and an-
chored in the evening.
The river here is five miles broad at least, the
channel from nine to twelve fathoms deep, in
some spots even upwards of twenty fathoms.
The country continues verdant and abundantly
populous; creeks and canals numerous, that
have their entrances concealed by water-flags,
which bind miles of shore, and protect the
embankments from the rush of the passing
current.
12th. — Weighed in the forenoon, and with the
wind N. E. ran up a portion of the river. Our
calculation, made from our uncertain chart, placed
us only fifteen miles from the great canal ; the
information gleaned from the peasantry, forty
miles.
lZth. — The current here is much more rapid,
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chap. v. FEIENDLINESS OF THE NATIVES. 7 1
still varying slightly at the periods of rise and
fall of tide ; but even at the slowest, rolling on-
wards four miles an hour.
The river has narrowed to about 4000 feet ;
the reaches are also shorter, and in one or two
spots, the spits and shoals off the convex shore jut
out with steep sides into the deep water, sometimes
shoaling in a ship's breadth from seven fathoms to
a few feet.
Two small steamers were always kept about
four points upon the bows of the flag-ship, and the
Modeste, Captain Watson, half a mile a-head, to
lead the way and signalise the soundings. She
upon one occasion shoaled her water in about
her own length, from, I think, eight fathoms to
fifteen feet, and had to throw all aback to save
herself (which she did in admirable style), drop-
ping a buoy to mark the spot as she again made
The steamers are up the river surveying, so we
remain at anchor. Sent boats on shore for vege-
tables. They found the people very friendly;
willing to supply our few wants, and anxious to
show every civility. Sanpans came off with some
fish caught in suspension-nets, seen at almost
every league along the river's banks. They
averaged about six pounds in weight, were some-
thing of the shape of the salmon, but had yellow
72
CHINESE PROCLAMATION.
CHAP. v.
tails, and were covered with larger scales than our
northern fish.
The party returned on board loaded with sup-
plies. They had read a proclamation stuck against
the principal house of the village. It mentioned
our victories, and hinted at the possibility of our
ascent up their great river; in the event of which
occurring, the people were implored to remain in
their houses, and not to leave the country exposed
to the inroads of banditti ; it stated that we (the
English) had always shown ourselves anxious to
conciliate the peasantry, and consequently would
not injure them, nor allow the robbers to commit
depredations, if they remained. This single docu-
ment is of itself, I think, evidence sufficient to
lead to the conclusion that the Emperor will never
again have the inclination to command, allowing
he may have the power to compel, his subjects to
retire inland, and thus meet an invading enemy
by passive resistance. It would expose his richest
provinces to be plundered by native robbers, —
the evil, above all others, he has the greatest
reason to dread.
On the 14th the steamers returned. They had
seen the pagoda of Chin-kiang-foo, the wealthy
city and Tartar stronghold, situated off the south
mouth of the great canal. They had been fired
at from a fort upon the hill of Se-shan, a high and
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>
chap. v. DESTRUCTION OF THE FORTS. 73
bold eminence, which we could just see seven
miles before us.
Weighed at nine, A. M., and with a commanding
breeze stemmed the current rapidly; the water deep,
the river wide, and the scenery rich and smiling.
The winding of the river kept the approach to
Se-shan from being very apparent for some time ;
but when we rounded the last elbow, we saw it in
full view descending precipitously into the river.
The Admiral summoned us to an early dinner,
to be in readiness for work by the time it was
finished. At four o'clock we were close to the
hill, which in shape is rather peculiar. It rises
abruptly 400 feet from the plain on one side, and
from the river on the other, sloping to a valley
which divides its centre. At the bottom, and on
the face of this hollow, two batteries were erected ;
a partial fire commenced from each of these upon
the steamers and leading sloops. The Modeste was
ordered to commence action, which she no sooner
did than away the garrison scampered, throwing
their uniforms off as the ascent up the hill grew
pressing, their movements occasionally accele-
rated by a few 32-pounders making ricochets
after them.
I landed with the storming party sent to take
possession, blow up the powder, disable the guns,
and destroy the forts. We found a great deal of
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74
VIEW FROM THE HILL.
CHAP. V.
loose powder lying about covered by temporary
sheds and in boxes half buried at the rear of the
batteries, besides shot, gingals, matchlocks, bows
and arrows, and other munitions of war. In the
houses we found some hot messes of rice and
vegetables, and several ponies, which the soldiers
had left in their haste to effect their escape.
Leaving the work of destruction to proceed, I
ascended a narrow ridge leading to the top of the
hill, — a desperate fag, considering the great heat,
and one I had not anticipated while looking up at
the winding path from below ; but the extensive
prospect seen from the summit spread out around
would have amply repaid me a much greater ex-
ertion. Inland, towards the S. E., this detached
cluster of hills broke into undulating country
clothed with verdure, and fir plantations bordered
small lakes confined in natural basins. Extending
my view beyond, I saw the windings of the
vast river we had ascended ; our ships were still
scattered over its broad surface, the sternmost
divisions of the fleet coming up under all sail. To
the other side I turned with yet greater interest ;
there the land in the foreground continued a low
and swampy flat, leaving it difficult at a little
distance to determine which of the several broad
waters, winding in serpentine channels through the
country, was the main branch. I looked down
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chap. v. CAPTURE OF A FUGITIVE.
75
upon innumerable square sheets of water, separated
from each other by narrow mounds of earth ; they
covered the surface of what we knew to be arable
land, but which more closely resembled a vast lake,
intersected by many causeways. Willow trees
grew along their sides, and here and there small
patches, somewhat higher than the common sur-
face, supported cottages and farm sheds. Beyond
this again, towards the west, the pagoda of Chin-
kiang-foo was observable ; it is built on a slight
eminence eight or ten miles in advance, by the
river's course, from where I stood. The sun had
set some time ; the mists rose from the marshes,
until it became the only object in the distant
view.
I was not alone. Lieut. James Fitzjames had
gained the summit before me, and I found him,
when I arrived, sitting upon a granite rock,
quite out of breath after his ascent His cox-
swain, who had followed him at a slower pace,
descried a martial hero under a bush, whom he
captured and dragged up by his pig-tail. I verily
believe the poor wretch thought we were going to
eat him, which supposition said little for his esti-
mation of our good taste. Had he been a firm,
sleek, clean, and portly gentleman, it would have
been another thing; but this was a poor devil
E 2
76 EXPLOSION AT THE BARRACKS. chap. v.
whose flesh had left the bones from the constant
use of opium.
Our further admiration of the prospect was
interrupted by an explosion: the barracks and
houses were all on fire, and our party in the boats
waving to us to return ; so we had to descend at a
pace which did not suit our companion the prisoner,
who fell upon his back and resigned himself to
despair. Fortunately the descent was steep, al-
though perhaps somewhat rough ; so down he went
in a sitting posture between Fitzjames and his
coxswain, and reached the bottom in safety ; but,
I shrewdly suspect, with the loss of more than a
tailor could replace.
\bth of July, — We remained at anchor all day,
waiting for the surveying officers, who were up
the river. We heard the sound of cannon ; the
steamers returned in the evening, and informed
us that they had been fired upon from a masked
battery placed to guard the passage, between the
island of Seung-shan and the S.W. shore. The
Phlegethon silenced their fire without loss on her
part, and dismounted some guns; but did not
destroy them, as it was contrary to the Admiral's
orders to land.
\Qth. — The wind, which had from the com-
mencement of our ascent up to the present time
blown steadily in our favour, changed during the
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CHAP. V.
ASCENT TO A PAGODA.
night to light variable airs ; so that, within ten
miles of the imperial canal, we were doomed to be
tantalized by detention. In the evening I went
on shore with Captain Watson for a walk ; the
sun was setting when we landed, and the evening
was so cool and delightful that we determined to
visit a pagoda on the summit of a hill two miles
inland. We passed round the base of Battery
Hill and through a prettily secluded village of
farm-houses, with their offices attached. We
found the inhabitants sitting upon stools before
their doors, eating their evening meal of rice and
fish ; they received us with good humour and ap-
parent confidence ; — (not that they had great cause
to be afraid of two unarmed gentlemen in white
jackets, attended only by a guard of two men
with muskets, and with a peasant for a guide
whom we had pressed for the occasion.)
We commenced our ascent by moonlight; it
was a rough walk, but the exercise and freshness
of the night dew was a delightful change after
the heat of the day and our recent confinement.
Our path led across two valleys, over the breast
of a steep, and round the ridge of a stony cres-
cent forming one side to a basin, at the foot of the
eminence upon which the pagoda stood. As we
fagged up a flight of broken steps, hewn from the
solid rock, and of most penitential length, the
E 3
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78 ARRIVAL AT THE JOS HOUSE. chap. v. *
old grey tower fronted us in imposing grandeur,
thrown out in prominent relief from the dark sky
by the clear moonlight. The stillness of night,
unbroken except by the sound of our own foot-
steps, might cause a superstitious imagination to
endow it with vitality, and make it appear to
swell in bulk and rock to and fro as the passing
shadows of the flying clouds obscured its surface,
like a huge giant menacing the approach of his
pigmy disturbers. Then, in the eleventh hour,
we began to think that our excursion was not the
most prudent thing we could have undertaken;
particularly as we remembered that the Jos houses
attached to pagodas are frequently used for tem-
porary barracks, and for the accommodation of
public officers and their retinues when upon a
journey. However, it was too late to recede, so
we passed through the tower, which we found
partly in ruins, to the Jos house at its other side,
and knocked at the principal door. Some time
elapsed before our summons was answered; at
last we heard whispering, and then a demand of
(I suppose) what we wanted, which our guide
answered ; but from fear that he would tell them
who we really were, and thereby effectually pre-
vent our entrance, we always stopped his mouth
after he uttered the first syllable; trusting to
Chinese curiosity for accomplishing the rest. We
Digitized by Google
CHAP. V.
CHINESE HOSPITALITY.
79
were not mistaken ; after repeated questions, and
of course most unsatisfactory replies, the door
was opened, and to the great surprise and terror
of the priests we walked in. The poor padres were
all alone, and had been some time in bed before
we made their acquaintance. They, however, had
the hospitality to offer us a mess of rice and flour,
sinimering on a slow fire, and which they gave us
to understand was constantly kept ready, day and
night, for strangers and passers by.
From the elevated and isolated position of
their hill, the view must be commanding ; we of
course could see but little through the hazy
moonshine. We gave them two dollars and de-
parted.
On the 1 7th light and variable puffs flew round
the hill of Se-shan, and made it perfectly im-
possible for the fleet to weigh, as no ship could
pass this rapid portion of the river without a
steady breeze, owing to the bottom being very
irregular, and the eddies in consequence numerous
and strong. Captain Napier and I went on board
the little steamer Medusa, generally denominated
the Cornwallis's child, in consequence of her size
and constant attendance upon the flag-ship. She
was ordered to tow the Starling up to continue
the survey ; we accordingly weighed, but had not
proceeded far when the latter vessel grounded,
E 4
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80 CHINESE FISHING-TACKLE. chap. v.
and the day was lost in attempts to get her off.
During the interim we (Napier and myself) ex-
plored sundry creeks among the bulrushes, and
discovered some old trap-nets of peculiar con-
struction : they were formed (round several strong
bamboo supports) of rushes growing from the
bottom, plaited into various recesses, with pas-
sages between each, and ending in a chamber,
like that of our stake-nets. We also surprised a
fisherman and his boy sculling a punt ; they were
using a horse-hair line made like ours, and with
hooks snooded at short distances baited with
winkles, the barb passing through holes drilled in
their shells for the purpose.
Our little vessel floated in the evening ; a severe
day's work for the men in the sun, considering the
thermometer was 92° in the shade.
18th of July. — At 4 a. m. we weighed, and,
with the schooner lashed alongside, proceeded up
the river. After we were freed, by the aid of
that precious vapour, steam, from the thraldom of
eddy winds and chow-chow water, the freshening
breeze from the old quarter induced us to cast off
and send the steamer back. Being able, from our
light draught, to keep close to the shore, out of
the strength of the current, we made famous way,
and in a short time saw the island of " Seung-
shan," at the lower end of the straight reach into
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chap. v. APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY. 81
which the south entrance of the imperial canal
opens.
As we passed onwards, the features of the
scenery to our left changed from the dead level
to an undulating country, varied by a series of
smooth surfaced hills, inclosing within their cir-
cuit plains and broad valleys. The greater portion
of these hills was clothed with long rich grass,
and had the appearance of being eminently
adapted for pasture lands; but not a flock nor
herd or single head of living animal could we see
even with the aid of our glasses.
E 5
82
SEUNG-SHAN.
CHAP. VI.
CHAP. VI.
SEUNG-SHAN, OR " SILVER ISLAND." CHINESE RECLUSE.
PHLEGETHON BATTERY. CHIN-KIANG-FOO. — KIN-SHAN,
OR e< GOLDEN ISLAND." FIRE RAFTS. VI8IT8 OF THE
CHINESE. INNER CANAL. TEMPLE OF THE DRAGON
KING. PROCESS OF CRAMPING THE FEET. REMAINS OF
ANCIENT GARDENS OF KWA-CHOU. CHINESE BRIDGES.
MESSAGE FROM ELIPOO. PALACE AND TEMPLES OF
GOLDEN ISLAND. FIRE RAFTS.
The island of Seung-shan occupies half the
width of the river, and, by obstructing the free
passage of the water, doubles the rate of current
passing its sides. In the channel to the left
great blows force themselves up from deep cavities,
followed by powerful whirlpools, formed from
the rush of water into the empty spaces. These
are sometimes of sufficient force to turn a frigate
moving under the power and weight of an eight-
knot breeze. The right-hand passage is broader,
and the current not so rapid; but then, again, the
navigable channel is narrower ; and if the wind,
which frequently blows in puffs round the island,
lulls at the critical moment, the vessel will to a
certainty be swept upon a large flat shoal under
her lee.
We got through the rapid passage after four
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CHAP. VI.
GOLDEN ISLAND.
83
attempts, — the Blonde, Modeste, and Childers
having all tried it in vain. Whirlpools caught them
when in the centre, whirled them round, and sent
them down the stream for some distance, as help-
less as boys, toy-boats in a running brook.
Seung-shan, a rocky cone with a surface soil
which nurtures luxuriant groves of tropical vege-
tation, is, like its sister, Kin-shan, or " golden
island," imperial property. Priests are the only
occupants; temples and palaces the principal
buildings, surrounded by gardens and bowers.
As we passed it slowly, we had time to observe
the massive granite terraces, decorated with large
stone monsters, and having convenient and hand-
some flights of steps descending to the water ; fine
temples placed to be seen, and yet shaded by
useful and ornamental plants ; open pavilions and
secluded summer-houses embowered amidst the
bright arbutus, which was enlivened by red-
berries and paddy birds nestling amidst its foliage,
like bunches of white blossoms.
Opposite this little paradise a plain honest rock
of reddish granite, broken into an upright cliff,
descends precipitously into the river; in the
centre of its face a round hole is neatly excavated
with a slight step before it, and some Chinese
characters marked above it. While we were
conjecturing what this singular orifice could be
E 6
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FIILEGETHON BATTERY. CHAP. VL
for, out came a figure dressed in a rusty brick-
coloured gown, and made the ko-tow most obse-
quiously. We concluded him to be a recluse
living upon charity, — a sort of Fuckeer, — common
characters in the East, not less so in China than
in India, but in this country a wiser sect, living
a less purgatorial life than those of Hindostan.
Close to his abode, on the low land at the foot
of the rocky promontory, we saw the remains of
Phlegethon battery, and the smouldering ruins of
the magazines. A party having been landed
from the Blonde to destroy the dismounted guns,
they found some brass pieces among the number,
which, as prize property, were shipped. After
traversing the narrow strait we entered the long
reach between the two islands. Over the sloping
brows of some low hills, across two valleys and a
plain beyond, we traced the high and well-built
wall of Chin-kiang-foo, with its square and
round flanking bastions. High above a con-
spicuous gate, a red and yellow flag waved, but
not a man was to be seen along the whole range
of the extensive ramparts, nor in the suburbs,
which extended to the river's edge. All appeared
to us as deserted and lone as a city of the dead.
Little did we then think that in a few days
this large, powerful, and wealthy city would in
reality be what we by chance compared it to.
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CHAP. VL
KIN-SHAX.
85
The Blonde's masts (which ship had preceded
us) were visible above the flat land forming the
bend to the N. W., and close to the upper mouth
of the canal; she was placed there to stop the
traffic until the fleet could ascend. We continued
to pass up at a rapid rate, and were soon abreast
of the island Kin-shan, bedecked with gay and
fantastic buildings. The tall golden-tipped pa-
goda, and ranges of imperial temples and palaces,
roofed with yellow and green glazed porcelain
tiles, glittered in the sun. It reminded me more
of some of those fancy pictures of enchanted
islands, than anything I had ever before seen.
It is smaller than Seung-shan (or, as we have
named it, " Silver Island "), and is a more perfect
bijou of a place, although, after all, to our English
eyes it has rather a toy-shop appearance.
When we closed the Blonde, Captain Boucher
ordered the little Starling higher up to blockade
a creek, supposed to bend round by the base of the
ridge of mountains to the south, and communicate
from thence with the canal below the city, and
again into the river above where we lay. At the
mouth of this creek we could not get bottom in
the centre with twenty fathoms ; so anchored in
ten fathoms, almost among the rushes.
After dark a large fire broke out in the direction
of the town. This set us completely on the alert,
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86
MUSQUITOES.
CHAP. VI.
as we thought it might arise from fire-rafts ; but
that idea was soon altered by its stationary po-
sition, and we became aware that the suburbs of
the city extending to the water were in flames.
Shortly after a larger conflagration flared up to
windward, which we could distinctly see by the
glare that arose from a number of junks, and which
we afterwards ascertained had been fired by native
robbers.
Napier and I boarded two junks that were at
anchor just above us. They were two peaceful
traders, the one laden with rice, the other piled
up like a floating haystack with the reeds they
use for repairing the canal banks. They were, ne-
vertheless, towed clear of our hawse, and we betook
ourselves to rest, which, however, was frequently
disturbed by the incessant attacks of the most
pertinacious mosquitoes I had ever seen or felt.
These for some time we vigorously encountered,
but at last we were vanquished by their per-
tinacity. In several instances, these disagreeable
little insects have proved a serious evil, the wounds
they inflicted having turned into bad sores upon
many of the men whose constitutions were pro-
bably affected by their salt diet.
19th of July. — I took up my quarters for a day
on board the Modcstc ; she was anchored on the
northern shore, across the mouth of the canal, and
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chap. TO VISITS OF THE CHINESE.
87
upon my arrival was surrounded by punts full
of men and vegetables, fish, bullocks, and all the
good things the country afforded. These were
intended as cum-shaw (presents) to bribe the
" illustrious eye" (as they designated Captain
Watson) to allow their private trade to continue ;
and I was much amused watching their faces of con-
temptuous astonishment when they were desired
to charge a price for every thing they brought,
as no presents of the sort would be received.
All respectably dressed persons were allowed to
come on board, and to wander about wherever they i;
pleased. They seemed particularly struck with !
the cleanliness of the ship and fittings of the
guns ; they were timid at first, but soon regained •
their self-possession, and at last became so familiar j
that they bored one, and had to be corrected
occasionally by a slight application inflicted by ;
the master-at-arms.
The Admiral arrived in the afternoon and
anchored off the town, much below where we
were lying. In the evening we determined to
attempt a passage to his ship by an inland canal,
which Captain Watson thought communicated
with a creek entering the river opposite the
Cornwallis.
We pulled up in his gig past a temple of the
Dragon King, or genius of the water element, and
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88 TEMPLE OP THE DBAGON KING. chap, rt
who, Mr. Davis says, is supposed to have the
canal in his special keeping. It is close to the
right-hand shore, and conveniently situated for
the crews of the passage boats to repair to, to
offer at the shrine of the idol propitiatory sacrifices
preparatory to crossing the river.
After we had pulled a mile we turned down
a branch to the right, and in sight of a bridge of
junks which Watson had constructed to block
up the canal above this entrance. We landed and
walked some distance along the banks ; they were
skirted by willow trees, resembling those along
the borders of several of our canals in England.
Rows of old dwellings, densely inhabited, extended
behind them. Although the dress and features of
the people are the same as those we meet upon the
coast, the variations in construction and appear-
ance of the houses, boats, the mode of propelling
them, and various other minute differences, are
very apparent The roofs are straighter, and the
material burnt or baked brick instead of wood,
while there is a more respectable and aged cast
about the public buildings, which command a
certain reverence I never could feel for the gaudy
flaunting structures of Fo-kien and Quan-tong.
Little expecting to see the strangers in their
remote creek, none of the women had removed
either from the villages or junks, which they
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chap. vi. PROCESS OF CRAMPING THE FEET. 89
had hitherto invariably done previous to our ap-
proach ; not that I think such a proceeding was ever
voluntary on their part, nor, in fact, is it in the
nature of the charming sex to possess less curi-
osity in China than in Europe. In the present
case, however, though many fair dames rather
put us out of countenance by their stedfast stare,
others were really frightened ; and I sincerely
pitied the poor creatures as they hobbled away
on their small feet, and in their haste stumbling
at every step.
God knows how this barbarous habit of cramp-
ing the feet first arose : whether from jealousy on
the part of the husbands, or merely a freak of
taste, which first became the fashion and then a
universal custom, no satisfactory explanation has
yet appeared, nor can the Chinese themselves
clearly account for its origin.
Many Chinese reprobate the habit, but yet will
not marry a woman with large feet, because the small
ones are supposed to convey the idea of delicacy
and gentility by rendering their poor owner unfit
for labour ; and while they admit the process of
dwarfing the foot to be cruel, all affirm that the
result is a decided beauty. I must confess that I
began to think, with many others, that a Chinese lady
would appear to want some peculiar grace without
the deformity of the crippled feet, — so much does
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90
THEORY OF BEAUTY
CHAP. VI.
custom guide and regulate what is commonly called
taste. How true it is that a fashion, however
absurd in itself, when once generally adopted,
must be followed by the most sedate and sapient,
or they lose the semblance of wisdom and appear
ridiculous. It is therefore not surprising that the
Chinese consider us in the latter light, as all our
habits, manners, forms, customs, appearances, and
dress are so diametrically opposite to theirs.
Habit has so much influence over that inexpli-
cable idea beauty, that many will concur in the
assumption of Sir Joshua Reynolds, " that if we
were more used to deformity than beauty, de-
formity would then lose the idea that is annexed
to it, and take that of beauty."
Perhaps his theory would be more applicable
if confined to the easy adaptation of a preposte-
rous habit, without the assumption that habit will
subvert the taste to an opposite extreme; because,
I think few associations that were distasteful when
first impressed upon the imagination could alter so
materially, as subsequently to convey the exquisite
sense of beauty. Custom may reconcile and sup-
press a disgust, but cannot exact a pleasurable
sensation without adding some other agreeable
attribute under the wing of which the original
distaste may find cover and protection.
For instance, after years of absence in tropical
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CHAP. VI.
EFFECTS OF HABIT.
91
climes, where the bright sun is rarely obscured by
stationary clouds, and where exuberant verdure
presents beauties unknown elsewhere, and where
the very softness of nature is almost in itself a
charm sufficient to render life happy ; we may ap-
proach the shores of Old England, and enter the
dense belt of atmosphere that sometimes surrounds
our country, and derive actual pleasure from the
first saturation received from a heavy fog ; by it
the depths of memory are awakened, and the in-
convenience is absorbed by the charm of the re-
membrance, which, while it lasts, will force all who
ever felt the power I speak of to acknowledge
that they would not exchange the inconvenience
for the bluest sky, — so intimately are our emo-
tions connected with and governed through the
agency of our former sensibilities.
The means taken to effect the alteration of the
women's feet in China are decidedly prejudicial
to the health, and frequently attended with fatal
consequences.
This fact was ascertained by a clever young
naval surgeon who was for some time stationed
at Chusan. It happened that during an excursion
into the country, he one day entered a house where
he found a child about eight years old very ill,
and suffering under severe hectic fever; on ex-
amination he discovered that her feet were under-
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92
CHINESE OBSTINACY. CHAP. VL
going the process of distortion ; he was informed
that she had been a year under this treatment.
Moved by pity for the little sufferer, he proceeded
to remove the bindings, and fomented the feet,
which were covered with ulcers and inflammation.
The change in shape had already commenced by
the depression of the toes. The child was much
relieved by, and evidently grateful for his treat-
ment. On taking his leave he warned the mother
that she would certainly lose her child if the bands
were replaced ; but his remonstrances were of no
avail. Whenever he returned (and this happened
frequently), he always found them on again, the
woman urging as an excuse that her daughter had
better die than remain unmarried, and that with-
out improved feet such a calamity would be her
inevitable lot. As might be expected, the child grew
worse and worse. After a longer interval than
usual, he once again revisited the house, but found
it untenanted, and a little coffin lying at the door,
in which he discovered the body of his poor young
.patient. Being a scientific man, he seized the op-
portunity of adding the feet to a collection already
commenced.
It is not customary to commence the treatment
necessary for the distortion of the feet until the
girl has reached the age of seven or eight ; were
it begun sooner, it is believed that the feet
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chap. vi. GARDENS OF KWA-CHOU.
93
would be deprived by it of all vitality, and thus
be lost entirely. The operation generally requires
from eighteen months to two years for its com-
pletion. Of course the leg below the knee shrinks
to the bone and loses all shape.
We walked along the banks for some distance
until we came to the old wall of the ancient town
of Kwa-chou, which we could distinctly trace
running at right angles from the canal towards the
north, until hid by a wild of rank shrubbery and
old fruit trees, probably the neglected remains of
the five famous gardens of Woo-yeun, many
years ago the temporary residence of the Emperor
Kien-loong. *
The wall had originally crossed the canal by
means of an arch, for on both sides portions of
it were entire, with rough extremities to the
water's edge.
This is probably the canal mentioned by (I
think) Lord Macartney, which was cut by the
Emperor Kien-loong to secure a private route to
Golden Island without having to pass by Kwa-
chou.
We were obliged to get into the boat to pass
the wall, and shortly after entered the suburbs of
another village, going close by some Jos house
• Davis's Sketches in China, vol. ii. p. «.
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94
CHINESE BRIDGES.
CHAP. YI.
and under three bridges, each of a single arch,
which were very fairly constructed; they were
supported by wedged stones, but without a centre
key-stone.
Many of the junks were full of children; I fancy,
belonging principally to single families. In these
boats, the lady, we could plainly perceive, monopo-
lised the duties of captain of the vessel, as well as
mistress of the household, even to the management
of the sails and skulls. The little urchins all ap-
peared happy, good-humoured, and old-fashioned.
As we advanced towards the river our view
became circumscribed by the flags on either hand
rising above the banks.
The country through which we this evening
passed is pleasing and picturesque, — more so, in-
deed, than any I had hitherto seen ; yet my walk
did not convey the enjoyment, the pleasant satis-
faction, that, after some slight confinement, one
over a more indifferent country has frequently
before excited in me.
Heaven knows I have no prejudice against this
umbrella race ; but, in regarding the Chinese, I
can never get rid of the association of clock-work
figures which are moved round their allotted
surface by machinery.
China is a rich and fertile empire, and crowded
with a most persevering and industrious people ;
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chap. vi. MESSAGE FROM ELIPOO.
95
but it has not the splendour and romance of the
Indies, the noble energy and science of the north
of Europe, nor does it possess the refinement
nor the luxurious climate of the south of our
Continent, where the cold is modified by the in-
tervention of mountains.
" Know'st thou the land where the lemon- trees bloom,
Where the gold orange glows 'mid the deep thicket's
gloom,
Where a wind ever soft from the blue heaven blows,
And the groves are of laurel, and myrtle, and rose ? "
Goethe's Wilhelm Meister.
We found the notorious Corporal White* on
board the Cornwallis, charged with a message
and letters from Elipoo, who expressed himself
very anxious to meet our high authorities, to
ascertain what our demands were, and to enter
upon negotiations, which he affirmed he had
ample powers to do. Sir Henry referred him to
his proclamation, which most fully explained all
he pretended ignorance of, and informed him that
when the necessary commission from the Emperor
was produced he would instantly receive the au-
thorities intrusted with it.
On our way back to the Modeste we had to pass
close to " Golden Island ; " and as the moon was
up, we landed on a marble terrace, overgrown
with weeds. It was no ordinary event to contem-
* The mandarin before referred to.
r
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96
TEMPLES OF GOLDEN ISLAND. chap, vl
plate a spot where no tradition told of western
strangers' visit ; where the brows of generations of
priests had furrowed and withered, — their e very-
thought, but those for their private interests, cen-
tred in their ruler and deity, the sovereign.
A terrace surrounds the W. and N. W. sides
of the island, and extends along the front of two
large temples, three pavilions, and the imperial
palace, now in great decay. We knocked at the
gate of the principal Jos house, and were admitted
by a priest of Fo, who, to judge from his ap-
pearance, had just risen from his slumbers ; his
dull and sleepy eye, heavy frame, and lazy step,
as he guided us through the building by the
feeble glimmer of a candle, made from the tallow
tree, denoted his inactive and unintellectual mode
of life. The light he held partially revealed the
huge gilded images, twenty and thirty feet in
height, and of every form and shape that the
fertile idolatry of Budhism has invented, ranged
round the walls with their faces to the centre
of the building, while the two grim war idols
guarding the aisle of the principal entrance, iden-
tified the temple as imperial property.
We discovered this to be the church of a large
monastery, controlled by a prior and brotherhood,
who have charge of all the sacerdotal duties of
the island, and are also responsible for the clean-
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CHAP. VI.
JOS HOUSES.
liness and order of the walks and gardens. The
back entrance is concealed from the front by an
elaborately carved screen reaching to the roof, and
supporting the image of their supreme deity. By
this door we passed into a larged paved court,
in which a handsome bronze vase or censer stood
upon a marble base ; a flight of granite steps
led from this court to a smaller temple con-
taining a single shrine, and surrounded by private
dwellings and cloisters.
The priest took us in succession over shrines
and Jos houses, scattered up the face of the island
to the top. They were connected by terraces
decorated with flowers and shrubs. At last we
descended by a wooded and serpentine pathway
to the ruinous palace, and were shown the chair
of ebony inlaid with mother-of-pearl (the only
vestige of furniture remaining) in which Kien-
loong used to sit and enjoy the balmy breezes,
" fanned by the happy spirits." The marble steps
and slabs were dislodged and broken by intruding
shrubs ; and the almost obliterated carving upon
the decayed wood-work indicated neglect and the
lapse of time since the departure of its last royal
occupant
The fairy palace and charming retreat of the
morning, like youth's first aspirations, melted, as
F
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98
FIRE RAFTS.
CHAP. VI.
many of those illusions do, upon the hard touch of
cold reality.
The three pavilions at the angles of the palace
and Jos house each contained a she-pae, — the
name of tablets erected by emperors to com-
memorate great events, or to honour the memory
of illustrious men. These marble slabs, twelve
feet in height and two in breadth, supported
perpendicularly upon the backs of marble tor-
toises, and covered with inscriptions, recorded
the visit of his Imperial Majesty, Kien-loong,
and his present of them to the island.
This diminutive spot has been the temporary
residence of two emperors and three empresses ;
but since the Manchow dynasty ascended the
throne, the visits of the sovereigns to their fertile
and more genial provinces of the centre and the
south have ceased, with the above mentioned ex-
ception; so this, with other royal abodes, has
been greatly neglected, and suffered to decay.
Early on the 20th, I went with Captain
Watson up the river to destroy some fire rafts
which we saw smoking to windward. They had
all been fired too soon; a few had burnt even
with the water's edge, and others we found
aground on shoals close to the rushes. Junks
that had been abandoned by their crews came
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CHAP. VI.
CARGO FOUND IN JUNKS
99
floating down in great numbers, and were
emptied as they passsed along, by bands of river
robbers. Those at anchor, and in our track, we
boarded, and turned the plunderers out, while
Watson dispersed his squadron of boats to collect
others at a greater distance, and conveyed them
to a creek under the safe protection of our guns.
Many were full of rice; each different quality
separately stowed in hanging bins, which were
fastened to the beams, and rested upon a plat-
form above the kelson. The most precious grain
was pressed firmly down, and the surface stamped
in several places with the impression of a large seal,
the mark of the owner, to guard against fraud
or theft. Others were laden with oil, varnish,
dried fish, samshu, oil-cake, dried sea-weed
(like our dulse), sugar, lime, bales of common
nankin cloth, besides wares and furniture of
various description. Salt, a royal monopoly, we
found in great abundance on board the largest
and better finished junks: these appear to
average about 100 tons burden, and are built
in the shape of a crescent. They float upon
the water like a willow leaf reversed, their high
projecting sterns rising forty feet above the
surface. They are built of pine, neatly put
together and smoothly planed, and their sides are
F 2
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100
JUNK MAST.
CHAP. VI.
covered with bright varnish, which the Chinese
take great pride in keeping highly polished. The
solitary mast of ninety feet and upwards, without
a shroud or stay, steps in the centre, and is
frequently a single spar.
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chap. vii. RECONNOISSANCE OF ENEMY.
101
CHAP. VII.
RECONNOISSANCE OP ENEMY'S POSITION. — 8IEOE OP CHIN-
KTANG-FOO. BLOWING IN OP THE GATE. RALLY OP
TARTAR TROOPS INSIDE THE TOWN. SUICIDE OP TOWNS-
PEOPLE. CHINESE INTERPRETER. WE EXPLORE THE
CITY. RETURN ON BOARD. UNIFORMS AND ARMS OP
TARTARS AND CHINESE.
After we returned to the ship, I accompanied
the General to the top of the pagoda on " Golden
Island," to take a reconnoissance preparatory to
the morrow's landing. We had a fine command-
ing view of the whole country over which por-
tions of our operations were likely to be carried
on. The undulating country to the southward
and westward of the city rises to a range of hills
seen running almost parallel with the river, until
intercepted and excluded from view by another
chain crossing its western extremity, and ter-
minating in a slope towards the N. E., thus
forming the entrance of an extensive valley.
Upon these latter heights we counted seventy-five
tents, pitched in two divisions, each division com-
manding an ascent, and within a mile and a half of
the S.W. angle of the city wall.
A great portion of Chin-kiang-foo was ex-
F 3
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102 SIEGE OF CH1N-KIANG-FOO. chap, m
eluded from our view by a bluff upon the main-
land opposite Golden Island. The suburbs over
the low ground to the west, and along the borders
of the canal for upwards of a mile, prettily
diversified by trees and gardens attached to the
houses, lay between the wall and us.
21 st of July. — The morning of this eventful
day on which it was destined that the proud
spirit of the Chinese government should be
humbled by the total destruction of their most
important Tartar stronghold, dawned with un-
clouded serenity, and before the sun rose, the
General Commander-in-chief, his staff, and the
right brigade, had landed and occupied the bluff
hill, above mentioned, to the westward of the
city, from the summit of which we had, while
the remainder of the troops were forming, ample
time to contemplate the magnificent panoramic
view of the city on our left, and the ground and
heights to the southward, on which the encamped
enemy were drawn up in a line behind entrench-
ments. From an eminence, we saw that they
were in greater force than either our previous
reconnoissance or the information gained by the
interpreter led us to anticipate. Looking at
their extended line, I began to suspect that the
greater portion, if not the whole, of the garrison
had, during the night, joined the camp, anxious
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chap. vn. SIEGE OF CHIN-KIANG-FOO. 103
to bear the brunt of our attack, and, by offering
a stronger resistance without, perhaps save the
city from injury. I, however, soon found this
to be a mistaken supposition.
My kind friend, Sir Hugh Gough, allowed me
to make myself useful as an extra aide-de-camp.
I landed, and was with him throughout the day in
that capacity.
It would be unnecessary in me to recapitulate
the tactics and events of an action which has
been recorded and read in every public paper ;
so I shall confine my description to the move-
ments I saw occurring round the person of the
Chief.
By the time the troops were all landed the sun
was high, and its unclouded force was felt by
many a poor fellow destined to succumb to its
power.
The first brigade, under Lord Saltoun, began
to move up the valley leading to the heights,
followed by a portion of the artillery. The
column of our men and guns presented a fine
sight as they marched up the winding valley,
at times partially hid, at times emerging from
behind the slight acclivities connected with the
heights where the Chinese were drawn up in
line, cresting their strong position, their tents
struck, and banners flying. The latter com-
f 4
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104
SIEGE OF CHIX-KIANG-FOO. chap. vn.
menced a distant fire until the Bengal volunteers,
sent to turn their right flank, charged them up
the hill, when they gave way within twenty yards
of our bayonets.
I accompanied the volunteers, and had an
opportunity of remarking a peculiar feature in
the character of the Chinese. We had to cross a
paddy field and occupy a small village under a
close and smart fire from the enemy. The
village had not been deserted: some of the
houses were closed, while the inhabitants of
others were standing in the streets, staring at us
in stupid wonder ; and, although they were
viewing a contest between foreigners and their
fellow-countrymen, and in danger themselves,
from their position, of being shot, were coolly
employed eating their bowls of rice.
The sun was too hot for a race, and, as the
Chinese ran well, I returned to the Commander-
in-chief on a mandarin's horse which I had caught.
I found the Admiral and the General sitting under
the shade of some fine palms upon a hill, the top
of which was crowned by several spacious build-
ings. They were waiting for the centre brigade
to come up to storm the town.
Our position overlooked the city wall within
fair gingal range. "We plainly saw the Tartar
soldiers on the ramparts, two or more to every
embrasure and loop-hole, anxiously watching our
chap. vn. BLOWING IN OP THE GATE.
105
movements, and waiting for an onset to open fire,
which they soon did with spirit as we moved
along a high embankment level with the wall.
Along this we continued a considerable distance
until we reached the enclosed suburbs, through
which we passed in security to within a short
distance of the western gate, connected with our
side by a bridge over the canal in front of it.
A gun was sent forward, with an advance party,
to cover Captain Pears and his Sappers, while he
blew the gate open. This gallant service was
performed in admirable style under a cross fire
from flanking bastions. The heavy, massive gates,
bound and studded with iron and propped on the
inside by many sand bags, flew in like chips, car-
ried before a sudden blast of wind, and were hurried
along the street to a considerable distance, but
without one stone or brick of the gateway arch
being displaced, the calculation was so admirable.
Our gallant fellows dashed through with a
cheer in the midst of smoke, dust, and flying rafters.
Their impetuous charge would have driven back
five times their number, but no such opposition
was met with : we found instead, the ramparts in
the possession, at one point, of General Schoedde ;
at another, of our seamen and marines, under the
command of Captain Peter Richards, who had
landed to recover some boats and guns disabled in
F 5
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106 RALLY OF TARTAR TROOPS, chap. vn.
their ascent up the canal by an unexpected and
destructive fire from an angle of the wall : at this
angle Captain Richards escaladed and repaid the
former loss with interest.
It was about mid-day when the centre brigade
joined the left upon the ramparts. Soldiers were
dropping at every step from exhaustion and ex-
cessive heat, so the General ordered a halt for a
few hours, where we then were, round the west
gate guard-house, merely sending a large detach-
ment along the ramparts to the right to occupy
the southern gate. This party had not proceeded
half a mile when they encountered a sharp and
sudden resistance from a large body of Tartars,
drawn up on an open space before some houses,
and flanked by a hedge, a ditch, and pond of
water. They planted their gingals before them ;
formed with order and steadiness, and commenced
a rapid and well directed fire, which brought
down officers and men in quick succession. Our
men, though taken somewhat by surprise, and not
one to three, fired a volley and charged down the
bank, driving all before them, but not without
obstinate resistance.
As the enemy retreated through the compounds
and narrow streets, our men were called off ; a
guard placed over the dead and wounded, and the
rest sent forward to their destination.
«
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chap. vii. SUICIDE OF TOWNSPEOPLE, 107
*
The firing brought the General up, who re-
solved, when the sun became less powerful, to
sweep the town from house to house.
As we marched along the walls I saw, what as
a novice in this description of warfare shocked me
much, old men, women, and children, cutting
each other's throats, and drowning themselves by
the dozen ; and no one either attempting or appa-
rently showing any inclination to save the poor
wretches, nor in fact regarding them with more
notice than they would a dead horse carried through
the streets of London to the kennel.
While we were resting in the south guard-house,
a Chinese Canton interpreter, who had frequently
before been the medium of communication between
the authorities of both nations, was introduced
under the escort of two soldiers: he was the
bearer of letters to our chief from the Viceroy :
they were to the old purport, requesting them to
send the ships down the river, and arrange a meet-
ing with him on shore to settle differences. Such
a modest request at such a time was exceedingly
mal-a-propos, and very nearly cost the stupid old
interpreter his life ; who, fancying himself secure
in his knowledge of our language, passed through
the gate, and was nearly shot by the sentinel for
advancing, towards the General's quarters, after
having failed in his endeavours to make himself
F 6
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108 CHINESE CANTON INTERPRETER, chap. vii.
understood. Sir Hugh was in no humour to re-
ceive him, which he, having lost but little of his
self-confidence, thought exceedingly incorrect. He
said that " Elipoo wished very much to have a
talkey outside river — no inside — and that English
very bad if they no obey."
Our reply was, (I mean that given by our in-
dividual selves, who had nothing to do with the
matter,) that * Englishman may talkey a very,
very leettle, if Chinamen pay 20,000,000, and
afterwards pay more, talkey more," and then the re-
spectable old gentleman was shown the way out.
Towards evening an advance was sounded, and
the Commander-in-chief marched with two regi-
ments towards the Tartar quarter of the town,
guided by some Chinese and Mr. GutzlafF. We
broke into many houses where we imagined sol-
diers were concealed, but met with no resistance,
nor saw any armed Tartars. Quiet and peace
seemed to reign paramount in the still evening,
while the fragrance of the flowers surrounding
almost every house calmed the strong excitement
that had possessed us throughout the day. It was
the prettiest Chinese town I had seen : the houses
were all well kept, and the interiors of many mag-
nificent; the streets well paved and clean; and
open grassy spaces and gardens gave a. grace and
airiness not usually met with in walled cities.
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chap. vn. . EXPLORE THE CITY. 109
We were guided to a large building said to be
the governor's palace. We saw that it belonged to
government by the flying dragon painted upon the
wall opposite the great entrance ; but the gates
had apparently been closed for some considerable
time : weeds were growing before them, and the
only sign of life was a wounded Tartar of great
size and strength lying under the shade of the
portico; he was dressed in the blue over shirt
with yellow trimmings, said to be the uniform of
the imperial guard. When we forced the house
we found it equally deserted, but completely fur-
nished, and of great extent. We set fire to it and
marched on.
I went with two soldiers of the 18th down
a street to the right, to a large house, which I
concluded belonged to a Tartar of consequence :
we burst the door and entered. Never shall I
forget the sight of misery that there met our view.
After we had forced our way over piles of
furniture, placed to barricade the door, we entered
an open court strewed with rich stuffs and covered
with clotted blood ; and upon the steps leading to
the " hall of ancestors " there were two bodies of
youthful Tartars, cold and stiff, much alike, ap-
parently brothers. Having gained the threshold
of their abode, they had died where they had
fallen, from the loss of blood. Stepping over
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110
SCENE OF HORROR.
CHAP. VII.
these bodies, we entered the hall, and met, face to
face, three women seated, a mother and two
daughters ; and at their feet lay two bodies of
elderly men, with their throats cut from ear to ear,
their senseless heads resting upon the feet of their
relations. To the right were two young girls,
beautiful and delicate, crouching over, and en-
deavouring to conceal, a living soldier.
In the heat of action, when the blood is up and
the struggle is for life between man and man,
the anguish of the wounded, and the sight of
misery and pain, is unheeded ; humanity is par-
tially obscured by danger; but when excitement
subsides with victory, and the individual circum-
stances are recalled to mind which led to the
result, a heart would be hardly human that could
feel unaffected by the retrospection. But the
hardest heart of the oldest man who ever lived a
life of rapine and slaughter could not have gazed
on this scene of woe unmoved.
I stopped, horror-struck at what I saw. I
must have betrayed my feelings by my counte-
nance, as I stood spell-bound to the spot. The
expression of cold unutterable despair depicted
on the mother's face changed to the violent
workings of scorn and hate, which at last burst
forth in a paroxysm of invective, afterwards in
floods of tears, which apparently, if any thing could,
chap. TO SCENE OF HORROR. 1 1 1
relieved her. She came close to me, and seized
me by the arm, and with clenched teeth and
deadly frown pointed to the bodies — to her
daughters — to her yet splendid house, and to
herself; then stepped back a pace, and with firmly
closed hands, and in a hoarse and husky voice, I
could see by her gestures spoke of her misery —
of her hate, and, I doubt not, of revenge. It was
a scene that one could not bear long ; consolation
was useless ; expostulation from me vain. I at-
tempted by signs to explain, offered her my
services, but was spurned. I endeavoured to
make her comprehend that, however great her
present misery, it might be in her unprotected
state a hundred-fold increased ; that if she would
place herself under my guidance, I would pass
her through the city gates in safety into the open
country, where, doubtless, she would meet many
of the fugitives ; but the poor woman would not
listen to me ; the whole family were by this time
in loud lamentation ; so all that remained for me
to do was to prevent the soldiers bayoneting the
man who, since our entrance, had attempted to
escape.
I left them, to return to the Commander-in-
chief.
As apparently all the soldiers had either
escaped, or thrown off their uniforms, and mixed
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112
RETURN ON BOARD.
chap. vn.
unknown with the crowds of townspeople, fur-
ther search was useless. The evening was waning
apace, and quarters were yet unprovided ; fas-
tidiousness and the difficulty of choice between
the many spacious houses were the only obstacles
likely to delay a speedy arrangement ; at length,
these important embarrassments were removed by
the discovery of a treasury, in a part of a very
extensive public building surrounded by a wall,
and enclosing a colonnade sufficiently large to
quarter several regiments.
Stiff and weary, and without a change of clothes,
I determined, as there was no occasion for my
staying, to return to the ship with Mr. Gough, a
son of the General, who happened to be in the
same plight with myself. With a small guard
we marched along the ramparts for a mile to the
western gate. The moon was up, and shone with
clear and tranquil light upon the silent town,
lying like an amphitheatre at our feet ; so still,
so smiling in the placid beauty of the scene and
hour, in sad mockery of the misery and despair
of its concealed and wretched inhabitants. From
the gate we took charge of a wounded officer to
the boat, and by ten o'clock I was on board the
Cornwallis.
Throughout the day both the Chinese and
Tartar troops evinced a determined bravery,
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chap. vn. ARMS OP THE CHINESE.
113
which commanded our respect; and I believe I
may safely say, that the upper classes, from the
first to the last, have shown by their conduct that
they cannot brook defeat ; for, although we have
captured many a Mandarin, we were never able
to keep them prisoners for any length of time,
they having either starved themselves by refusing
to eat food, or otherwise committed suicide.
The Chinese have shown many individual in-
stances of conspicuous gallantry : it may be suf-
ficient to remark one in particular that occurred on
the ramparts of Chin-kiang-foo. A Mandarin led
a small party of about thirty men against a com*
pany of General Schoedde's advancing column;
a volley dispersed his soldiers, but he marched
up to the points of the bayonets ; and, after firing
his matchlock, succeeded in pulling over the
ramparts with him two of the grenadiers.
I feel persuaded that, if drilled under English
officers, they would prove equal, if not superior,
to the Sepoys ; they have greater physical power,
greater obstinacy, and, consequently, minds that
retain impressions with greater tenacity, and
would be slow to lose confidence after it was once
built upon the foundation of their vanity.
Their favourite arms are the gingal, matchlock,
and bow and arrow ; besides these, they have the
spear, a halbert resembling that formerly used by
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114
UNIFORMS AND ARMS OF chap. vii.
our sergeants, a battle-axe, and an instrument not
unlike a hedge chopper, fastened on a long pole ;
also the sword, both double and single handed.
A gingal resembles our wall-piece, and some
carry a two-pound ball: it is supported upon a
tripod, and requires three men to work and carry-
it, and is a very serviceable weapon.
The matchlock-man carries the charges for his
piece in bamboo tubes, contained in a cotton belt
fastened round his waist. He loads without a
ramrod by striking the butt against the ground
after inserting the ball ; the consequence is, that
he can charge and fire faster than one of us with
a common musket.
When they fire from walls or entrenched camps,
the best marksmen are stationed in front, and sup-
plied with matchlocks by people whose only duty
it is to load them.
The barrel of a matchlock is about the length
of a Greek rifle, and is generally very accurate.
If we had had a less active General, our loss
during the war would have been very considerable ;
as it was, the Chinese had but little time given
them for ball practice.
Their bows possess little strength, and are not
equal to the arrows, which are strong and well
made.
Besides these arms, they have rockets, and also
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»
chap. vn. TAKTARS AND CHINESE.
115
arrow-rockets, which I believe I may safely say
did no harm throughout the war.
The dress of the Tartar and Chinese soldier
is the same, only distinguished by the colour of
the trimming. The common uniform consists of a
quilted shirt, hanging down outside to the hips ;
an iron head-piece, and long boots, covering the
thighs, made of cotton or satin, and with thick
soles. At the commencement of the war, many
of the troops used chain-armour ; latterly it was
discontinued.
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116 PROVISIONS FOR GARRISON, chap. vra.
CHAP. VIII.
LANDING OF PROVISIONS FOR GARRISON. APPEARANCE OF
A CAPTURED CITY. ABSENCE OF BIRDS AND BEASTS OF
PREY. — CAST-IRON PAGODA. CHINE8E PLUNDERERS.
JUNKS. TARTAR SECRETARY. EMPEROR'S LETTERS.
HOLLOW BASTION. PROGRESS TOWARDS NANKING.
CHINESE DINNER. FIRST VIEW OF PORCELAIN PA-
GODA. GREAT WALL OF NANKING.
During the forenoon of the 22d, the boats of
the fleet were employed landing provisions and
baggage for the brigade ordered to remain behind.
I went on shore with Captain Grey to walk over
the scene of the " last day's slaughter." Inside
the city we could hardly pass along the streets
for plunder; crates of beautiful China, bronze
ornaments, vases, satins, silks, crape, and gold
embroidery; besides, bales of meaner articles
were strewed about in every direction. The best
had been selected and carried for a short distance
until a new object attracted the pilferer's eye,
when the old was cast away and trodden under
foot. The Chinese were the most numerous and
systematic plunderers.
The work of death was still progressing.
Captain Grey and I entered a house, where we
Digitized by Google
CHAP. viil. CAPTURED CITY. 11V
saw twenty bodies of women and young girls,
some hanging, others extended upon the floor ; all
had either committed suicide, or been destroyed
by their relatives. A panic had seized the un-
fortunate inhabitants, and every second house
contained self-immolated victims. We saved
several lives, but they were to the destroyed as
drops are to the ocean.
On our progress to the General's quarters, we
lost our way by leaving the ramparts, and entered
a portion of the Chinese town hitherto unvisited.
Apparitions from the lower regions could not have
caused greater consternation among the crowds of
unfortunate people, busily collecting their goods,
and sending their wives and families into the
country by a postern gate that had escaped our
notice, than we three (including a middy of the
Endymion) produced among them, particularly
among the poor women, many of whom, I fancy,
had seldom, if ever before, left the precincts of
their gardens. Some were very good-looking, and
all had a grace peculiarly their own. Two
poor creatures, evidently belonging to the higher
class, had blackened their faces to conceal their
beauty — a thin disguise to the prying eyes of
licentiousness. However, it is my belief that
less villany was perpetrated than could have
been reasonably expected, taking into con-
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118 ABSENCE OF BEASTS OF PREY. chap. vm.
sideration the anarchy that always for a time
prevails in a captured city. Those they had
cause to fear most were, beyond all doubt, their
own countrymen.
The absence of all birds and beasts of prey
struck me as being a strong evidence of the
denseness of the population, and of the highly
cultivated condition of the country. If there
had been many in the country, or within hun-
dreds of miles of us, their natural instinct would
long ago have drawn them to the proximity of
our camp.
Upon our arrival at the Commmander-in-
chief 's we found the prize agents packing up the
treasure, which, however, proved inconsiderable —
not more than 60,000 dollars worth of Sycee
silver. In the same room with the silver they
discovered a quantity of opium in small portions,
hermetically enclosed in wax, each separate piece
about the size of a roulette ball, and stamped and
numbered, so precious do they consider this dan-
gerous drug.
On the 24th, at about 5 A. m., I landed with the
Admiral at the base of the bluff brow below the
city. We met Sir Hugh Gough upon the hill,
who was there to meet us. He took us round
the summit to show a small cast-iron pagoda,
which Gutzlaff told me is, from the inscription
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chap. vm. CAST-IRON PAGODA. 119
and characters, marking the epoch by their form,
at least 1200 years old: that would carry its
origin back to the Tang dynasty.
It stands between thirty and forty feet high, .
at the base about eight feet in diameter, and is
filled in with bricks to the summit. Each of the
seven stories is a separate cast : groups of figures
ornament every side of the octagon ; and it is easy
to be seen were cast in good relief, although now
much time-worn.
Anxious to know something of the use or tra-
ditionary history of this singular tower, I went
with an interpreter into the adjoining Jos house
to demand an explanation from a priest, who we
found had just risen from his mosquito curtained
bed. But whether our sudden appearance had
terrified him, or whether from want of practice he
had lost the use of speech, I cannot affirm, but to
all my questions the silly old man did nothing
but grin and laugh until the tears ran down his
cheeks.
The emotion of fear must produce a different
sensation in a Chinese from what it does in other
people, for, when most afraid, they invariably
« laugh the heartiest ; rather against the theory
of Mr. Hobbes, that " the passion of laughter is
nothing else but sudden glory arising from some
sudden conception of some eminency in ourselves
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120 WATER SNAKE.
CHAP. VIII.
by comparison with the infirmity of others, or
with our own formerly."
This height would be a fine military post, and
. is to be occupied by Major-General Schoedde's
brigade while we are up the river. It not only
commands the town in a military point of view,
but an agreeable and extensive prospect, and is
by far the most airy spot that could be chosen.
On our way back to the ship we destroyed a
water snake about seven feet in length. They
abound in these waters ; but I have not heard
that their bite is so fatal as that of those which
are met with amongst the islands of the Eastern *
Archipelago.
25th July. — Landed with the Admiral before
5 a.m. Ascended the hill, whence the General /
reconnoitred the enemy the morning of the attack. /
As I looked upon the fields and numerous roads /
of communication to and from the city, I ob- /
served strings of Chinese crowding every way, a^
busy and systematic as ants, going empty handed
and returning laden. As well as I could see,
they carried their loads some distance into the
country, and were relieved by accomplices, who,
I imagine, had small boats in waiting among the
rushes, a considerable distance from any creek
Another immense gang — almost an army — was
gradually surrounding a great public building,
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chap. vra. CHINESE PLUNDERERS.
121
plainly with the intention of committing open
burglary. The Admiral saw this, and questioned
a countryman, who said it was a depository of
some government monopoly. General Schoedde,
who happened to be near, was informed of this,
and he quickly sent some artillery to disperse
the rascals.
26tk. — Major Malcolm came to the Cornwallis
by times this morning, to entice me up the river
to inspect about three hundred junks, for the
purpose of selecting two or three from among
them to carry ponies. They were collected up a
branch, or rather partition of the river, under
charge of the Blonde. After breakfast we went to
the Blonde, and got a boat from her to the junks.
These vessels look very cumbersome, but are ad-
mirably adapted for the canals and rivers they
have to navigate. Their draught is light, capa-
city for stowage great, accommodation above the
deck excellent, besides their high sterns giving
the facility of overlooking the tall rushes every
where bordering the river and creeks of the low
country.
We boarded numbers, some in shape almost a
crescent, others more like a shoe, while many
were straighter in their sheer, and sufficiently
spacious to carry two troops of cavalry ; but these
were too large and clumsy for our small detach-
er
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122
JUNKS.
CHAP. VIII.
ment. We also felt some commiseration for the
owners of the flax, hemp, rice, sugar, &c, they
were laden with, much of which it would have
been necessary to discharge, to render them avail-
able for our purpose.
We sent our boat back for the men to get their
dinners, trusting to the pilotage of a Chinaman
nearly blind from ophthalmia, and who with his
sanpan we pressed into service. Under his
guidance we went a mile higher up, and fortu-
nately found among the List batch two craft of
the required dimensions, the one empty above the
deck, on which were built the cabins, and well bal-
lasted with oil jars. The sliding panels unshipped,
and left a clear space into which we after wards
introduced ten horses. The other was a smaller
vessel, somewhat larger than a line-of-battle ship's
launch, and apparently built for conveying pas-
sengers. The two cabins and galley occupied the
entire upper space, only leaving a sufficiency of
room before all, for the capstan. Instead of pa-
nellings, light open trellised screens, beautifully
carved and polished, surrounded the vessel, ad-
mitting a free circulation of air; and if the
weather happened to be cold or stormy, these
could be closed by shutters made of pearl oyster
shells*, sufficiently clear to admit the light.
* They have little or no glass in China.
CHAP. VIII.
TARTAR SECRETARY.
123
The cabin was upwards of six feet high, and the
deck in hatches was dry-rubbed, as also the fur-
niture, to a polish that would have done credit to
a cabinet maker.
We had not the heart to turn this little vessel
into a stable, so she eventually became our yacht.
We kept the captain and crew on board to work
her; they received a stipend and their food, and
proved good and zealous servants.
These Chinese are curious people. They evinced
little or no surprise at our appearance ; submitted
with the greatest apathy to our unceremonious
examination, and although by ourselves in a na-
tive punt, obeyed our orders to weigh without
a question.
Two days after the action, while viewing the
ruins of the Tartar General's house — his funeral
pile — where, like a Roman of old, he sat himself
down in his spacious hall, when all was lost, and
desired his faithful attendants to obey his last
command — to complete their last service by firing
the building — Mr. Morrison discovered a man
hid among the bushes in the garden : he proved
to be the civil secretary of the late General, and
had letters and papers about him of consequence.
He was carried off as a prize, with the budget to
be examined and translated on board the Queen.
He spoke of his lost master with great feeling, and
G 2
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124
emperor's letters.
chap. vm.
described him as one of the best and noblest of
men.
Some of the despatches were from him to the
Emperor, others from the Sovereign. The former
gave a faithful account of our movements from
Woosung to the day of our anchoring off Chin-
kiang-foo. He expressed his unalterable fidelity
and determination to fight to the last, but at the
same time conjured his master, with the prophetic
foresight of a doomed man, to end this war, at
least, until their warlike resources were more
systematically arranged, and the troops recruited
and concentrated. He alluded to our science and
energy, but did not allow that the barbarian's
Queen possessed more devoted, or braver subjects
than his august master. He mentioned all his
own arrangements and readiness to await the
attack, and, if joined by some expected reinforce-
ments, his expectations of success. He concluded
by saying, that his walls were high and in good
repair, and that the city, which some years before
beat back an organised banditti amounting to
300,000 men, might be able to repulse a few
" barbarians."
The Emperor's letters are full of reproaches for
battles lost, accusations of cowardice against men
who had died bravely while he was writing these
bitter letters, and threats in the event of future
failure.
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chap. vni. LETTER FROM KE-YlNG. 125
About this time, Sir Henry received a letter
from Ke-ying, who introduces himself as " an
unworthy connection of the imperial house," and
who mentions that he had journeyed from the
north to see and to hear realities and truths.
" Why should they not," he wrote, "meet to
speak, and mutually endeavour to level the moun-
tains of separation and unite the gaps of discord,
before they widened to a gulf, over which there
would be no passing?"
The letter itself is a beautiful appeal to the
feelings of humanity — an eloquent remonstrance,
cleverly omitting all mention of the points at issue.
In consequence of Ke-ying's reputed worth and
illustrious birth, Sir Henry Pottinger thought it
right to answer his letter officially. Mutually
with him he regretted the war, its cause and long
continuance. Driven at last, after great forbear-
ance, to avenge insulted honour, nothing could
stay our indignation but ample redress, an acknow-
ledgment of our just, our unalterable demands,
which are stated in his proclamation, and to
which Ke-ying is referred ; at the same time assur-
ing him, that the day that would again see the
two nations united in peace would be the happiest
of his life. He concluded by saying, that he
would be delighted to meet so illustrious a person
as accredited plenipotentiary, but must decline
G 3
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126 HOLLOW BASTION. chap. vm.
the honour of an interview with any private indi-
vidual, however high his station.
27th. — Went on shore with Captain Grey
to examine a hollow bastion, placed to flank a
straight wall on either side : it is pierced with
numerous loop-holes, which are made accessible by
a spiral staircase: it commands, within a short
distance, the spot where our ladders were planted,
but, fortunately for our troops, the enemy were
dislodged by the Auckland's fire before they were
within matchlock range.
Sir Henry has gleaned most important intelli-
gence from papers collected on shore.
Some despatches from the provincial powers to
the government do any thing but urge peace,
while they own the great distress our ascent and
blockade of the river has produced. Others ex-
press a fear that we have detached a squadron to
blockade the gulf of Petchelee, which the letters
say would cause, in addition to the stoppage of
this river, utter ruin. While the former con-
tinues open, hope remains ; for with the S. W.
monsoon all supplies, both from the tributaries
and the main, can, with a little activity, be landed
before winter.
In the evening two white opaque buttoned
mandarins came on board the Queen : they were
bearers of letters from Elipoo, and were handsome
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CHAP. VIII.
CHINESE RU1XS.
-
127
intelligent men, under five and twenty, upwards
of six feet high, and stout in proportion.
I was surprised and gratified to see a degree of
modesty, blended with proper independence of
demeanour, both in their carriage and conversa-
tion, the more remarkable in these individuals, as
they must be among the exceptions to the sway
of example.
2d of August — I went with a companion to
see our horses on board the junk : they are some
that the artillery (our never-failing friends) caught
running about the town and compounds. They
are hardy animals, about the size of a Galloway,
and would be, I doubt not, under proper manage-
ment, very acceptable ponies in any country.
Indeed, our short care improved them vastly.
In the afternoon I landed on the north shore
with Captain Watson to see some ruined walls.
One leaves the shore at right angles, and extends
inland for some distance, until lost amid rubbish
and underwood, the other runs nearly parallel
with the river, diverging from its shores at an
acute angle. In some places it is entirely hid by
accumulated earth. What caught my attention
was its structure of stone — a durable material
not usually employed in this part of China. It
may be a portion of the old terrace of the Koyal
Gardens of Woo-yeun, or, perhaps, the facing to
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128 PROGRESS TOWARDS NANKING, chap, vm.
an old canal now no more. We might have
arrived at more certain conclusions, if our research
had not been suddenly disturbed by a drove of
ponies galloping past. We could not resist the
Yorkshireman's propensity, so, converting the
galley's main sheet into a lazo, we gave chase.
Watson volunteered to be the gaucho, while I offi-
ciated as haciendou to guide the direction of the
drove. After several throws, which displayed
Watson's skill in the pampa accomplishment, he
succeeded in catching one round the neck; but
the little brute proved so restive, that the gallant
Captain had to decide between certain damage to
his boat, had he taken it on board, and non-pos-
session of the horse: the first consideration
gained the day, and the pony his — liberty.
3d. — Cornwallis. Recommenced the ascent"
of the river, for the purpose of proceeding to
Nanking. The Vixen took us in tow early in
the forenoon ; but the chow-chow water retarded
our progress considerably until we entered the
south arm of the river, which wound near the
base of the chain of mountains to the southward.
A powerful sun shone without the intervention of
a single cloud to protect our craniums. The
masts of the Dido, the upper guard-ship, soon
hove in sight, and when within four miles of her,
Harry Keppel came on board. He had the
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chap. vra. CHINESE DINNER. 129
command of an extensive portion of the river,
with two or three small craft under his orders to
assist. He has been acting as a commissary as
well as magistrate in his proper person, and has
supplied more stock than all the fleet together,
besides conciliating the good will of the people
around him. He told me of the market he had
established at the entrance of a large town we
saw from the ship ; of the fat elder who sought
protection from him, and of a most laborious
dinner that he sat down to with the officers ol
his squadron: it consisted of bird's nest soup,
shark's fins, and all the other luxuries of the
season and country. After the gastronomy was
over, the fat gentleman reclined upon a couch
properly placed to show the strangers how to
smoke opium: his pipe was primed by a lean
attendant seated near him.
We anchored shortly after sunset abreast of a
hilly ridge, descending abruptly into the river.
4th. — Weighed at daylight; headed a tide of
four knots an hour ; saw a wretched little cata-
maran with a mat sail, and English jack flying,
shove off from a junk lying in shore, with the
intention of intercepting us; she failed, and the
two disconsolate wights, yclept Major M and
Lieut. E , fruitlessly held up a large fish as a
G 5
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130 PORCELAIN PAGODA. chap. vm.
bribe to heave to — certainly a strong temptation
to resist before breakfast.
About five miles from where we weighed, our
course varied by degrees from W. N. W. to N. W.
by N. ; the river then took a bend W. and
W.S.W., the waters thrown off the northern
shore by the first high land we have met with on
that side. Its appearance was cheering; a well
regulated variety of hill and dale, diversified
by plantations and pasture land, reminded us of
our own country and prospects familiar to us all.
Without such an occasional reminiscence, it is im-
posing a tax upon one's memory to compare old
scenes with the changing new.
" 'Tis folly to dream of a bower of green,
When there is not a leaf on the tree."
Far to the S. W., about eight miles, we could
sec for a moment, as we opened a valley between
two intervening hills, the famed porcelain pagoda
of Nanking, and shortly after the wall, extending,
like a huge snake, over hill and over valley,
topping the young trees on either side. Three
hills, the highest of which I fancy must be 800
feet, flank the eastern wall, outside its circuit,
and hide a portion of the S.E. angle from our
view, whilst small and steep eminences, clothed
with bamboo and underwood, rise directly on the
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CHAP. VIII.
WALL OF NANKING
131
inside of the inner front, forming positions ad-
mirably adapted for military defence. The pros-
pect, although not what a Westmoreland or Swiss
tourist would think deserving his romantic regard,
is, nevertheless, pleasing and fine, and worthy
the site of a great capital.
The immense river laves its very walls ; the
considerable and graceful mountains and extensive
plain at their base, upon which the city stands,
have all the dignity of size and position to com-
mand the respect of the beholder, and to prepare
him for the grand dimensions of a great city. On
the northern shore is seen a high embattled wall,
vying in solidity and extent with that of Nan-
king ; this is said to be the wall of Pou-keou, but
I rather think it must be the famous breastwork
behind which the victorious Tartar army lay a
year encamped, before they crossed the river to
attack Nanking. The old camp was afterwards
converted into hunting grounds for the conqueror,
and still exists, a royal preserve.
G 6
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132
ANCHOR OFF NANKING.
CHAP. IX.
CHAP. IX.
ANCHOR OFF NANKING. RECONNOISSANCE OF THE
WESTERN WALL OF THE CITY. REPORT OF THE AP-
POINTMENT OF COMMISSIONERS. — OFFER OF RANSOM.—
YAN-TSE-SHAN, OR SWALLOw's NEST. SICKNESS. —
INTERCEPTED DESPATCH. CORRESPONDENCE BETWEEN
THE ENVOY AND KE-YINQ. DISEMBARKATION OF
TROOPS. — RECONNOITRING PARTY. MAJOR MALCOLm's
JUNK. NIGHT ALARM.
At a quarter past 11a. m., on the 4th of August,
1842, the first European vessel, and that an
English 74, anchored off the manned walls of the
ancient capital of China.
Triangular flags with waving pennants of the
yack ox hair, fluttering above the ramparts, iden-
tified the soldiers as Tartars, while their uniforms
of bright orange and red denoted them guards
from the northern frontiers : fine men they were,
and we could see, without the aid of our glasses,
three to every embrasure, and all armed with
matchlocks. The breastworks had been newly
repaired, gingals mounted upon them, besides
boxes of lime piled up to throw upon the escalad-
ing party.
The portion of the wall we see is upwards of
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CHAP. IX.
RECOXXOISSAXCE
133
thirty-five feet in height, built of brick against
the escarped sides of the low chain of hills, and
protected to the north, west, and south by a deep
canal, serving as a wet ditch.
I embarked in the forenoon with the Admiral's
party on board one of the small steamers, to make
a reconnoissance past the walls of Nanking. The
river is divided by a large alluvial island, doubtless
formed by an accumulated deposit stopped by the
projection upon which the north-western wall
stands. We followed the inner branch for about
six miles, until we were opposite the south-eastern
angle. Upon the high and broad ramparts, and
slightly screened by breast- works recently run up,
were rows of tents along the greater portion of
the line.
From our position we saw but little of the
town ; but an impulse was given to our curiosity
to explore the tempting groves surrounding it
by the occasional glimmer through the trees of
a gilded pinnacle, or glimpse of a temple, only
partially seen.
On our ascent we entrapped a sanpan con-
taining four men ; the elder of whom we brought
on board to interrogate, and to prevent stoppage,
the boat was towed astern. He voluntarily told
us that the broken garrison of Chin-kiang-foo had
joined this in a most pitiable state; that nearly
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]34 DESPATCH FROM ELIPOO. chap. ix.
all were wounded ; that the Chinese inhabitants
were precluded from passing either in or out
of Nanking, and that the canal skirting the
southern face was blocked up by sunken junks
full of stones. The truth of this information
was confirmed by our own observation from the
mast-head.
While he was undergoing his examination his
companions managed to swamp the boat, by bad
steering; the steamer was instantly stopped;
the admiral's barge shoved off, saved the crew,
righted the sanpan, and within five minutes the
dripping Chinese were on board safe and sound ;
but the old man's wailing was so loud and in-
consolable that the Admiral was but too glad to
send him away without further questioning.
Upon our arrival at the ship we found the two
white- buttoned mandarins our acquaintances of
Chin-kiang waiting the Admiral's return: they
were the bearers of a despatch from Elipoo,
stating that a high dignitary, a relation of the
Emperor, in conjunction with himself, was em-
powered to treat for peace. He regretted our
rapid ascent of the river, as he had proceeded
some portion of the way to our late anchorage,
where he anticipated the pleasure of meeting the
high authorities of the honourable nation, and he
was now retracing his steps, which, from his
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CHAP. IX.
OFFER OF RANSOM.
135
indifferent health, he grieved to say, would occupy
more time than he could wish. He again, with
great plausibility, enlarged upon the prospects of
a long war, depicted the blessings of peace to
both nations, and the certain misery that would
inevitably befall both conquerors and conquered
if hostilities were continued. He ended by en-
treating we would wait his arrival.
The messengers had brought presents of fresh tea
(very neatly packed in small baskets), sweetmeats,
and some pieces of silk. The latter articles were
returned with a " cumshaw" equivalent in value
to the things retained.
On the 5th two brass-buttoned mandarins
came with a chop from the Governor-general,
offering us 300,000 dollars if we would move
down the river. I believe no answer was re-
turned to this. Shortly after they came back
with an offer to double the sum, upon agreement
to the same conditions. Again the same officers
came on board with a letter from the Tartar
General, proposing an interview with the Com-
mander-in-Chief exclusive of the Plenipoten-
tiary, knowing it was useless to ask him. It was
refused.
A letter delivered at the same time informed
Sir Henry that Elipoo had arrived, and had
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126
THE SWALLOW'S NEST. chap. ix.
made anxious inquiries after his Excellency's
health.
This forenoon I accompanied the Admiral and
party in a steamer, to explore a creek which we
ascertained cut off the corner round which the
great river bends. It skirts within a few hundred
yards the site of the old eastern wall (portions
of which we could occasionally trace), and forms
a semicircular bend from the base of the steep
mountain of Chung-shan (the highest of the three
already mentioned) until it again joins the main
river. We discovered two good landing-places ;
the one about half way, the other two thirds
down. From the former a pathway leads from
low swampy ground to a wooded valley between
the hills, and the latter is a causeway of im-
portance ; a place of traffic directly at the foot
of an abrupt and singuarly shaped promontory
called Yen-tse-shan, or the Swallow's Nest. A
little temple crowns the summit, almost over-
hanging the perpendicular cliff jutting into the
river. When we passed it, it was crowded inside
and out with wondering people gaping at the
" Demon Ship." A neat village spreads round
its base, and rises up the inland slope to-
wards several jos-houses, which are the highest
buildings.
A broad paved road leads from the shore, and
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CHAP. IX.
SICKNESS,
137
passes under an arched gateway that connects two
hills naturally divided by a steep ravine, with a
continuous breadth, and in good repair : this road
traverses a bosky country to within 500 yards of
the walls, and then over paddy and corn land to
the Taiping Gate ; from thence the wall extends
to the southward over a spur of Chung-shan, and
there turns off to the west. We found the water
in the creeks sufficiently deep for any ship of the
fleet, free from obstructions, and the current in-
considerable.
6th. — We are anxiously waiting for the
portion of the transports detained by contrary
winds.
The sickness which began to make sad havoc
with both arms of the force, before we left Ching-
kiang-foo, has not diminished as we thought it
would by change of position. The flag-ship,
hitherto free, is now under the ban : every pre-
caution that science and cleanliness can effect, in
addition to discipline and occupation, has been
tried, but without avail. It is hard to reconcile
the fatal progress of pestilence, with the smiling
beauty of so luxuriant a country, and of so clear
and bright a climate.
7 th. — A day or two ago a despatch from the
Governor- General to the Emperor was intercepted
by one of our vessels stationed a few miles above
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138
INTERCEPTED DESPATCH. chap. ix.
the main anchorage. It complained to his majesty
that the Supreme General had withdrawn the
best troops 500 ly from the city ; also that two
parties from the captured town of Ching-kiang had
entered Nanking, accompanied by numbers of
the houseless inhabitants: they reported having
fought their way out of the town ; that the
barbarians had lost many killed, and that if they
had been joined by the expected reinforcements,
they would, without doubt, have inflicted a severe
chastisement upon the rapacious invaders.
8th. — Five mandarins went on board the en-
voy's steamer with an answer to the letter, in which
Sir Henry had agreed to an interview, provided
the Chinese commissioners could show the Em-
peror's authority to enter upon negotiations. It
was unsatisfactory ; signed by Keying and Elipoo,
not as accredited ministers, but simple commis-
sioners limited to treat upon certain subjects, such
as future commercial arrangement, and the pay-
ment of sums to conclude the war. In making
mention of the Queen they placed her rank two
grades below the Emperor's.
Sir Henry instantly sent the letter back, point-
ing out the insult, which he concluded must be a
mistake of the secretary who wrote it: he de-
manded an instant explanation and apology. They
must be aware, he wrote, that her Majesty
chap. ix. CORRESPONDENCE WITH ENVOY. 139
was second to no sovereign on the face of the
globe.
An answer full of apologies, and (catching at
Sir Henry's hint) accusing the secretary who
wrote the letter of ignorance and neglect, and pro-
testing no such error should occur in future, was
sent back.
The plenipotentiary declined an interview, and
warned the faithless old men that he would not
stay hostilities, nor interfere for a single second
with the active operations of the Commanders-in-
chief.
9th. — Intelligence that the u all spreading
General" has entered the city with reinforce-
ments has been communicated through the me-
dium of one of the brass buttons. Shortly after
this they sent to say that Nanking was a poor
town, and could not afford to pay more than
300,000 dollars ransom.
10th. — War upon the ascendant. The last
ships of the fleet have arrived.
llth. — Disembarked two large bodies of troops.
Lord Saltoun marched from the u Swallow's Nest "
— Sir Hugh landed at the centre pathway. About
two hours after their landing a chop was trans-
lated, stating that Elipoo and his colleague had
received full powers to treat upon every subject,
and beseeching a suspension of operations. Not
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140
FINE PROSPECT.
CHAP. IX.
to be thought of ; so on we marched up the valley
and over the low ground, extending between the
river and the S.E. wall. The country most
lovely. For two miles and a half we traversed
thickets of pomegranates, Spanish chestnuts, plan-
tations of trembling beech, and a long fibred fir
— a much prized wood used for building junks.
An occasional open space displayed fields in a high
state of cultivation, producing the capsicum, the
pumpkin, the melon, and the bringall, also the
large leafed tobacco plant ; the various compounds
and divisions bordered by the stately tassel grass,
waving its silky plume to every passing breeze.
At intervals we could see the walls, and some-
times stopped to reconnoitre ; but until we as-
cended a conical hill, higher than the rest, and
close to the edge of the level lying between us
and the city, we were able to take no good
survey.
The prospect from this summit was very fine,
no feature grand, but altogether very picturesque
and striking. To the right of where we stood,
round wooded eminences extended in detached
hillocks, rather than ridges, to the river, while to
the left in the same way, but with more develope-
ment of size and feature, they rose towards the
last and highest of the range, Chung-shan. In
front the plain sloped, rich in produce, to the vast
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chap. ix. RECONNOITRING PARTY.
141
Babylonian wall ; the summit of which preserved
its horizontal level, notwithstanding the great
irregularity of ground, which is so considerable,
that in some places the rampart must be ninety
feet in height.
We could discern the paved causeway leading
from the pass of the " Swallow's Nest," extending
over the plain to the Taiping Gate, which is at
the corner of an angle of the wall nearly opposite
to where we stood, and close to the inner wall
surrounding the Tartar portion of the city. Di-
rectly in front of us a projecting bastion flanked
by inner works seemed, from the firmness of the
ground and comparative lowness of the ramparts,
a likely spot to escalade ; accordingly, twenty men
and an officer under the command of Captain
Pears of the Madras Engineers, were sent to
reconnoitre, and Lieut. Heatly, Deputy- Assistant-
Adjutant-General, and I, went with them. Brush-
wood covered our progress up to a small village
which extended in a single street from the wall,
and lay exposed to the fire of the garrison. Pears
left the men under cover of the houses, and pro-
ceeded in company with Heatly and myself down
the street in full view of the troops upon the wall,
who no sooner observed us than they assembled
in great numbers from the extended posts; but
seeing that we were unattended, they allowed us
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142
RECONNOITRING PARTY.
CHAP. IX,
to walk all round the bastion, and make every
observation without hinderance or molestation.
We addressed them in the few words of Chinese
we knew, but could not elicit, nor in fact did we
wait long for a reply, and after we had seen all
that was necessary, we left them standing with
their matchlocks and bows in their hands.
In the mean time the General had observed
the rush made upon our first appearance, and had
ordered the Grenadiers under arms to our rescue ;
fortunately, however, their assistance was not
required. On our return the General prepared to
visit Lord Saltoun's position : he was posted with
two regiments and artillery upon the plain to the
south of our hill, which Sir Hugh left in possession
of H. M.'s 26th, with orders to garrison the jos
house, hitherto the salubrious abode of some fifteen
lazy priests of Fo.
After a hot march of two miles, we arrived
amongst straggling houses completely deserted;
the doors shut and fastened ; and over their portals
we observed large red paper placards inscribed
with black characters, signifying " submissive
people."
We found Lord Saltoun in an extensive building
off the main street, surrounded by his troops. We
then retraced our steps to the steamer, and were
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CHAP. IX.
MAJOR MALCOLM'S JUNK.
143
on board in time for the all-important daily occu-
pation — dinner.
12th. — Last night I slept on board the junk
in which Major Malcolm came up the river. A
great transformation had been effected since I,
with him, first boarded her, lying among the
crowd of other junks up the Blonde's creek ; then
several cribs, like those in Highland cabins, with
sliding panels, expressly constructed to destroy
health by excluding the fresh air of heaven, were
built between the two main cabins, and every
little recess converted, with elaborate ingenuity,
into stow-holes — a description of repository the
Chinese are very partial to. These were now all
cleared away, and in their room stood a mag-
nificently carved cabinet, nearly the height of the
cabin: it was placed against the bulk-head, and
stocked for our daily use with china that a connois-
seur would have envied ; silk curtains, graced with
trellised shutters ; tables and chairs, books and pa-
pers, were in due proportion, and two camp beds,
which in the daytime supplied the place of sofas.
The kitchen was abaft, and most satisfactory meals
our Chinese cooks concocted in it. Here was a
complete floating establishment, which we could
convey with us to any spot we pleased. Our crew
consisted of five Chinese, including the original
captain: we had besides two English seamen to
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144
MAJOR MALCOLM'S JUNK. . chap. ix.
keep watch, and act, in case of necessity, as a
body guard : two Chinese servants and ourselves
completed the establishment.
Now for her equipment : — she had two masts,
both before the central section, and both inclining
forward; no rigging on either; nothing to sup-
port them but the pair of single halyards to hoist
the sails; and their purchase could be doubled
and trebled with great ease by a most ingenious
toggle purchase. The sails were of cotton, stretched
upon bamboos. From the after-end of each a sheet
rove through a dead block, forming an extensive
crow-foot. Each space between the bamboos com-
prised a reef, which could be taken in on the
instant by lowering the halyards to the proper
distance : the anchors were iron grappling. The
cables made of bamboo strips, beautifully plaited
and perfectly round, were very buoyant and
elastic : the smoothness of their surface prevents
the liability of chafing, and their great buoyancy
would render them eminently useful for warping,
even in our own service. The rudder was passed
up through a hole in the overhanging transom,
and the keel, confined by two keel ropes, passed
under the bottom, and fastened to bollards abreast
the main-mast. Such are the fittings of our craft
and the generality of Chinese junks. We found
it in the hands of its habitual proprietors manage-
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CHAP. IX.
NIGHT ALARM.
145
able enough ; less so than a floating haystack in
our own.
We landed our ponies, and shortly after dawn
joined our three high authorities at the centre
landing-place. We mustered a large party, and
proceeded to the hill, where the 26th Regt. were
quartered, as the General was desirous to point out
the spot where he intended to commence his
attack. On our way we met a litter conveying a
wounded soldier of the 26th to the beach. He,
poor fellow, was startled in the night by loud
cries from among his comrades that the Chinese
were upon them : he rushed out in his shirt, and
was received upon the bayonet of the sentry at
the entrance, who unfortunately heard the dis-
turbance, and mistook the white figure running
towards him in a loose robe for a Chinese. A
young recruit, in the activity of his dreams, had
caused the alarm.
We reached our military post with excellent
appetites, which we satisfied with beef steaks from
a cow we found the day before stowed away
among some high reeds.
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146 PAWNBROKER OF YANG-CHOW. chap. x.
CHAP. X.
CHINESE OFFICIAL CORRESPONDENCE. THE PAWNBROKER
OF YANG-CHOW. CONFERENCES WITH THE DEPUTIE8.-^-
RESPECT PAID TO THE IMPERIAL EDICT8. EXCURSION
ALONG THE BANKS OF THE CANAL. -— FLOODS, t— CLI-
MATE THUNDER-STORM. THE BAMBOO. — FIRST IN-
TERVIEW WITH IMPERIAL COMMISSIONERS.
Sd of August. — Breakfasted with Sir Henry,
who showed me some papers which had fallen into
his hands, detailing an admirable official system,
which the Chinese practise, of having at the su-
preme boards of the various departments particular
envelopes appropriate to each office, and marked
in accordance with the subject of the papers they
contain. They are filed and numbered, and kept
in presses under the immediate charge of the
minister, who imposes the same responsibility
on the local governors, to whom they are sent,
as he is under to his Imperial master for their
safety.
While I was on board the Queen, the old
pawnbroker of Yang-chow arrived with a letter.
This is the man who, to save his city (which is
situated upon the banks of the canal, on the north
chap. X. OFFICIAL CONFERENCES. 147
side of the river) from assault, collected among
his fellow-townsmen a ransom of 500,000 dollars.
Such a compromise would, a few months ago,
have cost him either his life or liberty; but in
this instance he has been rewarded with a blue
button, and an order has lately been sent him
from Pekin to endeavour to negotiate a like ar-
rangement for Nanking, — a strong evidence that
the Imperial government has, at last, been forced
into the conviction that its greatest and strongest
towns are at our mercy.
Both yesterday and to-day Major Malcolm, the
Secretary of Legation, has, with Mr. Morrison,
had preliminary interviews with the provincial
treasurer and Tartar General to examine the
alleged Imperial authority, and also to discuss
and gain the consent of the Commissioners to the
outline of the treaty drawn up by Sir Henry for
their inspection; so that when the high func-
tionaries of both nations meet, no difference may
arise to mar or interrupt what they themselves
term " the smooth stream of good understanding."
Malcolm's interview of this morning was most
unsatisfactory : they would not produce the Im-
perial commission, but only a partial copy, nor
would they come to any definite arrangement
upon any single point ; so he left them with the
clear understanding that the guns now in po-
ll 2
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148 OFFICIAL CONFERENCES. chap. x.
sition would open fire at day-dawn if the Pleni-
potentiary had not the authority to show the
Commanders-in-chief before that time. This pro-
duced the desired result. Mandarins came off,
after midnight, with a letter from Ke-ying, be-
seeching that another interview might be ar-
ranged for the following day, when the Imperial
commission would be produced.
14M. — After breakfast I accompanied Major
Malcolm and Messrs. Morrison and Thorn on
shore to the interview, which was to decide
whether the Chinese would yield to our demands.
It took place in a large temple situated in the
suburbs under the south wall, and a short dis-
tance from the canal up which we proceeded
in the Queen's cutter, by an opening cut
through heavy rafts of timber drawn across its
entrance to block up the passage. Several large
junks full of stones had also been sunk athwart
ships, but these were burst and broken up into
various portions by the strength of the current,
leaving ample room for an unobstructed onward
progress to the largest boat.
We landed on a rickety bamboo pier con-
structed for our accommodation, and were in-
stantly surrounded by a crowd composed of the
lowest order, who appeared eager to see speci-
mens of the formidable "barbarians;" and the
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chap. x. OFFICIAL CONFERENCES. 149
sight to men, who judge by size and muscle, must
have been humiliating to their self-love, as we
were all of slight build, and, moreover, had come
quite unprepared for the show. Linen clean, I
hope, but for weeks unacquainted with either
iron or mangle ; shoes that would have done good
service on the moors, and coats of modest cut and
old acquaintance, with the exception of the
gallant Secretary's gaily braided affair (which, by
the by, was most unhappily contrasted with his
nether garments). Two of the party, if not all
four, were under thirty, — an age in a Chinaman's
eyes undeserving of respect.
We were received at the entrance of the
spacious court of the temple by a bevy of manda-
rins, from the blue to the brass button. Different
from us, they rustled in embroidered silks and
flowered muslin of a design and beauty of texture
worthy even to deck the forms of our own fair
dames. They marshalled us with many obse-
quious bows, and really much graceful courtesy,
into the great hall of audience, where Mr. Se-
cretary " Whang " and the Tartar General "Chin"
were standing to receive us. After Mr. Morrison
had severally introduced us, we sat down in chairs
that would have held two Daniel Lamberts,
round a square table, Whang opposite Malcolm,
I next to Chin, and Mr. Thorn opposite me.
II 3
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150
OFFICIAL. CONFERENCES. chap. x.
Mr. Morrison retired to another table to translate
some papers.
Whang, a man of seven or eight and thirty, is
considered one of the most rising statesmen in
China, and his manners and conversation marked
him a perfect gentleman. I do not remember
ever having met, even in my own country, a
person of more gentle and polished manner or
courteous breeding than this Chinese, so different
from the majority of his countrymen in their in-
tercourse with foreigners. The General was a
portly old veteran of about sixty, wearing a little
grey tufted beard, a plain dress, crystal ball, and
peacock's feather. His red ball had been taken
away for some offence shortly before our arrival.
The other mandarins stood round among the
servants, and listened, as is the universal custom,
to all that was discussed.
At the door were a few peace -keepers or police,
wearing red felt conical caps, each topped with
a cock's feather, which traversed round upon a
swivel. They were armed with cow-hide whips,
which they kept in pretty frequent use upon the
shoulders of the pressing and chattering rabble
outside.
While Mr. Morrison was transcribing copies of
his papers, tea was handed round by the attend-
ants, and whether drank or not, a hot cup every
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CHAP. Xi
OFFICIAL CONFERENCES.
151
two or three minutes superseded the colder be-
verage*
When the writing was finished, Malcolm pro-
duced the patent from her Majesty appointing him
Secretary of Legation : this was to show that he
was the accredited and proper person to nego-
tiate on the part of the Envoy. After this was
looked at, he displayed Sir Henry Pottinger's,
which was translated verbatim by Mr. Thorn, and
the Queen's seal and signature pointed out to the
deputies.
Major Malcolm then demanded to see the Em-
peror's commission, which, after some little delay
and great ceremony, was brought forth from a
chest by a mandarin, under whose special charge
it appeared to be. He carried the roll of yellow
silk in both his hands, and proceeded — his eyes
reverentially fixed upon it — with slow and so-
lemn steps towards the table, and placed it in the
hands of Whang with tenderness and forced re-
signation. The produce of the silk wrapper was
a little shabby yellow box badly made and worse
painted, containing the power, which Morrison
on examination pronounced, as far as he was able
to judge, authentic.
I was greatly amused watching the anxious and
horrified faces of the various Chinese when Mr.
Morrison touched the commission, and I thought
H 4
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152
OFFICIAL CONFERENCES. CHAP. X.
the old keeper would have fainted on the spot
when he, for an instant, held it in one hand.
In China the same respect is paid to an Im-
perial edict, or the mark of the vermilion pencil,
that, with us, the sovereign only receives in person.
There are many powers delegated by sign manual
throughout the empire, and in these cases the
same homage is bestowed upon the written name
of the Emperor, that is, in other countries, only
yielded to the prince himself. *
After our skeleton treaty was satisfactorily
arranged, and written both in Chinese and
English, one copy being kept by the mandarins,
the other by Malcolm, for Sir Henry's inspection,
we rose to depart, and the old General laughingly
remarked that the conditions were hard, but,
after all, were only what they would have de-
manded under similar circumstances ; that a war
between nations might be likened to a game of
chance, in which the loser must pay the winner ;
that this time they were the unfortunates, from
having neglected the art of war during centuries
of peace and prosperity ; that our ships were our
stronghold and glory, and had proved their curse.
In the evening I landed my pony, and rode
along the north bank of the canal for two miles,
* See Appendix.
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CHAP. X.
FLOODS.
153
in company with Dr. Woosnam. Owing to the
lowness of their situation, the cottages which
we saw were half flooded, and we surprised the
few remaining wretched inhabitants sitting before
their doors, after their day's labour in the paddy
fields, eating their evening meal. They sat stu-
pified and still as we passed, perhaps thinking
(and with justice) that no one, however reckless,
would take the trouble to molest either themselves
or dwellings which could produce so little.
We turned an angle, and could see for a con-
siderable distance along the extensive canal skirt-
ing the south-western wall. Several small punts
and fishing canoes were gliding about close to the
tall rushes, and a few old salt junks lay moored
along the shores, mastless and decayed.
We went to an isolated farm-house, built on a
knoll of ground somewhat higher than the sur-
rounding land, to light
" Sublime tobacco, which from east to west
Cheers the tar's labours, and the Turkman's rest,"
and saw evident marks of a flood having covered
at least four feet of its walls, in which case the
whole surrounding flat, from the walls of Nan-
king to the river, must have been entirely under
water, and this we afterwards ascertained to have
been the fact. They say that for the last ten
years the farmers of the low lands have had to
H 5
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154
CLIMATE.
CHAP. x.
live in boats during several months of each season
after the rains.
No people can be healthy who reside, as these
do, in the midst of the extensive decay of vegetable
matter which perpetually succeeds the rapid eva-
poration of stagnant water ; nor are they : putrid
fevers, cholera, and ague have, within the last few
years, carried off multitudes.
1 5th. — As the day broke, the stillness of
the heavy atmosphere became disturbed by fit-
ful gusts from the northern hills, and the sky,
for the first time since we anchored here, was
overcast with heavy masses of leaden-coloured
clouds, indicating, by their rapidly increasing den-
sity, a speedy thunder-storm, — an event long
wished for, as the only hope to stay the still
increasing cholera, by freeing the air from the
load of electric fluid.
It has long been a disputed point whether this
fatal illness is produced and spread by such a
state of the atmosphere, or by other causes
common to infection, nor do I, who am no judge,
venture to assert an opinion ; but it is a fact well
worthy of attention, that the surgeon of the flag-
ship, Dr. King, distinctly felt, in two instances,
a shock resembling that from a galvanic battery
on touching the pulses of the patients.
Our predictions were realised : thunder and
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CHAP. X.
THUNDER-STORM.
155
lightning, with heavy rain, lasted for about three
hours, leaving the atmosphere light and the air
cool and refreshing. The clouds rolled back to
the verge of the distant horizon, and the evening
sun shone with a tempered heat, more congenial
than it had hitherto been.
In no other portion of the globe have I ever
felt the temperature so oppressive as in this, or so
enervating in its effects on the energies both of
mind and body; and not even in more tropical
regions are the alternations so rapid and car
pricious. Upon any change of wind from the
regular monsoon (affected by such causes as the
above storm), the thermometer will full 12° in an
hour ; and a southerly breeze, on the other hand,
at this season, will raise it from its fall to 130° on
the hill-side or open plain, filling the air at the
same time with a weight of vapour from the
moistened fiats, which, during the nights, again
descends in heavy dews upon the thick grass and
abundant foliage, thus keeping it in perpetual
verdure.
All the central provinces are comparatively
champaign country, consisting of damp alluvial
loam, from which a constant vapour exhales in
sufficient quantity to destroy the freshness of the
southern monsoon*
The land and sea breezes that render the tem-
h 6
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156 SPORTING EXCURSION. chap. x.
perature of islands close to, and upon the equator,
delightful even to Europeans, are of course un-
known in the interior of China, where the air
becomes sluggish by passing for hundreds of miles
over plains teeming with vegetation, unbroken
by any mountainous ridge, whose snowy summits
might distribute healthy and refreshing gales.
16th. — To-day was the day appointed for
the first grand interview ; but owing to the time
required to write out our demands in Chinese, re-
view expressions, and so forth, it has unavoidably
been postponed.
In the forenoon I landed with Captain Trow-
bridge and Mr. Lay at the centre landing-place ;
the latter to collect insects and butterflies, while
we shot snipes.
We ranged among deserted cottages and se-
cluded glens, hitherto unvisited by any European.
There is something in this reflection which always
excites an alertness of observation, even when
there may be but little to satisfy the curiosity ;
and in this case the withdrawal of one's thoughts
from the busy scenes we left behind, to the close
examination of quiet, tranquil, and beautiful
nature, was beyond belief pleasurable.
The clean weeding of the fields, where we met
with them in the level bottoms of some of the
broader valleys, led to the conclusion that the
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CHAP. X.
THE BAMBOO. 157
labourers lay concealed in the vicinity. We
strolled to one very lovely spot — a little basin.
On its south side rose a round, happy-looking hill,
clothed with trees and shrubs — birch, fir, ash,
and the arbutus — from among which grey rocks
of granite protruded, half covered by flowering
creepers. We stood in the centre of a field of
melons. A little further on, on the same level, a
grove of chestnut and palm trees concealed the
opening into our retreat, while to the north,
opposite the hill, a large grove of bamboos — the
queen of all graceful plants — shot up straight
stems, their head shoots drooping like plumes of
feathers.
The Chinese have written as many rhapsodies
to the bamboo as to ladies' eye-brows — a favourite
theme of celebration — and by so doing they merely
evince a proper sense of gratitude ; for without
this most useful vegetable a Chinaman would be
as helpless as he would be without his chop-
sticks.
The bamboo furnishes both food and raiment,
the uprights of their houses, the beams, chairs,
tables, screens, mats, flower-stands, water-wheels,
drinking-cups, powder-horns, bottles, hats, baskets,
pumps, bellows, spears, sails, ropes, and many
other things, which, to enumerate, would fill a
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158
ANECDOTE.
CHAP. X.
Soup can be made from the shoots; for, as
the story goes *, " Mang Tsung, who lived in
the Tsin dynasty, when young, lost his father,
his mother was very sick ; and one winter's day
she longed to taste a soup of bamboo sprouts,
but Mang could not procure any. At last, he
went into the grove of bamboos, clasped the trees
with his hands, and wept bitterly. His filial
affection moved Nature, and the ground slowly
opened, sending forth several shoots, which he
gathered and carried home. He made soup of
them, of which his mother ate, and immediately
recovered from her malady."
There are numbers of these stories written
for the benefit of the rising generation.
We returned on board without adventure.
17 th. — Another change of wind, and some
more heavy rain ; diplomacy at a stand still, and,
for a wonder, on our side. The Chinese are
anxious and pressing to patch up differences, and
have the river open ; but it is necessary that great
care should be taken in the wording of our full
demands — Mr. Morrison's present difficult task
— as, he says, the omission of a single syllable
might change the entire sense of the sentence.
They do not conceal from us now their great
* Chinese Repos. Example of Filial Duty.
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chap. x. CHINESE DELEGATES. 159
anxiety for the speedy termination of the war.
Anarchy, discontent, and open revolt are daily
increasing; nor can the lawless outrages com-
mitted in the interior, by the gathering hordes
of plunderers, be suppressed until the garrisons
are left free to act, by a settlement with us.
IStk. — The breezes are moderate, and the
weather cloudy. Our demands were sent late
last night : — to-day they offered to embark one
million and a half of dollars, which Sir Henry
refused to receive until the treaty was signed.
They seem to think that money is our only
consideration — as the great "rebel-quelling Ge-
neral Yih-shan " wrote in his memorial to the
Emperor that " commerce is to these foreigners
the very artery of life:" — perhaps it is a dis-
agreeable fact
Malcolm met the delegates on board the Blonde
this afternoon for the last time. He told them
to inform the Imperial Commissioners that Sir
Henry would be ready for a conference to-
morrow, on Dc >ard the Cornwallis, and that the
day after he would return their visit within the
walls of Nanking. To this latter arrangement
they, in evident trepidation, instantly objected,
alleging, as an excuse, that they could not de-
pend on the forbearance of the Tartar troops,
all of whom were exasperated against us for
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160
FIRST INTERVIEW WITH
CHAP. x.
former defeats, and might do us harm; that if,
on the other hand, we were accompanied by a
strong guard, say 1000 men, an ebullition of
feeling might excite a collision, and thereby ef-
fectually destroy the present promising appear-
ances of a peaceful and lasting arrangement of all
our difficulties ; so this question is left for the
present in statu quo,
\§th. — The auspicious day has at last arrived,
when, as the Chinese say, " the powerful of
nations are to meet and exchange the fiery eye
of vindictiveness for the smile of kindness, and
the red hand of hostility for the white wand of
amity."
Between 11 and 12 a. m. the quarter-deck of
the flag ship presented an unusual glitter: gay
uniforms of blue and scarlet in their first fresh-
ness after months of veiled brightness had su-
perseded the honest habiliments of service dye.
A captain's guard was under arms, life lines on
the yards, and the little Medusa steamer off the
canal — all to do honour to our expected visiters.
Three guns, the Chinese royal salute, were to be
fired upon the embarkation of the Commissioners
from the wharf, and at the mouth of the canal
Commander Richards of the Cornwallis was sta-
tioned to take them from their unwieldy convey-
ance to the Medusa.
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CHAP. X. IMPERIAL COMMISSIONERS.
161
The guns at last announced the long-expected
moment ; and we could sometimes see, between the
trees and houses, banners, streamers, and silk
umbrellas waving about as the boat floated down
the stream.
Getting into the steamer, shod in their thick
Tartar boots, was to them a service of danger,
and which caused considerable delay. At last
they paddled up and came alongside from the
steamer in the Admiral's barge. The yards
were manned, guard presented arms, drums beat,
band played, and the Plenipotentiary, between
the two Commanders-in-chief, received Ke-ying,
Elipoo, and New-king the viceroy of the two
Yieng provinces, and Commander-in-chief of all
their armies.
A number of subordinate officers and attend-
ants, besides three or four mandarins whom we
knew from having been brought in contact with
them at Chusan and Ning-po, followed in their
wake. They presented in their flowing robes a
lively contrast to our close fitting and (I think)
ungraceful dress.
After a few of us had been presented the
authorities entered the Admiral's cabin, and were
ushered to a large sofa, placed to face forwards,
so that they might see every body and every
thing. Sir Henry sat on the left — the Chinese
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162 FIRST INTERVIEW WITH chap. X.
seat of honour — the General on the right, and the
Admiral as the host, I think, next to him. Tea,
coffee, wine, sweetmeats, and cherry brandy were
handed round, the last of which they greatly
appreciated.
As this was merely intended to be a visit of
ceremony, no questions relative to future arrange-
ments were mooted.
Ke-ying evinced considerable interest in all he
saw, although he never trespassed on good breed-
ing, or forgot what was due to his dignity, by
asking questions. Elipoo, who was upwards of
eighty, appeared fatigued, and his countenance
bore a sad expression of mental suffering, which
is not to be wondered at, poor old man, con-
sidering the many misfortunes and heavy dis-
pleasure of his Imperial master, that had arisen
to him out of his former intercourse with us.
New-king sat without showing any outward
or visible sign, beyond an occasional smack of
satisfaction after each glass of cherry brandy.
The General was as loquacious as on the
first occasion that I saw him, and pretended a
great interest in, and examined with a critical
inqusitiveness, every thing appertaining to the
art of war. The band elicited very great atten-
tion. The attendants outside were not so well
mannered as their masters : they became trouble-
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chap.X. IMPERIAL COMMISSIONERS.
163
some and familiar, after their short-lived bashf ill-
ness had worn off.
The Commissioners, at the Admiral's invitation,
walked round the various decks; and I was
somewhat amused to see that the men, to make
their messes look the smarter, had decorated the
shelves with small jos-images and a few other
articles of choice taste that they had picked up
in their perambulations. Well might the Chinese
have exclaimed with Samson,
" O indignity ! O blot
To honour and religion ! "
But they acted the wiser part of " laissez faire,
laissez passer ; w and even their noisy train were by
humbled vanity recalled to a temporary sense of
decorum.
No very marked interest was shown for any
thing but the music, which surprised me the
more, as both Sir John Barrow and Lord
Jocelyn particularly mention their apathy and
want of taste for harmony.
They left the ship as they came, and highly
pleased at their reception.
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164 TRIP TO THE DIDO. chap. XI.
CHAP. XI.
TRIP TO THE DIDO. SECOND INTERVIEW WITH COMMIS-
SION ERS.
20th of August — I embarked at daylight inaboat
to proceed to the Dido, at anchor about twenty-
five miles down the river — a little more than half
way between Chin-kiang-foo and Nanking.
The weather which had been foul all night
cleared towards morning, and in a boat the clouds
were preferable to a hot sun. A pleasant sail of
three hours carried me alongside.
I found my old shipmates suffering from fever
and ague, the prevailing disease. They told me
that for some days past they had remarked many
headless bodies floating past them ; these probably
were plunderers beheaded by the mandarins.
I shoved off about sunset to return to the
Cornwallis — a most tedious undertaking, with
a strong contrary current, and a foul wind against
us. About 9 P. M., after crossing the river, I
anchored close to the shore to rest the men. An
hour before daylight we again weighed — the
same foul wind brought down masses of black
clouds, which soon opened their torrents upon
us ; we had to anchor to hold our own ; and I
Digitized
CHAP. XI. RETURN FROM THE DIDO. 165
sat for two hours under the heaviest thunder-
storm it had ever been my lot to encounter,
contemplating my saturated books and baggage.
The current was hourly increasing in velocity
from the down-rush of the upland rains and the
eddies of still water close to the rushes decreasing
in proportion to the river's rise ; so we had nothing
for it but to make the essay, and for eight miles
along the even bank of a straight reach we had
inch by inch to strain our way.
" So the boat's brawny crew the currents stem,
And slow advancing struggle with the stream ;
But if they slack their hands or cease to strive,
Then down the flood with headlong haste they drive."
Drydbn.
This was literally our case, and a most disagreeable
one it was — foul winds, and a strong current over
twenty miles of ground.
By noon we doubled the point of the straight
reach, and stopped to rest at a jos house, where we
found some tea and a fire to warm us. I fancy we
were the first of our countrymen that had landed
at this place, as we perceived the women and
children in the adjoining village busy in their
ordinary pursuits.
We entered the Swallow's Nest creek by three
p. M., and I remained on board H. M.'s brig Al-
gerine all night, instead of toiling the remaining
six miles to the Cornwallis.
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166
SECOND INTERVIEW
CHAP. XL
22d. — The day appointed to return the visit
of the Commissioners, who were to receive us
in the temple where we first met their dele-
gates.
At 10 A. m. about forty boats shoved off from
different ships full of officers of both services, all
dressed in their full uniforms.
The Admiral's barge containing the Plenipo-
tentiary and the two Commanders-in-chief took
the lead — the others followed as they best could.
Vast numbers of Chinese lined the banks of the
canal, and accompanied us in their punts.
We landed at a wooden jetty thrown out for
the purpose, and passed under a bamboo gate,
decorated with a few red flags.
When our authorities stepped on shore three
guns were fired, to announce their arrival to the
Commissioners: they then entered sedan chairs,
and were escorted by subordinate mandarins to
the temple. About a dozen other chairs were in
attendance, and to them a charge was made by
officers of all ranks resembling in dignity and
activity that which the members of the House of
Commons occasionally make into the House of
Lords, when they are summoned there to hear
an address from the throne — the younger, and
consequently the junior officers, gained the day,
The Commissioners received Sir Henry Pottin-
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chap. xi. WITH COMMISSIONERS. 167
ger and the Commanders-in-chief at the entrance
of the court-yard, and led them between ranks
of unarmed Chinese soldiers, clothed in new uni-
forms, while the Plenipotentiary's guard of honour,
formed of the grenadier company of the 18th
Royal Irish, and drawn up in front, presented
arms. The band of the same regiment struck up
" Garryowen," while the penny-trumpets and
hurdy-gurdy8 of the Chinese were in full force ;
but the drummer with the big drum, who had an
ear for music, took care we should not hear a
single note of the tune they played.
Two large apartments were prepared, and tables
spread with piles of sweetmeats. Chairs placed
in the form of a horse-shoe stood round the tables,
while the centre ones, occupied by our chiefs,
were elevated above the others.
Our vanity prompted us to think that the
Chinese could not feel much humiliation at having
been conquered by the description of men they
this day saw before them : there were upwards of
one hundred and thirty officers, besides the guard,
which was worthy of the distinguished regiment
it belonged to.
This visit passed off in the same manner as the
first; namely, in drinking tea, asking questions,
and making complimentary speeches.
The rooms were hung with festoons of em-
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168
SECOND INTERVIEW
CHAP. XI.
broidered cloth ; round horn lanterns, as large as
half-hogsheads, made of one entire piece *, prettily
painted and decorated with strings of beads, and
hung from the roof. The floors were carpeted
with red drugget, and the tables and chairs
covered • with scarlet cloth richly embroidered
with silk.
The numerous mandarins were plainly dressed,
which caused an inquiry on the part of the Envoy,
and apologies from the Commissioners, who as-
serted that the rapid dance we had led them
prevented them carrying an extensive wardrobe.
This could not have been true, as they travelled
by water, and brought with them large establish-
ments.
23d. — The Chinese are gaining confidence,
and abundance of bullocks have been, by request,
sent to the fleet : they are fatter, and apparently
of a different and a finer breed, than those we
ourselves have at different times procured.
26th. — This was the day fixed upon for the
interview between Sir Henry Pottinger and the
Commissioners, to discuss and finally arrange the
conditions of the treaty.
The Plenipotentiary and his suite, consisting
of Major Malcolm, Doctor Woosnam, Messrs.
* The separate pieces of horn are consolidated by the
action of heat.
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chap. xi. WITH COMMISSIONERS.
169
Morrison, Gutzlaff, and Thorn (the three inter-
preters), besides Mr. Eastwick, a friend of Sir
Henry's, and myself, proceeded in the Admiral's
barge up the canal to the appointed landing
place, where we were met by a detachment of
Tartar cavalry and a number of mandarins of
rank. Horses provided by the artillery were in
waiting, as also the Envoy's guard of honour.
Sir Henry landed under a salute of three guns,
and a band struck up which set our teeth on
edge. The horse artillery admirably mounted
upon Arabs preceded the Plenipotentiary, while
the Tartar cavalry brought up the rear, their
silk gowns and shaggy ponies offering a striking
contrast to our fine fellows. We entered the first
gate we came to, opening to the N. W., and
passed for about a mile up a long street leading
to the southward, after which we turned to the
left, and, lastly, to the right into the street where
the large government building, appropriated to
the interview, was plainly observable from the
numerous flags and mandarins in front of it.
Without dismounting, Sir Henry was con-
ducted up the long enclosed entrance of the outer
court, and up the steps of the second (a royal
honour) to the door of the third, where the
Imperial Commissioners were standing, surrounded
by their high officers and functionaries. We
I
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170
SECOND INTERVIEW
CHAP. XI.
were received with much dignified courtesy, and
conducted through several rooms and passages of
this immense house into the chamber of audience
— a square apartment, partitioned by a horse-shoe
railing, round which were placed chairs fronting
tables, loaded with sweetmeats of every descrip-
tion. The tables and chairs were covered with
red embroidered drapery, and the floor with
crimson drugget. The bottom of this room opened
into a court which was canopied by a chequered
silk awning.
A more tolerable band than we had yet heard
commenced, as we sat down, a tune resembling a
pibroch, and continued to play throughout the
repast. Young white-buttoned mandarins handed
round tea, hot wine, and sweetmeats, while a
conversation upon general subjects was main-
tained between the Commissioners and Sir Henry
through the medium of the interpreters.
Numerous patties of minced meat, pork, arrow
root, vermicelli soup, with meat in it, pig's ear
soup, and other strange dishes, were served in
succession, in small china and silver basins, and in
proportion to our various capabilities in making
these messes disappear, we seemed to rise in the
estimation of the beholders. But human nature
could not support this ordeal long, and, as a coup
de grace, Ke-ying insisted upon Sir Henry opening
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CHAP. XL
WITH COMMISSIONERS.
171
his mouth while he with great dexterity shot into
it several immense sugar-plums. I shall never
forget Sir Henry's face of determined resignation
after he found remonstrances were of no avail;
nor the figure of Ke-ying, as he stood planted
before him, in the attitude of a short-sighted old
lady threading a needle, poising the bonne bouche
between his finger and thumb preparatory to his
successful throw.
After this the tables were cleared and business
commenced.
The demands, written in both languages, were
again read ; and, with the exception at first of a
slight demur at our detention of Chusan as a
guarantee until the full payment of the 21,000,000
of dollars, and a wish to exclude Foo-choo-foo from
free trade, were unanimously agreed to. The com-
missioners were made perfectly to understand that
the final settlement of the tariff, residence of English
families in the various towns and their vicinities,
the future management of commerce through our
own consuls, and the entire abolition of the Hong
monopoly, were points only delayed in conse-
quence of the time it would require to discuss
their minutiae in detail, but that they were of
such vital importance that if, when they were
brought forward, any procrastination or refusal
should occur, it would effectually interrupt the
i 2
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172
SECOND INTERVIEW CHAP. XL
amity so auspiciously commenced between the
two empires.
None of the critical examination into phrases
or expressions, so keenly canvassed and sus-
piciously viewed by European diplomatists, occu-
pied a moment of their attention. All their
anxiety, which was too powerful to be concealed,
was centred upon the one main object — our im-
mediate departure ; in consequence, almost in the
same breath with their assent, they requested the
Plenipotentiary to remove the ships away from
the canals and to send them down the river. To
this the Envoy replied that, upon the treaty being
signed, the blockade would be removed, and when
the last dollar of the first instalment of six mil-
lions was paid, every town and fort within the
Yang-tze-kiang would be delivered back into
their hands.
Sir Henry then remarked, that as every differ-
ence was satisfactorily arranged, he was anxious
to say a few words upon a subject — the great
cause that produced the disturbances which led
to the war — he meant the trade in opium.
When this was translated, they unanimously de-
clined entering upon the subject, until Sir Henry
assured them he did not wish to speak of it but
as a topic of private conversation. They then
evinced much interest, and eagerly requested to
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CHAP. XI. WITH COMMISSIONERS.
173
know why we would not act fairly towards them,
by prohibiting the growth of the poppy in our
dominions, and thus effectually stop a traffic so
pernicious to the human race. This, he said, in
consistency with our constitutional laws, could
not be done ; and he added, that even if England
chose to exercise so arbitrary a power over her
tillers of the soil, it would not check the evil so
far as they (the Chinese) were concerned, while
the cancer remained uneradicated among them-
selves, but that it would merely throw the market
into other hands.
It, in fact, he said, rests entirely with your-
selves. If your people are virtuous, they will
desist from the evil practice ; and if your officers
are incorruptible, and obey their orders, no opium
can enter your country. The discouragement of
the growth of the poppy in our territories rests
principally with you, for nearly the entire produce
cultivated in India travels east to China ; if, how-
ever, the habit has become a confirmed vice, and
you feel convinced that your power is at present
inadequate to stay its indulgence, you may rest as-
sured your people will procure the drug in spite of
every enactment ; would it not, therefore, be better
at once to legalise its importation, and by thus
securing the co-operation of the rich, and of your
authorities, from whom it would thus no longer
I 3
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174
ND INTERVIEW
CHAP. XL
be debarred, thereby greatly limit the facilities
which now exist for smuggling ?
They owned the plausibility of the argument,
but expressed themselves persuaded that their Im-
perial master would never listen to a word upon
the subject.
To convince them that what he said was not
introduced from any sinister wish to gain an end
more advantageous to ourselves, he drew a rapid
sketch of England's rise and progress from a
barbarous state to a degree of wealth and civilisa-
tion unparalleled in the history of the world;
which rapid rise was principally attributable to
benign and liberal laws, aided by commerce,
which conferred power and consequence. He
then casually mentioned instances of governments
having failed to attain their objects by endeavour-
ing to exclude any particular article of popular
desire : tobacco was one of those he alluded to ;
and now that it was legalised, not only did it pro-
duce a large revenue to the crown, but it was
more moderately indulged in in Britain than else-
where.
Mr. Gutzlaff, a perfect master of the Chinese
language, was the interpreter, and performed his
part well. The Commissioners and surrounding
mandarins seemed greatly interested.
The Plenipotentiary also said, that he thought it
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chap. xi. WITH COMMISSIONERS.
175
probable that, upon the return of the treaty from
England, an envoy might be deputed to Pekin,
and he wished to know if he would be received
with satisfaction and proper respect ?
Ke-ying immediately replied with earnestness,
that he was sure the Emperor would be very glad
to receive an embassy, and took that opportunity
to express his sorrow at the treatment Lord
Amherst had met with, which he stated was
caused by the machinations of a corrupt set of
ministers then in office.
Shortly after this we took our leave ; and when
Sir Henry mounted another salute was fired from
two rude pieces about the size of 4-pounders,
made from iron bars, hooped together and planted
perpendicularly on their breech. The crowd was
greater than upon our approach, but silent and
orderly.
Elipoo, who appeared very weak and unwell
during the conference, requested Dr. Woosnam
to prescribe for him. It appeared that, added to
old age, he was suffering from violent attacks of
fever, ague, and the liver; and from these he
desired to be speedily relieved. The doctor said
he would prepare medicines if a messenger was
sent to the ships with us to take them back.
Accordingly a mandarin of the name of Chang, a
notorious drunkard, was ordered to accompany us.
i 4
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176 EXCUBSION TO NANKING. chap. xu.
CHAP. XII.
EXCURSION TO NANKING. MAUSOLEUM OF THE EMPERORS
OP THE MINO DYNASTY. PORCELAIN PAOODA. DE-
SCRIPTION OF NANKING. RETURN TO THE FLEET.
VISIT FROM THE IMPERIAL COMMISSIONERS. SIGNING
OF THE TREATY.
28th of August — Last night Captains Boucher
and Watson of the Blonde and Modeste, with
Lieut. Hall of the Nemesis, Mr. Eastwick and
myself, rode over to the artillery camp, four miles
through a pretty country, with woody knolls and
valleys rich with gardens and fields of grain and
vegetables. For a time we rode by the side of
the moat and fine old wall, and occasionally
through shady lanes, not unlike those in our own
country.
At 4 A. M. we started for the porcelain pagoda,
one of the most celebrated shrines and tallest
towers in China. Our party consisted of twenty-
five, besides a host of servants and coolies ; and,
as one of our number remarked, looked so formi-
dable, that, as we passed beneath the walls, soldiers
were seen hurrying to close the gates and man the
ramparts.
Digitized by^^^^le
chap. xn. EXCURSION TO NANKING. 177
The morning was delightful — a true eastern
sun-rise —
" Clothing the palpable and the familiar
With golden exhalations of the dawn."
We were mounted upon ponies brought from
Amoy and Chin-kiang-foo, strong, sure-footed
animals, and vastly improved since they had fallen
into our hands.
After riding over a plain of paddy fields, and
through a village situated at the entrance to a
defile, and partially screened by trees, we as-
cended the ridge of an eminence (three and a half
miles from camp) commanding the N. E. angle of
the wall, whence we viewed the Tartar quarter of
the city. A second wall surrounds the space
where formerly stood the royal palace and
gardens, now the Tartar garrison — the houses are
almost hid by foliage. Beyond the inner wall
we saw but few Chinese houses.
Proceeding onwards we came upon a burial
ground situated at the corner of a vast plain,
bounded on the one side by the spreading base of
the hill from which we had descended, and facing
the walls of the capital. Near the foot of the
grassy slope, at about the centre of the hill, a
large jos house stands fronting an avenue of
colossal granite figures of men and animals,
I 5
Digitized
178 MAUSOLEUM OF EMPERORS chap. Xtt.
extending in a semicircular sweep for about a
mile, to two square, brick, Egyptian-shaped
buildings, which are hollow, open on each side,
and empty. These, we were told, were the
tombs of the emperors of the Ming dynasty ; but
our guide also said, that there was a large ex-
cavation in the rock behind the jos house con-
taining coffins ; so I fancy that it must be the
place of general interment, and that the huge
figures were merely intended to dignify the
approach to the cemetery. We had not time to
visit the jos house, but we trotted our startled
horses between these silent guards, and examined
with great interest the sculpture of a departed
age — they are about three times the size of life.
A tablet gate marks the commencement of the
avenue ; then in succession appear two upright
shafts of granite in single blocks, four warriors
dressed in long loose shirts of scale armour,
leaning with folded hands upon their swords,
(they front each other, as do all the statues,) next
to them, lions, bears, horses, camels, elephants,
and so on to the two buildings, a repetition of
the same figures, each alternate pair (with the
exception of the men) crouching. Most of them
have been hewn into shape from single blocks :
they rest upon flat slabs of granite, on un-
levelled ground, and, strange to say, although
centuries have passed since they were first placed
Digitized
CHAP. xn»
OF THE MING DYNASTY.
179
there, no weeds are growing around, nor have
they sunk three inches.
The elephants are accurately shaped, and fairly
sculptured; the rest are all most rudely exe-
cuted.
We rode close under a portion of the old wall,
which we computed to be seventy feet in height :
three sides are protected by the deep broad canal ;
the fourth and eastern by stagnant ponds opposite
the points most accessible.
We passed through several villages, all with
their shops open and filled with staring crowds.
We took them by surprise; and the loud
babble which we had heard at a considerable
distance hushed, on our appearance, into perfect
silence : every occupation was instantly sus-
pended, and every eye in the thronged streets
turned upon us in grave wonderment and appre-
hension.
We crossed the canal twice over low stone
bridges. Two of the city gates were open close
to where we passed, and from them, as the
rapid intelligence of our approach spread, issued
thousands: they pressed upon our rear, and
blocked by numbers every lane and avenue, but
left our front entirely open.
We had seen the pagoda over the S. W. angle
of the city wall for some miles before we turned
i 6
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180 POBCELAIN PAGODA. chap, xn,
the corner : when this point was passed, it stood
forth to our view, uninterrupted from ball to base
by a single intervening object: it more than
realised our expectations.
It is an octagonal building of nine stories, rising
to the height of 261 feet; bright with many-
coloured porcekin, which throws off a glittering
light like the reflected rays from gems : it is in
perfect preservation.
The porcelain is fastened to the tower with
mortar, as Dutch tiles are upon a stove, ex-
cept the projecting cornices and bas reliefs of
grotesque monsters, which are nailed. The
various colours are white, yellow, red, and green ;
the roofing tiles are all of the imperial yellow.
It stands in a spacious court, surrounded on
three sides by a wall, the fourth open to two
extensive nights of granite steps descending to
the jos house attached to the pagoda facing the
town. Another large enclosure planted with
regular rows of trees extends to the road and
suburbs.
The projecting flanges, if I may so term them,
of the separate stories curve upwards at the
points, to which are suspended bells of size pro-
portioned to the taper of the tower. A priest
assured me that when they were first hung up,
after the complete repair of the paouta, or pagoda,
Digitized by Google
chap. Ml. PORCELAIN PAGODA.
181
in the last century, they used to ring forth
charming melodies at the command of the mistress
of the tower, " the Queen of Heaven," until she,
wrathful at the indifference and falling off of
her followers, in a fit of anger, deprived them
of sound. The greater portion are certainly
tongueless, and all of them cracked, which is
not surprising, for the bells and cast gongs in
China (made of the same metal) are very brittle,
from the absence of an adequate proportion of
alloy.
After we had tethered our horses in the court-
yard, away from the immense and momentarily
increasing crowd, we entered the pagoda by the
principal door in front of the flight of steps,
and found ourselves in an extensive octagonal
corridor surrounding the body of the building,
which is square and elaborately ornamented with
figures of the Budha faith in bas relief — the
whole profusely gilt: each story contained a
shrine with the universal idol, the sitting figure
of " the Queen of Heaven."
A single door under the niche, in which the
principal deity was placed, leads into a square
chamber in the shaft of the building, occupied by
another image. The walls are all lined with
square porcelain tiles, each separate one em-
bossed with a small device in the centre : those
Digitized
182
DESCRIPTION OF NANKING. chap. xn.
upon the ground-floor are entirely covered with
gilding. The others of the eight upper stories
differ, by having a black edging round the gilded
device, which has a good effect : the concluding
step of each story is of stone, the flooring and
stairs of wood.
The ample view from the summit surpassed our
expectations. Facing the south, a little river from
the distant hills came winding like the Forth near
Stirling: it passes by the south and western
walls, and helps to supply the canal with water.
Towards the S. W., as far as the sight could reach,
flowed the princely Yang-tze-kiang, leaving be-
tween us and it, as it passed Nanking, a richly
cultivated flat of paddy land about three miles in
breadth. Facing the north, we looked down
upon the walls and roofs of a dense cluster of
houses — the Chinese city ; through the centre
eastward, ran a canal. The streets seemed very
narrow; the buildings principally of two low
stories; and upon every slight rise of ground public
temples, granaries, and government offices, sur-
rounded by spacious yards or courts, were dis-
cernible.
Half way between the pagoda and extreme
eastern wall the town is bounded by trees and
gardens, fields, woods, and grassy plains, over
which are scattered a few large public buildings:
this scenery extends to a belt of wood which
Digitized
chap.xii. DESCRIPTION OF NANKING. 183
screens the north and eastern wall from view.
Further to the right the features of the scenery
are slightly altered by the inner wall of the
Tartar city, within which little can be seen for
dense foliage ; and the distance being greater, we
saw less of it from our present stand than from
the hill in the morning. From that point we
plainly saw the site of the ancient palace and
gardens inhabited by the race of Ming, the citadel,
assembly house, and esplanade of the present
garrison.
The walls are built of brick, of an average
thickness of 25 feet at the top, and 60 at the
bottom, and vary from 35 to 90 in height. In
places they are built against the escarped sides of
hills, where they cross the even ground and over
the dips : they are as high inside as on the out ;
this we could distinctly see from our position.
They are built, like those at Chin-kiang-foo, of
brick, propped by earthen banks. Round their
whole extent tents were pitched ; and where the
natural defences were not so good, and opposite
the gates, these were very numerous. From our
position we looked down upon a guard-house full
of troops, all staring up at us; their gingals,
matchlocks, bows and arrows, and quick-lime,
were piled in readiness under cover of a shed.
When we first appeared, the soldiers clustered
Digitized
184 DESCRIPTION OF NANKING. chap. xn.
round their arms, and seemed to meditate revenge
for former defeats. We mustered amongst our
party two swords and a pistol, besides the knives
and forks.
The present walls of Nanking encircle an un-
dulating plain, and are bounded on three sides by
hills of irregular height, and on the fourth by the
river. They form an irregular pentagon : the old
walls extend far beyond the present range ; they
can be traced but with difficulty ; and it is asserted
that they passed for fifty miles over hill and dale.
The new ones, by our rough calculation, measure
22 miles, and have nine gates; seven into the
Chinese, two into the Tartar city.
On the top of the highest pagoda in China
we drank the health of our Queen in champagne,
which our coolies had brought with other good
things from the camp. Our tiffin was cooked on
the green under the gaze of many thousands.
The foremost ranks of the crowd at one time
became so curious to examine the contents of the
pots and pans that our fellows had to use rope's
ends to save us the pain of fasting. To my great
astonishment they bore the blows most good-
humouredly, and afterwards kept a more respectful
distance.
During our meal the chief priest came to see
us. His high and narrow forehead, straight nose,
Digitized
chap, ml VISIT FROM THE CHIEF PRIEST. 185
and well-formed mouth, showed no indication of
Tartar blood. His head was closely shaven, and
he wore a long full gown of black silk. His
manner was good, and his demeanour modest:
he welcomed us to his temple, drank our healths
in our own wine, and was greatly taken with two
empty beer bottles, which we made him a present
of. In exchange, we procured some impressions
of the pagoda upon thin paper, with a history
attached in Chinese, of which I give a translation
in the Appendix.
We rode back the way we came, attended
through the suburbs by an immense, but silent,
crowd : sulky faces there were in abundance, but
none gave vent by expression or gesture to their
bitter feelings.
As we repassed the colossal figures before the
tombs of the ancient dynasty of Ming the de-
clining sun shed a golden light upon the summits
of Chung-shan. A bank of copsewood darkened
the breast of the mountain, and threw out in fine re-
lief the yellow tints of the parched plain upon which
the grey granite figures stood. It was impossible,
while gazing upon the memorials of a royal and
by-gone race in the heart of the empire which
once they governed, not to feel the scene most
forcibly.
The prospect itself was very fine ; and in the
Digitized
186
RETURN TO THE FLEET. CHAP. xn.
uncertain light of the evening impressed me with
mingled emotions of grandeur and of beauty. The
colours, tints, regularity, and fine, yet subdued,
proportions, of the landscape, and the huge monu-
ments of art, were beautifully blended, and at the
hour the whole wore an appearance almost of
sublimity — the grand repose of Michael Angelo
combined with (in faultless nature) the gentle soft-
ness of Raphael.
We arrived at camp after dark, and sufficiently
tired to defy a legion of mosquitoes eagerly
awaiting our resignation to the arms of Morpheus.
The naval portion of the party returned to the
ships early on the 29th, to be in time to see the
Commissioners sign the treaty on board the
Cornwallis. On my way I called on board the
Queen, and saw the Emperor's letters, which had
arrived the evening before, assenting (with the
exception of free trade with Foo-choo-foo, and
which Sir Henry overruled) to all the articles in
the rough draft which had been forwarded for his
inspection. Although there were perhaps a few
objectionable expressions, showing that the leaven
of ancient arrogance was not extinct, it neverthe-
less, from the first word to the last, evinced deep
consciousness of fallen power.
Ke-ying and New-king came on board about
eleven o'clock in the Admiral's barge; Elipoo
chap. xii. VISIT FROM COMMISSIONERS. 187
followed in a large boat of his own. The poor
old man was much debilitated in consequence of
the mandarin who was sent to the Queen for
the medicines having got very drunk and lost the
prescription. Afraid to confess his delinquency,
he told Elipoo he was to take all the pills and
liquids at once : the result was very apparent ;
he had to be carried into the cabin, and recline
upon a sofa during the whole interview. He
thanked the doctor for his treatment, and trusted
that the cure would be as certain as the remedy
was violent.
The Commissioners were received with all due
honours ; but our officers were ordered to put on
their undress uniform, in consequence of the Chi-
nese having appeared on both previous occasions
in their ordinary robes.
There were four copies of the treaty written in
both languages, under separate covers : the ends
of the riband which tied them together were
sealed to the paper ; so that, without cutting it,
no sheet could be abstracted — not an unlikely
thing to be attempted by these slippery gentlemen
to blind the eyes of their Imperial master.
From a square box covered with yellow silk
the Treasurer Whang took his writing-pencils,
ink, and the official seal of the Viceroy : it was
an agate about three and a half inches long by
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188
SIGNING OF THE TREATY. chap, xii.
two broad : this was pressed against a pad satu-
rated with red lead, and then applied to the paper.
The three Commissioners signed their names under
the impression, and thus ratified the Plenipoten-
tiary's first and last demands.
It was a glorious spectacle for all who saw it.
Two hundred miles within their greatest river,
under the walls of their ancient capital, in the
cabin of a British 74, the first treaty China was
ever forced to make was signed by three of her
highest nobles under England's flag.
After this they entered the fore-cabin to take
refreshments. The Admiral gave the health of
their Majesties, the Queen of Great Britain and
the Emperor of China; upon which a royal salute
was fired.
They went away at last, doubtless with humble
pride, but just satisfaction at having saved their
ancient city, and perhaps their monarch's throne ;
but long will it be, if ever, before his complete
supremacy will again be felt ; long will it be
before the lament of the fatherless, the anarchy
and starvation, or the misery of the houseless
wanderers over the richest portion of his vast
empire, will be a forgotten tale.
Digitized
chap. xni.
KE-YING.
CHAP. XIII.
THE IMPERIAL COMMISSIONERS, KE-YING, ELIPOO, AND
NEW-KINO. — DEPARTURE FROM NANKING GREAT
8IZE OF YANG-TZE-KIANG.
The mandarins who were so intimately connected
with us during the latter period of my stay with the
expedition deserve a more detailed notice than has
hitherto been bestowed upon them ; and although
my information may, in some minor points, be in-
correct, I can vouch for the general accuracy of
the slight sketches I shall give of the three prin-
cipal men.
Ke-ying or Kih-ying, the chief Commissioner,
well deserves the gratitude of his country and
kindly feeling and respect from us.
A Manchow Tartar of the Imperial kindred,
born near the northern frontier of the empire,
his profession from youth upwards has been one
of arms : in it he rose by bravery and conduct to
be generalissimo of the Tartar army. This post
with those of Tsung-shin (viceroy) of the province
of Kirin, and Se-ang-keun (guardian of the heir
apparent), confined him to the court and frontiers,
Digitized by Google
190
KE-YING.
CHAP. XIII.
so that he never had an opportunity of joining in
warfare against us, or doing aught besides ten-
dering his counsel, and arranging the necessary
supplies and reinforcements.
But at last, plainly perceiving that a true, un-
garbled statement of the direful losses of the
Chinese had never reached the Imperial ear, he
determined to quit his high appointments and
repair to the scene of action, to see and faithfully
report thereon at every risk.
I believe he reached the province of Kiang-su
shortly after Chin-kiang-foo was taken. He had
prepared himself to expect a partial stoppage of
internal commerce, a stagnation of trade, a certain
depression of spirits, and a loss of self-confidence
from constant defeat ; but he never contemplated
the utter paralysation of all energy, the apathetic
torpor which had succeeded the first paroxysm of
fear and despair, that he met with among the mul-
titudes unhoused both by us and the native banditti.
He did not fail to perceive that the principal danger
to be apprehended by his countrymen, if the war
should continue, was from their own rabble, who
had availed themselves of the interruption of all con-
stituted authority, caused by our successes, to as-
semble from every direction, to enter cities, throw
open state prisons, plunder the treasuries, destroy
the granaries, and commit every enormity. He
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chap. xra.
KE-YING.
191
saw that unless a speedy peace was concluded the
fall of Nanking would be inevitable, and that the
safety of the empire itself would become precarious.
He thus felt the full necessity of showing his Im-
perial master the danger in its gloomiest colours,
knowing that until he viewed it thus he never
would agree to do what he considered the deepest
degradation — sue for peace. Ke-ying also knew
the great risk that he himself would incur by being
the first man to hazard a narration of the truth,
but this did not deter him: — he informed the
Emperor of all that had been before concealed from
him — of what they had to expect from a con-
tinued resistance, and transmitted a faithful copy
of our demands, including a clear and capital letter
from Sir Henry Pottinger, in answer to one from
himself sent to Chin-kiang-foo, requesting an in-
terview.
Fortunately for his head and the lives of thou-
sands, the Emperor was convinced, and by return
of courier he received full powers to associate
himself with Elipoo.
His age may be between sixty and seventy : he
is a stout, hale, good-humoured-looking old gen-
tleman with a firm step, and upright carriage. At
first we were prejudiced against his intellectual
endowments, but when business commenced, he
threw off his apparent dulness, and became ail
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192
ELIPOO.
chap. xm.
animation, and evinced considerable shrewdness
and observation.
He wore a dark silk dress without embroidery,
girded by a yellow belt, the indication of his
high birth, and a summer cap with a red opaque
ball and peacock's feather.
He was vested with the rank of Imperial Com-
missioner, with plenary powers : — Kin-chai-peen
e ping sze ta chin — literally, "imperially appointed,
convenient, proper to act business, great minister?
If Ke-ying deserves the lasting gratitude of his
country, poor old Elipoo has an equal right to
ours, as the preserver of the lives of Major An-
struther and others of our countrymen, at the risk
of his own popularity, besides his unvarying kind-
ness and care for all the prisoners who fell into his
hands, which humanity eventually excited the sus-
picions of his master, who in consequence deprived
him of the government of the province of Tseen-ko.
Amiable as wise, he was one of those high
officers who inclined to the pacific counsels of
Ke-shan ; and knowing what misery a war would
entail, was willing to trust to the equity of our
first demands rather than hazard an accumulation
of evils and ill feeling, without a prospect of gain-
ing any satisfactory result, knowing that the evil
which they fought with one hand to expel was
grasped with greater tenacity by the other.
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chap. xin.
NEW-KING.
193
Elipoo is a Tartar of the Imperial clan Hong-
tai-tze, literally " red girdle," a mandarin of the
first rank and button, Taon-yih-ping-tang-tai,
entitled to wear the peacock's feather Nwa-ling *,
a lieutenant-general of Chapoo, previously a vice-
roy, Tseen-ko-tuh-foo-tang — member of the
privy council, Nuy-ko-chung-tang.
New-king is a man who from his youth upwards
has been devoted to self-indulgence : at one period
to such an extent of extravagance did his habits
carry him, that his emoluments and large fortune
were completely absorbed, and he was, it is said,
reduced to a state of beggary. Under these cir-
cumstances he had recourse (while any stock in
hand lasted) to the pawn shop, until he was in
the condition of Chaucer's knight —
" All his means of living gone,
Ermine, mantle had he none ;
And in pawn had long been laid,
Cap and mantle of brocade ;
Harness rich, and charger stout,
All were eat and drunken out."
In this state, while his coffers required no lock
and key, some unforeseen good fortune, the ori-
gin of which my informant was not able clearly
to explain, brought him again into notice, and
* This decoration was worn by Elipoo, Ke-ying, and
New-king, as well as by Whang, the treasurer, the Tartar
General, and Chun, prefect of Ning-po.
K
Digitized by Google
194 NEW-KING. chap. xm.
he now is president of the board of war, Ning-
foo-shang-shoo ; viceroy of the provinces of Keang-
nan and Keang-see, Leang-keang-toung-tuh-foo-
tang ; and was beaten by us while in command of
the Imperial troops at Woo-sung; from the field of
which really well-fought battle he affirms he was
borne away in the arms of his faithful attendants,
in spite of his earnest remonstrances.
He is certainly the least intellectual looking of
the three, has an elongated face with swollen lower
eye-lids, colourless, unfirm flesh, and hanging
cheeks — his whole appearance strongly indicative
of his mode of life. He wore the same dress and
button as the other two, with the exception of the
red and yellow girdles.
Whang, the treasurer, is the person whom I
have mentioned before as having been sent by the
Commissioners to negotiate the preliminary ar-
rangement of the treaty : he is considered one of
the most rising young men in China. He wore a
blue ball and peacock's feather.
Chun, prefect of Ning-po, is the officer who
planned and attempted the destruction of our
garrison at that place. He attacked us during
the night, and was repulsed with great slaughter.
He was very kind to Major Anstruther during
his imprisonment, and has the reputation of being
an able magistrate ; he also was decorated with
Digitized by Google
chap. xra. AUTHOR LEAVES NANKING. 195
the peacock's feather, and wore a white crystal
button over the usual red tassel, made from the
hair of the yack, or grunting ox (the hair from the
tail of this animal is also much used for pennons
to their spears and banners).
After the treaty was signed the Plenipotentiary
permitted travellers to cross the river, but the
blockade was to continue until the first instalment
was paid.
Boats full of fruit, vegetables, china ware, and
visiters flocked alongside the nearest ships, and
comparative animation was restored to the scene.
On the 31st of August, 1842, I wished my
kind and gallant Commander-in-chief, Sir William
Parker, good-by, and embarked on board the
H. C. S. Tanasserim, and commenced the descent
of the magnificent river.
I cannot bid farewell to it without attempting
to do it justice by placing it in its proper position,
as one of the largest rivers of the first class.
It is believed by some of our best geographers,
that in consequence of its source issuing from
mountains, and its course traversing countries
outside the tropics, away from the influence of
the regions of rain, which lie under the equa-
tor, its volume cannot be in proportion to its
great length, as the waters from the melting of
K 2
Digitized
196
GREAT SIZE OF chap. xm.
the snow and periodical rains never accumulate
into such a body as those fed by the tropical
rains.
This admitted hypothesis renders the great size
of the Yang-tze-kiang still more extraordinary,
presenting by our casual measurement of depth,
breadth, and rapidity of current, a volume of
water second only to the Amazon and the
Orinoko. This fact may, upon farther examin-
ation, be found to arise from some great tributary
coming from the S. W.
At the mouth the Yang-tze-kiang is inferior,
both in breadth and depth, to several streams of
a less actual magnitude. Its estuary measures
about sixty miles, and the average depth over the
mud bar is scarce six fathoms. But yet eighty
miles higher up, a body of water, eight miles
broad, and sixty feet deep, rolls towards the
ocean at the rate of five miles an hour: 200
miles from the sea, off the walls of Nanking, the
breadth is 3600 feet, with an equal depth of
twenty-two fathoms from within fifty paces of the
northern shore to the rushes on the southern.
The Amazon, rising from among the western
mountains on the broad shoulder of South Ame-
rica, receives the tribute of all the streams as
it descends in a parallel latitude towards the
Atlantic : it is the drain to the lower lands, satu-
Digitized by Google
CHAP. XIII.
YANG-TZE-KIANG.
197
rated by, perhaps, the heaviest and most continued
rain in the universe ; in shape, like a huge pine,
its expansive mouth is in itself a sea, and
throws forth its waters unmixed for miles into
the ocean.
The Cambajor and Irrawaddy, although of
greater length, have less magnitude of waters than
the Ganges, the Indus, or the Brahmaputra,
which are fed by the rains drawn down from the
humid clouds of the ocean, carried by the S. W-
monsoon over the peninsula of Hindostan.
So we find this Chinese river, of the first mag-
nitude, the exception to the rule.
The Yang-tze-kiang (as far as we have ascer-
tained) free for 2000 miles of broken and abrupt
descents, uninterrupted by impediments, unfiltered
for 3000 miles by any dividing branch, pours on
through peopled countries, filling streams so nu-
merous that they and their inland contributions
are the high roads supplied by nature — the ways
of transport for surrounding millions. Within
150 miles from its mouth, the artificial banks
alone protect the flat alluvial country from inun-
dation. Sluices and canals drain off the river
water for many miles for the purposes of agri-
culture. The porous earth, which for the benefit
of the young rice is kept almost continually
K 3
Digitized
198 GREAT SIZE OF YANG-TZE-KIANG. chap. xra.
flooded, aided by the sun's powerful rays, absorbs
a vast quantity of its waters, and may, I imagine,
be one great cause why the depth at the mouth
does not correspond with the great profundity
and volume to be met with higher up in this
great river.
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APPENDIX.
E 4
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APPENDIX.
IMPERIAL EDICTS.
By a national statute it is required that the sacred
edict, containing sixteen maxims written by the Em-
peror Kang-he, be proclaimed throughout the empire
by the local officers on the 1st and 15th of every
moon. The manner of doing this is thus described in
the under-mentioned authority * : —
" Early on the 1st and 15th of every moon, the
civil and military officers, dressed in their uniforms,
meet in a clean spacious public hall. The Superin-
tendant, who is called Le-sang, calls aloud, * Stand
forth in files;' they do so according to their rank : he
then says, 1 Kneel thrice and bow the head nine times
they kneel and bow to the ground with their faces
towards a platform, on which is placed a board with
the Emperor's name. He then calls aloud, * Rise and
retire ; ' they rise and all go to a hall or kind of
chapel, where the law (sacred edict) is usually read,
and where the military and people are assembled,
standing round in silence. The Le-sang then says,
' Respectfully commence ; 1 the Sze-keang-sang, or
orator, advancing towards an incense altar, kneels,
• See Chinese Repository, vol. i. p. 299.
K 5
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APPENDIX.
reverentially, takes up the board on which the maxim
appointed for the day is written, and ascends a stage
with it. An old man receives the board and puts it
down on the stage fronting the people ; then com-
manding silence with a wooden rattle which he carries
in his hand, he kneels and reads it. When he has
finished, the Le-sang calls out, " Explain such a maxim
or section of the sacred edict/ The orator stands up
and gives the sense, namely, rehearses the amplification
or paraphrase, or both. We take the sixteen maxims
in their order, copying them from the translation : —
" 1. Pay just regard to filial and fraternal duties,
in order to give due importance to the relations of
life.
" 2. Respect kindred, in order to display the ex-
cellence of harmony.
" 3. Let concord abound among those who dwell
in the same neighbourhood, in order to prevent litiga-
tions.
" 4. Give the chief place to husbandry and the
culture of the mulberry tree, in order to procure
adequate supplies of food and raiment.
" 5. Hold economy in estimation, in order to pre-
vent the lavish waste of money.
" 6. Magnify academical learning, in order to direct
the scholar's progress.
" 7. Degrade strange religions, in order to exalt
the orthodox doctrines.
" 8. Explain the laws, in order to warn the ignorant
and obstinate.
" 9. Illustrate the principles of a polite and yielding
carriage, in order to improve manners.
" 10. Attend to the essential employments, in order
APPENDIX.
203
to give unvarying determination to the will of the
people.
"11. Instruct the youth, in order to prevent them
from doing evil.
" 12. Suppress all false accusing, in order to secure
protection to the innocent.
" 13. Warn those who hide deserters, that they
may not be involved in their downfall
" 14. Complete the payment of taxes, in order to
prevent frequent urging.
" 15. Unite the paon and kea*, in order to extir-
pate robbery and theft.
" 16. Settle animosities, that lives may be duly
valued."
PORCELAIN PAGODA.
COMPILED FROM A COLLECTION OP SKETCHES BY
KINLUNG, IN WHICH IS A REPRESENTATION OF A
TEMPLE DEDICATED TO THE HONOUR OF BUDHA.
" That at as remote a period of the world as the
reign of Sun Woo, the great Emperor, this temple
was erected, and at successive periods additions and
repairs were made from time to time. Originally
the temple occupied a small square space of ground
called Soo-Leung, but the priest Lew-Lung, O, ob-
tained a grant of land, in extent 1000 le, within
which space its limits were to be confined. The
Emperor Wan-te, of the Tsin dynasty, having at
• Ten families form a kea, and ten keas constitute a paon.
1
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APPENDIX.
this time made an addition to it, it took the name
of Chang-Tseen-Sze, and during his reign it was
raised to the height of three stories. In the reign
of Kaon-Tsung (or the first emperor), of the Tung
dynasty, extensive repairs were made, and the name
altered to Teen-He- Sze (the temple — the delight of
heaven). In the reign of Kien-Tih, the founder of
the Sing dynasty, the -name was altered to that of
Teze-Gan-Tsung-Chung (the temple conferring fa-
vours, imparting faith and charity). During the reign
of Yung-Lo (eternal joy) the Empress caused to he
commenced the northern wall of the enclosure as an
offering, and the work continued till the 1st day, 8th
moon, 6th year of Seun-Tih — a period of 19 years.
" The boards of works then caused a detailed
plan of the structure to be printed ; its height being
32 ehangs*, 9 covids, 4 puntos, and 9-lOths of a
punto, and its roof surmounted by a ball, both of
which were covered with brass plates of an endless
brightness. On the roof of the ninth story project
dragons' heads, in whose mouths are attached ten
chains which ascend to the apex of the roof, each
having 72 links : above and below, at the eight
corners, the chains amount to 80 in number, making
a total of 152 ; while on the outside of the nine stories
there are stands or supports for 128 lamps ; within,
each chamber, and also the centre of the roof, are sup-
plied with glazed horn lanterns ; the quantity of oil
required to fill them being 64 catties (81 lbs.), and the
brilliant appearance they create ascends to the heavens.
The apex is surmounted by a copper ball, whose
* A chang is thirteen feet.
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APPENDIX.
205
weight is 900 catties (1200 lbs.): it contains a dish
for sacrifice, and it is of the weight of 450 catties
(600 lbs.). From the east, looking towards the sea ;
from the south, where is the garden of the Tung-Foo ;
towards the west, where is the bridge called the Le-
pin ; and towards the north, where is the great river
(Yang-tze-kiang), the distance is 9 le, 13 poos (about
2£ miles).
" From the reign of Yung-Lo, when it underwent a
thorough repair, an hundred ages have experienced
its benefits, protection, and favour ; it is therefore
called Paon-Gan-Sze (the temple of the protecting
favour). From the first story throughout the building,
the whole cost of labour has amounted to 2,485,484
tales (equal to about 3£ millions of dollars). On the
roof stretching up to the apex are nine iron rings, the
largest of which is 6 changs 3 covids (about 75 feet) in
circumference, and the smallest 2 covids 4 puntos, the
entire weight being 3600 catties (4800 lbs). It has a
beam in the roof which shines during the darkest
night ; one that keeps off danger from fire ; another
from water ; and one that defends it from the violence
of the winds ; while a fifth guards against the effects
of earthquakes. In the same place, the roof, there is a
gold rod of the weight of 40 tales, tea leaves one
bushel, silver 1000 tales, a mirror weighing 100
catties, a gem of great value, cash of the reign of
Yung-Lo, 1000 strings, silk of the Imperial yellow two
pieces, one collection of the chemical works of the
king, or holy book of Fo, one copy, and two or three
treating of the religion of Budha ; — all these relics
are in the roof.
" Now in the 5th year of the reign of Kea-king,
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APPENDIX,
during the 5th moon, 15th day, the God of Thunder
caused it to be injured in three places, and at the
same time the whole of the nine stories received
damage. Really was the strength of the gods mani-
fested with fearful awe and severity : the idols (not
being susceptible to injury from causes which affect *
material objects) were untouched.
" The governor and Foo-Yeun (deputy-governor)
then in a clear and luminous communication repre-
sented to the throne the extent of the disasters, and
solicited workmen to repair it. In the 7th year of
Kea-king, 2d moon, 6th day, they commenced, and
having thoroughly repaired and beautified the temple,
they ceased work on the 2d day of the 6th moon, since
when it has undergone no change."
TREATY OF PEACE
CONCLUDED BETWEEN ENGLAND AND CHINA.
The following are the most important provisions : —
1. Lasting peace and friendship between the two
empires.
2. China to pay twenty-one millions of dollars in
the course of the present and three succeeding years.
3. The ports of Canton, Amoy, Foo-choo-foo, Ning-
po, and Shang-hai, to be thrown open to British
merchants ; consular officers to be appointed to reside
at them, and regular and just tariffs of import and
export (as well as inland transit) duties to be esta-
blished and published.
APPENDIX.
207
4. The island of Hong-Kong to be ceded in per-
petuity to her Britannic Majesty, her heirs and sue-
5. All subjects of her Britannic Majesty (whether
natives of Europe or India) who may be confined in
any part of the Chinese empire to be unconditionally
released.
6. An act of full and entire amnesty to be published
by the Emperor, under his Imperial sign-manual and
seal, to aU Chinese subjects, on account of their having
held service, or intercourse with, or resided under the
British government, or its officers.
7. Correspondence to be conducted on terms of
perfect equality amongst the officers of both govern-
ments.
8. On the Emperor's assent being received to this
treaty, and the payment of the first six million dollars,
her Britannic Majesty's forces to retire from Nanking
and the Grand Canal, and the military posts at Ting-
hae to be also withdrawn ; but the islands of Chusan
and Kolongsoo are to be held until the money pay-
ments and the arrangements for opening the ports be
completed.
Dated on board her Majesty's ship Cornwallis, in
the Yang-tze-kiang river, off Nanking, this
30th day of August, 1842.
(Signed) Henry Pottinger,
Her Majesty's Plenipotentiary.
(A true copy.) G. A. Malcolm,
Secretary of Legation.
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208
APPENDIX.
TOPOGRAPHY OF KIANGSU. *
BOUNDARIES AND SITUATION OF THE PROVINCE; ITS
AREA AND POPULATION ; DEPARTMENTS AND DIS-
TRICTS ; RIVERS, LAKES, MOUNTAINS, PRODUCTIONS,
ETC.
Formerly, and until the peaceful and prosperous
times of the present dynasty, the provinces of Kiangsu
and A'nhwui were united in one, under the name of
Kiangnan ; so they are described by Du Halde, and
often so spoken of at the present day. Thus, the
government of the Liang Kiang includes, together
with these two provinces, that of Kiangsi. The pro-
vince is bounded on the north by Shantung ; on the
east by the sea ; on the south by Chekiang ; and on
the west by A'nhwui and Honan. Its shape, on
native maps, is rhomboidal, with the longest sides
running from the north-west to the south-east, and the
shortest from east to west. The extreme north is in
lat. 35° 10', and the southern limit in lat. 31° 20',
giving an extent of 3° 50' from north to south ; in
longitude it extends from 5' to 5° 5' east from Peking.
Of the line of coast little is known, except that it is
studded with the low islands and sand banks, evi-
dently formed by the disemboguement of the two
great rivers, the Yangtsz' kiting and the Yellow River.
Commencing at the north-east on the sea, following
closely the line of demarcation, you run first north-
west, then west, and round the south, crossing and
twice recrossing the river Mu ; thence due west across
• From the Chinese Repository, April, 1842.
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APPENDIX.
209
seven small streams, and then turning short to the
south you run down to and over the Grand canal;
going on a little to the south, you then turn to the
north-west, and sweep around to the south-west, to the
Yellow River. Thus far you have Shantung on one
side of the line. On the south of this river, for a
short distance, perhaps fifty miles, the province borders
on Honan, and the line runs from the north-west to
the south-east. It now separates this province from
that of A'nhwui, and runs first east, then south, and
again east, or rather south-east ; and in this direction
it continues on to the sea, dividing Kiangsu from
Chekiang.
Its area must be nearly that of Chekiang, which has
been estimated to contain 39,150 square miles, making
25,056,000 English acres. The population is much
larger than that of Chekiang, being put down at
37,843,501 souls.
Kiangsu is divided into twelve departments, and
sixty-seven districts — it having 8 fu, 1 chili ting, and
3 chili chau, with 2 ting, 3 chau, and 62 hien — the
names of which are as follows, taken from the imperial
authority.
I. Kidngning fu, or the department of Kiangning,
includes seven districts. Its chief city is situated in
lat. 32° 4' 30" N., and long. 2° 18' 34" E. of Peking,
and 118° 43' 34" E. of Greenwich.
4. Kiiyung,
II. Suchau fu, or the department of Suchau, in-
cludes ten districts. Its chief city is situated in lat.
1. Shangyuen,
2. Kiangning,
3. Kaushun,
5. Kiangpu,
6. Lishui,
7. Luho.
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210 APPENDIX.
31° 23' 25" N., long. 4° 0' 25" E. of Peking, and 120°
25' 25" E. of Greenwich.
1. Wu Men, 6. Changshu,
2. Changchau, 7. Chauwan,
3. Yuenhd, 8. Kwanshan,
4. Wukiang, 9. Sinyang,
5. Chintse, 10. Taihu ting.
m. Sungkidng fu, or the department of Sung-
kiang, includes eight districts. Its chief city is situ-
ated in lat. 30° N., and long. 4° 28' 34" E. of Peking,
and 120° 53' 34" E. of Greenwich.
1. Hwating, 5. Kinshan,
2. Lau h ten, 6. Shanghai,
3. Nanhwai, 7. Chuensha ting,
4. Funghien, 8. Tsingpu.
IV. Changchau fu, or the department of Chang-
chau, includes eight districts. Its chief city is situ-
ated in lat. 31° 50' 36" N., long. 3° 24' 17" E. of
Peking, and 1 19° 49' 17" E. of Greenwich.
1. Yanghu, 5. Kinkwei,
2. Wutsin, 6. Wuyang,
3. rhing, 7. Kiangyin,
4. Kingki, 8. Tsingkiang.
V. Chingkidng fu, or the department of Chinkiang,
includes four districts. Its chief city 'is situated in
lat. 32° 14' 26" N., long. 2° 55' 43" E. of Peking, and
1 19° 20' 43" E. of Greenwich.
1. T&ntu, 3. Kintan,
2. Tanyang, 4. Liyang.
VI. Hwatan, fu, or the department of Hwai'an,
includes six districts. Its chief city is situated in lat.
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APPENDIX.
211
33° 32' 24" N., long. 2° 45' 42" E. of Peking, and
119° 10' 42" E. of Greenwich.
1. Shanyang, 4. A'ntung,
2. Yenching, 5. Tsingho,
3. Fauning, 6. Tauyuen.
VII. Ydngchau fu, or the department of Yang-
chau, includes eight districts. Its chief city is situ-
ated in lat. 32° 26' 32" N., long. 2° 55' 43" E. of
Peking, and 119° 2tf 43" E. of Greenwich.
1. Kiangtu, 5. Pauying,
2. Kantsiuen, 6. Hinghwa,
3. I'ching, 7. Tungtai,
4. Kauyu chau, 8. Tai chau.
VliL Suchau fu, or the department of Siichau,
includes eight districts. Its chief city is situated in
lat. 34° 15' 8" N., and long. 0° 57' E. of Peking.
1. Tungshan, 5. Yangshan,
2. Shuining, 6. Fung hien,
3. Sutsien, 7. Pei hien,
4. Siau Aim, 8. Pei chau.
IX. Hdimun ting, or the department of Haimun.
has only one district,
Haimun.
X. Hdi chau, or the department of Hai, includes
two districts. Its chief city is situated in lat. 34°
327 24" N., and long. 2° 55' 47" E. of Peking.
1. Muyang, 2. Hanyti.
XI. Tung chau, or the department of Tung, in-
cludes two districts. Its chief city is situated in lat.
32° 3' 40" N., and long. 4° 12' 42" E. of Peking, and
120° 37' 42" E. of Greenwich.
1. JUkau, 2. Taihing.
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APPENDIX.
XII. Tditsdng chau, or the department of Ta.itsa.ng,
includes four districts.
1. Chinyang, 3. Paushiin,
2. Kiating, 4. Tsungming.
The latitude and longitude of some of the chief
towns of this province have not been ascertained, or,
at least, have not been given by any Europeans.
However, they are marked on the Chinese maps with
sufficient clearness to enable us to describe their posi-
tions accurately enough for the general reader.
1. The department of Kidngning includes the ancient
Nanking, or the Southern capital — once the most ce-
lebrated city of China, whether regard be had to its
extent, its buildings, its manufactures, or the cha-
racter of its inhabitants. The department comprises
seven districts ; two of them, Shangyuen and Kiang-
ning, have the residences of their chief magistrates
in the provincial capital : Kuyung, the chief town of
the district of the same name, and the residence of its
chief magistrate, is situated on the east of the depart-
ment ; Lishui and Kaushun are on the south ; Kiangpti
is on the west ; and Luho is on the north. This de-
partment forms the south-west portion of the province ;
on the north and north-east it is bounded by the de-
partment of Yangchau ; on the east by that of Chin-
kiang ; and on the west and south by the province of
A'nhwui. Its greatest extent is from north to south.
The Yangstz' kiang flows tlirough it, so dividing it that
about one third of its area is on the northern, and the
rest of the department on the southern bank of that
majestic river.
The members of Lord Amherst's embassy are, we
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APPENDIX.
213
believe, the only foreigners who have visited Nanking
in modern times; and it is from their writings that
we select most of the few particulars wliich we have
to give regarding that city. It stands on the southern
bank of the river, and distant from it about three
miles. Several canals lead from the river to the city,
and also one road, on which some of the members
of the embassy walked to the northern gate : this
gate is a simple archway, thirty-five paces broad,
the height of the wall forty feet, and its width
seventeen. Mr. Ellis, and three of the other gentle-
men of the embassy, succeeded in passing completely
through the uninhabited part of the city, which at
present seems to comprise much more than half of the
whole area within the walls. The outline of the city,
as marked by the walls, is very irregular, approaching
to a right-angled triangle, the southern wall being the
base, and the western the perpendicular, nearly twice
the length of the base. Mr. Ellis and his friends
visited one of the vapour-baths, " where," he says,
" dirty Chinese may be stewed clean for ten fsien, or
tliree farthings each : the bath is a small room of one
hundred feet area, divided into compartments, and
paved with coarse marble : the heat is considerable ;
and as the number admitted into the bath has no limits
but the capacity of the area, the stench is excessive."
Another gentleman of the embassy, Mr. Poole, says the
outermost of the three compartments was lined with
closets for the reception of the clothes of bathers, who
undressed in this division of the establishment. The
closets were all ticketed. One was called the bath of
fragrant waters. The two other divisions of the
buildings were beyond the first : the largest, on the
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APPENDIX.
right hand, containing three baths, about six feet in
length, and three in width and depth. " At the time
of our visit they were filled with Chinese, rather
washing than bathing themselves, who stood upright
in the water, which was only a few inches deep, and
threw it by turns over each other's backs. There
appeared no intention of renewing the water, thus
become saturated with dirt, for the use of many other
Chinese who waited their turn in the outer apartment.
The steam arising from it, however fragrant to the
senses of the Chinese, was to mine really intolerable,
and drove me away before I could ascertain in what
manner the baths were heated. I just looked into the
adjoining room, and found it furnished with matted
benches, and that it was used by the bathers to dry
themselves in before going to dress in the outer apart-
ment." The walls of Nanking, judging from a speci-
men carried away by Abel, are built of grey compact
limestone, which he says frequently occurs in quarries
in its neighbourhood. Mr. Davis speaks of a striking
resemblance between the city of Nanking, with the
area within the walls but partially inhabited, and
ruins of buildings lying here and there, and that of
Rome. Le Comte's account of the Porcelain pagoda
may be found in the first volume of the Chinese Repo-
sitory, p. 257.
II. The department of Suchau is nearly square ; it
lies on the south of the Great River, and extends
southward from it to the province of Chekiang, having
the departments of Taitsang and Sungkiang on the
east, and that of Chdngchau on the west. The magis-
trates of three districts have their residences at Suchau :
these districts are, Changchau on the east, Yuenho on
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APPENDIX.
215
the west, and Wuhien in the middle between the two.
From Suchau, the chief town of the department, the
districts of Kwanshan and Sinyang lie on the east,
their chief magistrates both (judging from the map)
residing in one city; the districts of Wukiang and
Chintse lie on the south, their magistrates likewise
both dwelling within the same walls ; the district of
Taihu is situated on an island in the Great Lake, and
hence its name (Taihu ting) ; the remaining two dis-
tricts, Changshu and Chauwan, are situated on the
north of the department, their chief magistrates re-
siding in one and the same city, near the " Great
River," — as the Yangtsz* kiang is emphatically and
very commonly called.
" Above," say the Chinese, " there is paradise (or
the palace of heaven) — below are Su and Hang ; "
t. e. the cities of Suchau and Hangchau. All that
was said, in the last number, in praise of Hangchau,
may be said, with equal propriety, of Suchau. We
subjoin, however, some additional particulars, collected
from one of the histories of the department : the work
is called " Suchau fu Chi," and is comprised in forty
octavo volumes, making eighty-two chapters, besides
long and laboured introductions.
Among the remarkable things noticed in these in-
troductions are the siun hing, or " imperial visits," — if
we may translate the phrase by giving its equivalent,
instead of the literal sense of the two words : siun
means to go round, as a circuit judge, and as the em-
peror used to do on tours of inspection ; king means
to bless, as the emperor does any and all places that
he visits. Kanghi twice visited Suchau ; once in the
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APPENDIX.
23rd year of his reign, and again in the 28th. Kien-
lung also visited the city repeatedly.
Chapter 1st comprises several maps, showing the
shape of Suchau, the city, and the whole department,
with all its districts and principal rivers and lakes :
it also contains kit kin yuen ke pidut — a list of all the
ancient and modern names which the place has had at
different times ; with yuen ke chdng tsie> — minute and
clear explanations of the reasons for these changes.
Its most ancient name was Ydngchau, and it was then
without the pale of civilisation ; subsequently it Was
called Wu. This name it bore in the times of the
Three Kingdoms.
Chapter 2nd comprises two topics : the first is fan
ye sing kwei ; the second is tsidng t. The phrase fan
ye sing kwei has reference to that part of the heavens
under which the place is situated, and its bearing in
regard to the sun and other celestial bodies. Under
the second phrase, tsidng f, are noticed in clironological
order all the strange and ominous occurrences that
have happened at Suchau — such as eclipses, falling
stars, appearances of comets, earthquakes, famines,
plagues, locusts, inundations, hurricanes, remarkable
births, talking dogs, strange sights, miraculous events,
fruitful seasons, droughts, running and falling of
mountains, square eggs producing a monkey, &c.
Chapter 3rd gives the kidng yi, and king shing,
shape of the department.
Chapter 4th details the particulars of the ching
chi, cities and moats, giving their dimensions, gates,
&c.
Chapter 5th enumerates and describes, first, the kun
chu> governmental offices ; and then the tsdng yi,
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AFPENDIX.
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granaries, and goveramental post-office or caravan-
saries.
Chapter 6th describes the hidng tu, large and small
villages ; and the shl chin, markets, marts, &c.
Chapter 7th enumerates the fang hidng, streets,
lanes, of various sorts and dimensions.
Chapter 8th gives the names of all the kidu Hang,
bridges ; and kwdn tsin, passes.
Chapter 9th gives the names of the shdn fau, hills
and mountains.
Chapter 10th describes the shut tdu, water courses,
such as lakes, rivers, canals, &c.
Chapter 1 1th is occupied with the Ad king, or form
of the rivers, giving their dimensions, &c.
Chapters 12th to loth are occupied with the shui H,
or water privileges.
Chapters 16th to 19th contain lists of the chi kun,
office-bearers, through all the successive dynasties.
Chapter 20th contains the hu kau, or censuses, ex-
tending from the Chau dynasty downwards.
Chapter 21st relates to the fung su, or manners and
customs of the people.
Chapter 22d enumerates the wu chdn, productions
of all sorts, animal, vegetable, mineral, and manufac-
tured.
Chapters 23d to 26th relate to the Hen fu, taxes of
various kinds.
Chapter 27th relates to those classes of persons
called ydu yu, who are employed by the officers of
government, as messengers, keepers of prisons.
Chapter 28th describes the institutions of learning,
called hid hidu, which terms include colleges, and all
the minor schools.
L
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APPENDIX.
Chapters 29th to 34th relate to suen kii, the selected
and elevated men, who are chosen for high service in
the government.
Chapter 36th relates to the military defences, the
ping fang, i. e. soldiers, &c.
Chapters 36th and 37th describe the various kinds
of sacrificial rites, under the head of teJ saf.
Chapters 38th to 40th relate to te* khwdn, the reli-
gious houses, such as temples, monasteries, &c.
Chapter 41st relates to ti tee, the dwellings of the
people, describing their situation, &c.
Chapter 42d is filled with notices of the yuen ting,
gardens, pavilions, arbors, &c.
Chapter 43d contains notices of the chung mil,
graves, tombs, &c, of distinguished persons.
Chapter 44th relates to ku tsi, the antiquities of
various kinds, such as monuments, pagodas, and the
like.
Chapter 45th contains notices of literary productions,
under the head of i wan.
Chapters 46th to 53rd are filled with hwdn tsi, or
reminiscences of those who have served the state.
Chapter 54th contains fung tsid, or lists of those
who have been honoured with titles : it is a chapter
on heraldry.
Chapters 55th to 66th contain lie chuen, or memoirs
of distinguished men.
Chapter 67th contains notices of hdu yiu, persons
distinguished for their filial duty.
Chapter 68th contains notices of chung i, or those
who have distinguished themselves by loyalty to the
state.
Chapters 69th and 70th relate to wan hid, the
literature and its authors.
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APPENDIX.
219
Chapter 71st relates to the wu lid, or military men,
heroes of all ranks.
Chapter 72nd relates to liu yu, sojourners and resi-
dents, persons who have come from other parts of the
empire to reside in this department.
Chapter 73rd relates to tu king, private actions, or
notable deeds performed in private life.
Chapter 74th gives notices of yin yi, hermits, re-
cluses, &c, who, though possessing ability, chose to
live in retirement.
Chapter 75th relates to hau fiy queens and imperial
ladies of all ranks.
Chapters 76th and 77th notice lie nii, eminent
women, such as have in any way distinguished them-
selves by their good conduct.
Chapter 78th relates to the % shu, or fine arts,
painting, and the like.
Chapter 79th describes the Shi Tdu, the religious
sects of Budha and the Tauists.
The remaining chapters, 80 to 83, are filled with
miscellaneous notices, under the head of tsdh ki.
This brief outline of the Statistical History of Su-
chau will afford the reader some idea of the manner in
which all things belonging to that department are de-
scribed. Every province, and almost every department
and district in the empire, has its statistical history, in
which, as in the one above noticed, a great amount of
information is collected and arranged. Volumes of
historical, statistical, and descriptive information, re-
garding Suchau, might be compiled; but these mis-
cellaneous notices are all that we can now give.
III. The department of Sungkidng comprises eight
districts — one ting and seven hien. It forms the
L 2
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220
APPENDIX.
south-east portion of the province, and is of a trian-
gular shape, having Taitsang chau on the north, the
sea on the east and west. The districts Hwating and
Lau Men have the residences of their chief magistrates
at the city of Sunghiang. North-east from this city
are Shanghai and Chuensha ; on the east is Nanhw&i ;
on the south-east is Fung hien; Kinshan is on the
south; and Tsingpu on the north. Shanghai ranks
among the largest and richest commercial cities in the
empire.
IV. The department of Chdngchau is of a square
form, having Tungchau on the north, Suchau on the
east, Chekiang on the south, and Chinkiang on the
west. Nearly one third of its area is covered with
water, the Great River passing through it on the north
side, and one half or more of the Great Lake lying
within its southern border. The chief magistrates of
Yanghu and Wutsin have their residences at Chang-
chau : north from this city, and on the northern bank
of the Great River, is Tsingkiang ; on the east are
Kiangyin, close on the southern bank of the Great
River, and Kinkwei and Wuyang, the chief magistrates
of the last two both residing in one and the same city ;
on the south are the departments Iliing and Kingki.
V. The department of Chinkiang is a narrow strip
of territory, stretching from the Great River on the
north to the province of A'nhwui on the south, having
the department of Changchau on the east, and that of
Kiangning on the west. The district of Tantu has the
residence of its magistrate at the city of Chinkiang,
close on the southern bank of the Great River ; Tan-
yang is also not far from the Great River, south-east
from Chinkiang ; Kintan is near the middle of the de-
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APPENDIX.
221
partment ; and Liyang is near the southern border.
Du Halde says this department " is one of the most
considerable, on account of its situation and trade,
being one of the keys of the empire towards the sea,
and at the same time a place of defence, where there
is a strong garrison."
VI. The department of Hwai'an extends from the
mouth of the Yellow River, along both its banks, to
the western banks of the lake Hungtse. Its chief city
" is in imminent danger of being drowned," for the
ground on which it stands is lower than the canal,
which in several places is supported only by banks of
earth : " six miles off," says Du Halde, " it has a
borough named Tsingkiang pu, which is as it were the
port of the Yellow River, large and populous ; and
there resides the surveyor-general of the rivers." The
department contains six districts : the magistrate of
Tanyang resides at Hwai'an ; north from this city is
A'ntung ; to the north-east from it is Fauning ; east
is Yenshing; west and north-west are Tsinghd and
Tanyuen.
VII. The department of Ydngchau is likewise an
extensive region, bounded on the north by Hwai'an, on
the east by the sea, on the south by Tungchau and
Chinkiang, on the south-west by Kiangning, and on the
west by A'nhwui. It is nearly square in its form, and
no inconsiderable portions of its surface are covered
with water. It comprises eight districts : two, Kiangtu
and Kantsiuen, have the residences of their chief ma-
gistrates at Yangchau, which stands not far from the
northern bank of the Great River ; 1'ching stands near
it to the south-west ; the Great River forms the south-
ern boundary of these three districts. Directly east of
L 3
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*
222 APPENDIX.
Yangchau is the district of Tai or Tai chau ; farther
towards the north-east is Tungtai. Hinghwa stands
in the centre. On the north is Pangying ; and on the
west Kauyu chau : in this name, and Tai chau, the
last character or syllable, chau, does not constitute a
part of the name, but is merely an equivalent for hien,
a district.
Vm. The department of Siichau comprises eight
districts, including the whole north-western part of the
province, on both sides of the Yellow River, west of the
department of Hawi'an. There are four districts on
the south side of the river; Tungshan, the seat of
whose chief magistrate is at Siichau, stands midway
between the extremes of the department ; north-west
from thence is Siau Men and Yangshan ; and in the
opposite direction to the south-east is Suining. On
the northern side of the river, to the north-west and
east, are Peichau and Sutsien.
IX. The department of Hdimun is geographically
described by its name, which, literally translated, means
the marine gate, or gate of the sea. It is an island,
and stands in the mouth of the Great River, north-west
from the greater island of Tsungming.
X. The department of Hdi is bounded by Shantung
on the north and north-west, on the east by the sea, on
the south by Hwai'an, and on the west by Siichau. On
the west and south-west the river Mu forms the
boundary of this department, or runs very near it
making a right angle at its south-west extreme.
XL The department of Tung is of a triangular shape,
situated on the northern bank of the Great River, at
its mouth ; so that the sea forms one of its sides, the
river another, while the third side is bounded by the
Digitized by Google
APPENDIX. 223
department of Yangchau. The cliief towns of both of
its districts stand some distance removed from the
chief town of the department : the latter is on the
south, Jiikau is on the west, and Taihing is on the
north-west of the department.
XII. The department of Tditsdng stands on the
southern bank of the Great River, at its mouth, opposite
to the department of Tung on the northern bank. It
has four districts : Chinyang'on the west ; Kiating and
Paushan on the south and south-west ; and Tsungming
stands on an island of the same name ; and it was
there that midshipman Hervey was killed, and a site
near which he fell is now called Hervey Point. Du
Halde, speaking of the island, says that it has three
kinds of soil : the first is on the north, wholly uncul-
tivated, and covered only with reeds ; the second ex-
tends from the first to the sea on the south, and yields
two crops annually ; the third " consists of a greyish
sort of earth, dispersed, by spots of the bigness of two
acres, over several parts of the island on the north ; it
yields so great a quantity of salt, that those of the con-
tinent are supplied with it, as well as the islanders. It
is pretty difficult to account whence it is that certain
portions of land, scattered here and there over the
whole country, should be impregnated with salt to
such a degree as not to produce a single blade of grass ;
while at the same time the lands contiguous to them
are very fertile, both in corn and cotton. It often
happens also that the fertile lands, in their turn, become
salt, and the saline lands fit for sowing."
Probably no territory in the world, of similar extent,
is better watered than the province of Kuingsu. The
Yangtsz' kiang, the Yellow River, and the Great Canal,
■
Digitized by Google
224
APPENDIX.
a vast number of lesser streams and branches, with
several extensive lakes, afford easy communication by
water through almost every part of the whole province.
The list of rivers, if made complete, would far exceed
that given for Chekhing. But we shall not, in this
article, attempt to give an account of them in detail.
The entrance of the Yangtsz' kiang was quite unknown
to European navigators, previously to the surveys
which were published in the last volume. We trust
that all who may have the means of acquiring addi-
tional information, will kindly communicate such for
our pages. The embassies of Macartney and Amherst
traversed the province, and both on the same course
from the frontiers of Shantung to the Great River :
there Macartney's turned to the left, and passed on to
Hangchau ; while the second turned to the right, and
proceeded up the Yangtsz' kiang. To the several
volumes written by the members of those two embas-
sies, our readers are referred for many valuable notices
of men and things seen in their journeys. — Staunton,
vol. ii. p. 398., &c. ; Ellis, p. 194. ; Abel, p. 148. ; and
Mr. Davis's new work, noticed in a former number.
There are no mountains, and but few hills, in
Kiangsu, the whole province being for the most part
one unbroken plain.
The productions are quite the same as those already
enumerated as found in Chekiang, — certainly they
are no less in number nor inferior in quality. To
Europeans the province presents a rich field for re-
search and observation, regarding the country and its
products, the people and their manufactures. Dreadful
indeed must be the desolations in this province, if it
becomes the theatre of war, as very likely it may in
Digitized by Google
APPENDIX.
225
the coming season. Most of its large cities, and they
are many, can be approached by small vessels and
steamers ; whilst vessels of the largest class can, it is
believed, move up the Great River quite across the
province ; and those of the middling class, with the
steamers, will probably have no difficulty in reaching
the great lake Poyang.
CAPTAIN GREY'S OBSERVATIONS.
The Grand or Imperial Canal has, as far as I could
ascertain, three communications with the Yang-tse-
keang from the southward. The principal and western-
most, after passing under the southern and western
walls of Chinkeang-foo, runs through the suburb, and
enters the river half a mile below Golden Island ; the
second is eight miles below, at Santoo, where the canal
approaches to within a quarter of a mile of the river ;
and the third is a few miles lower down ; but the canal
having been staked at Santoo, I was prevented from
examining it. Between Santoo and Chinkeang it
passes through an undulating country; its breadth
varying from 70 to 90 feet, the banks rising in many
places from 30 to 40 feet, and its depth varying from
9 to 15 feet. It is in two places, near the south and
west gates, contracted by stone buttresses to little
more than 20 feet in width, and at the gates it is
crossed by stone bridges, so that it is not navigable by
large junks. Whether the branches below Santoo
are so, I had not the opportunity of ascertaining. In
forming it advantage has apparently been taken of the
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226
APPENDIX.
line of the natural watercourses leading from the hills
to the river, but in many places the excavation must
have been a work of considerable labour. A small
branch of it, now blocked up and nearly filled up, passes
through the town of Chinkeang by means of water
gates.
The canal leading from the Yang-tse-keang to the
northward is a much larger and finer one. It has se-
veral very large branches communicating with the
river, besides numberless ramifications joining the
main channels. The main branch leading from Chin-
keang has its principal mouth about a mile above
Golden Island, with another smaller one directly op-
posite the west end of the town. The latter passes
through the old town of Quatchow, now nearly all in
ruins ; and from this town another small branch com-
municates with the river half a mile lower down. In
this neighbourhood the whole country to the northward
of the Yang-tse-keang is little if at all above the level
of the river, and is entirely laid out in paddy fields,
separated from the canals and ditches by embankments,
which form the only paths and roads. The main
branch of the canal is from 80 to 100 yards wide, with
a fine broad towing-path on the embankment separating
it from the paddy fields. It has five fathoms at its
entrance ; and from the junks sunk in it to form the
barrier being covered by the water, I imagine carries
its depth up as far as I went. Its course is north a
little easterly ; and about eight miles up there is a fine
pagoda called Sanshaho, where it is joined by another
large branch leading from E-ching-hien, a town on the
Yang-tse-keang, about 12 miles above Chinkeang. At
the point of junction it bends to the eastward for a
Digitized by Google
APPENDIX.
227
quarter of a mile, and then resumes it northerly course
to the large and rich town of Yang-chow-foo, three
miles above Sanshaho. Before turning to the north-
ward again it is, I believe, joined by a third large
branch, running into the Yang-tse-keang a mile below
Silver Island ; though I could not from the top of the
pagoda see the junction, nor was I at the time aware
of the existence of this branch. There is another
large opening in the north bank of the river below
Chinushau pagoda, which I think in all probability
communicates also with this canal. At Sanshaho both
the Chinkeang and E-ching branches were blocked up
by barriers formed of sunken junks and stakes ; and
near the turn to the eastward there was a third
barrier, which I imagine must have been at the junction
of the Silver Island branch. There is a considerable
village at Sanshaho, and a josshouse, now sadly gone
to decay, but showing the remains of great splendour,
and roofed with the Imperial yellow and green tiles.
At this time the river was evidently much above its
ordinary level, as not only were the peasants cutting
the paddy up to their middles in water, but many of
the villages and the houses in Quatchow, as well as the
courts of this josshouse, had water in them. From
what has been said above, it would require a large
force to establish an efficient blockade of the canal on
this side.
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